What did you do to your Spyder today?

[Cobranut]

Installed the pre-muffler delete, and moved the pegs from position 5 to 4.
I made up new linkages with aluminum hex and nylon lined heim joints. Now I can easily make fine adjustments to brake and shifter positions, and got rid of the slack in the original clevis joints.
Took her for a short test ride. No noticeable loss of torque, snapped the throttle open in second gear and lit up the tire pretty good. :thumbup:

Also ordered a BajaRon Ultra sway bar kit.

 

[Lew L]

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Test drove the :spyder2: with the insulated cat delete pipe (and stock muffler). Not loud, which is what I wanted. No loss of low-end power; and with the ECU flash, it seems to pull even a bit better. Happy camper here...

Lew L

 

[jchadwi]

Changed the oil and oil filter. Also collected an oil sample to send in for analysis. Then I installed LED headlights and fog lights from Lamonster as well as a cat delete pipe. BTW, the left fog light was fun to change!

 

[Kaemgen]

Added 180 degree wide-view rear view mirror to my F3-S that I purchased from Slingmods. Not intended for the F3-S as there's no great place to attach the suction cup attachment but as I do have a windshield on mine it seems to work attaching it there. Will test drive it under real world conditions tomorrow...

 

[ARNIE R]

Has anyone ever had to have accident damage repaired at a Can Am dealership or did you or the dealership have to sublet the repairs out somewhere else?

Allstate did a rough estimate of the repairs of the damage based upon some photos I sent in only

Of course, they requested that I select a location for repair, whether it is my area or somewhere near the Baltimore area, where the bike is currently being stored.

Being that the average body shop probably has no idea on the complexity of the Spyder’s structure, I am left ?? on what to do. Since there may be damage beyond the damaged body panels (suspension and frame) due to the fact that the right front wheel took all of the impact, I am concerned about that.

First, I have to contact my dealer tomorrow and see what they say...

 

[Deanna777]

Nothing, It is in hibernation until April.

( off topic, I am in between seasons motorcycle season is done until next April, I am just waiting for snow, and the snowmobile trails to open, so I can ride my sled).

Deanna

 

[dlwilliams48]

Attached wires to the battery so I can easily connect the battery tender. Of some concern though is that even though I have been riding it, the battery is indicating not even 80% charged - the BT starts to blink green when it is 80%. Even took it out for a nice 20 mile ride, still charging and not showing 80%. I'll see if it is fully charged in the morning. Seriously considering going ahead and replacing the battery.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Attached wires to the battery so I can easily connect the battery tender. Of some concern though is that even though I have been riding it, the battery is indicating not even 80% charged - the BT starts to blink green when it is 80%. Even took it out for a nice 20 mile ride, still charging and not showing 80%. I'll see if it is fully charged in the morning. Seriously considering going ahead and replacing the battery.

That sounds ominous! If your current battery is still the OEM battery, there's a good chance that it's one of the cheapie OEM units that BRP were installing due to supply issues; and if that's the case and you've had the Spyder for more than 6 months (so the battery warranty has expired! :sour: ) then I wouldn't bother waiting or doing any more charging &/or monitoring/testing!! You're most likely just :bdh:

So if it is still the original, then just bite the bullet - replace it now & avoid the angst plus any potential strandings! Only if you go AGM for your replacement, do make sure that you get a properly prepared (it takes some standing time for the electrolyte to be fully absorbed - IIRC it's an hour+ rather than minutes!) and fully charged (at least 8 hours on a proper charger, not just a tender!) battery of AT LEAST 350 CCA & 21 A/hr at 6hours!! Anything of less capacity (like the recent OEM batteries) or anything not properly prepared WILL mean you end up needing another new battery sooner than you really should! :banghead:

 

[dlwilliams48]

Yep, original battery. It did finally get up to full charge according to the lights on the Battery Tender, but I do plan to replace the battery ASAP. No sense waiting for it to fail, which it will probably do sooner rather than later. Not planning on an AGM right now.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Yep, original battery. It did finally get up to full charge according to the lights on the Battery Tender, but I do plan to replace the battery ASAP. No sense waiting for it to fail, which it will probably do sooner rather than later. Not planning on an AGM right now.

Gotta agree that your first bit, "...I do plan to replace the battery ASAP. ..." is a good one, but the 'normal' batteries for Spyders (& most motorcycles for that matter ) are AGM - the standard Spyder battery from the word go has been an AGM battery - usually a Yuasa 350 CCA 21 A/hr battery. It's only been in the last couple of years, maybe since about '22/'23, that BRP started providing cheaper, lesser capacity, 300 CCA off-brand AGM batteries direct from the factory, instead of the good quality Yuasa's, that sooo many more people have started having battery failures within the first few months/year or so.... :banghead:

So if you're getting a replacement battery, then you really DO want to be planning on getting at least an AGM battery; or if you are up for the extra cost for a battery & upgrading to appropriate charger/tender/maintainers, maybe you could spring for a good quality lithium-whatever battery upgrade instead?! :thumbup:

 

[dlwilliams48]

Gotta agree that your first bit, "...I do plan to replace the battery ASAP. ..." is a good one, but the 'normal' batteries for Spyders (& most motorcycles for that matter ) are AGM - the standard Spyder battery from the word go has been an AGM battery - usually a Yuasa 350 CCA 21 A/hr battery. It's only been in the last couple of years, maybe since about '22/'23, that BRP started providing cheaper, lesser capacity, 300 CCA off-brand AGM batteries direct from the factory, instead of the good quality Yuasa's, that sooo many more people have started having battery failures within the first few months/year or so.... :banghead:

So if you're getting a replacement battery, then you really DO want to be planning on getting at least an AGM battery; or if you are up for the extra cost for a battery & upgrading to appropriate charger/tender/maintainers, maybe you could spring for a good quality lithium-whatever battery upgrade instead?! :thumbup:

Thanks for that info. Just looking at the Battery Tender Plus that I just purchased, it will handle lead-acid, AGM and Gel batteries. About to leave for an extended trip (not on the Spyder, unfortunately) but I will look into replacing the battery when I return in late Nov. I'll do a search here on the forums for a Yausa number.

 

[Dansy]

Getting ready to store things for the winter, wax the spyder and the trailer will put the trailer on the storage stand…and install the cover, and pre-purchased Grizzly lift from Les accessories Spyder shop….for next season work on it….

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Has anyone ever had to have accident damage repaired at a Can Am dealership or did you or the dealership have to sublet the repairs out somewhere else?

Allstate did a rough estimate of the repairs of the damage based upon some photos I sent in only

Of course, they requested that I select a location for repair, whether it is my area or somewhere near the Baltimore area, where the bike is currently being stored.

Being that the average body shop probably has no idea on the complexity of the Spyder’s structure, I am left ?? on what to do. Since there may be damage beyond the damaged body panels (suspension and frame) due to the fact that the right front wheel took all of the impact, I am concerned about that.

First, I have to contact my dealer tomorrow and see what they say...

I have had a reframe done at Motomember in Purcellville, Va. There was a lack of updates from the service manager, and it took them almost 5 months to complete the repair as they totally ignored my F3 during the summer while they were assembling new sales to go out the door. They also ignored a lot of detail while re-assembling that I have had to correct. Missing and loose bolts, as well as wiring that was misrouted being the main 2 problems. Other issues were that it was really misaligned and Brooks powersports was able to correct this for me.

2nd repair was done by Diamond Motorsports in Delaware and the difference was night and day when they had to replace my swing arm assembly after getting rear ended on Rt. 13. I would highly recommend them and if you can get it there, I would go there for your repairs. They kept me up to date on the status of repairs, did it right and had my F3 back on the road in less than 2 months.

I would also dump Allstate after you get your repairs done and go with Progressive, they have a team of Adjusters that specialize in motorcycles and trikes, and you will have an Adjuster look at your vehicle in person.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Just got back in late yesterday from Raleigh, last ride of the year I think with the gauge spoiler on, time for the windshield to go on, it was chilly coming back from Raleigh yesterday. If you have not done the Back of the Dragon, I urge everyone to do it and give yourself more than 2 days like I did, I feel there was a lot I missed but that just gives me more to look at when I go back. I took a side trip off 81 on the way to go through Rockfish Gap and Goshen Pass. I only had 2 days and did the Bland Loop and the Back of the Dragon with a visit to Burke's Garden at sunset.

 

[Peter Aawen]

There's too many pics in your post for all to see them Clover - any more than 6 pics per post means some won't see them at all, and in this instance, I'm one of those who can't see any of the 8 attachments to your post above.

Any chance you could split out at least a couple of the pics you've posted up there ^ and put them in another post so that everyone can see them?? :dontknow:

Edit: I can see the 6 there now! hyea: Thanks Clover! :thumbup:

 

[Nomadblue]

I just installed the Show Chrome touring windshield on my 2023 F3 Limited; talk about night and day difference! Money well spent. I will get an updated picture.
Next project is installing the Baja Ron Ultra Sway Bar.

Hoping to get another ride or two in before hibernation.... Then the onset of the dreaded PMS - Parked Motorcycle Syndrome.

 

[ARNIE R]

I have had a reframe done at Motomember in Purcellville, Va. There was a lack of updates from the service manager, and it took them almost 5 months to complete the repair as they totally ignored my F3 during the summer while they were assembling new sales to go out the door. They also ignored a lot of detail while re-assembling that I have had to correct. Missing and loose bolts, as well as wiring that was misrouted being the main 2 problems. Other issues were that it was really misaligned and Brooks powersports was able to correct this for me.

2nd repair was done by Diamond Motorsports in Delaware and the difference was night and day when they had to replace my swing arm assembly after getting rear ended on Rt. 13. I would highly recommend them and if you can get it there, I would go there for your repairs. They kept me up to date on the status of repairs, did it right and had my F3 back on the road in less than 2 months.

I would also dump Allstate after you get your repairs done and go with Progressive, they have a team of Adjusters that specialize in motorcycles and trikes, and you will have an Adjuster look at your vehicle in person.

Unfortunately, Motomember in Purcellville is where it will going next week as they are only 10 miles from my home. Yes, I have my doubts on it being fixed correctly due to past visits for assorted service work. Only location I could find due to distances and issues getting it out of Baltimore. Thanks for the heads-up - I still have a week to decide.

 

[hut1]

Unfortunately, Motomember in Purcellville is where it will going next week as they are only 10 miles from my home. Yes, I have my doubts on it being fixed correctly due to past visits for assorted service work. Only location I could find due to distances and issues getting it out of Baltimore. Thanks for the heads-up - I still have a week to decide.

Have you checked into Pete's Cycle in Baltimore? I can't vouch for their service, but they are one of the largest dealers in the area. Also, I agree with CHC. Diamond Motorsports in Dover, DE is my home dealer and I recommend them highly. They're the only dealer on Delmarva, so their prices aren't always that competitive, but their service and repair has always been top notch for me.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Unfortunately, Motomember in Purcellville is where it will going next week as they are only 10 miles from my home. Yes, I have my doubts on it being fixed correctly due to past visits for assorted service work. Only location I could find due to distances and issues getting it out of Baltimore. Thanks for the heads-up - I still have a week to decide.

Sorry to hear this and I hate to use the word unfortunately again in this exchange but I see in your signature that your ST-S is a 2014 and you are at that 10 year mark so they may choose not to work on it at all.

If that mount for the a arm is bent, that is all it takes to require a reframe. When I got ran off the road, the right wheel locked against the curb and pulled it into the side of my F3 and bent the mount otherwise everything else was OK but that was all it took to require the re-frame. And visually I had less damage than you have.



It ended up being almost $12K to repair at which progressive was going to total it at first until I sent them my purchase invoice with my accessories which raised up the amount of reimbursement enough that the repair qualified for coverage without being totaled.

If the dealership chooses to work on a 2014 the estimate may be high enough that they will total it. Just pray that the a-arm mount on the frame is not bent.

 

[Lee0123]

We picked up the bike from the shop after having the dynamic power steering unit replaced under warranty. We've had intermittent "Check DPS" error messages since day one on the bike ride home from the dealer. We have made monthly visits to the shop during the riding season. It was a difficult problem to trace. The DPS fault causes other error messages to occur; VSS fault, Limp Home Mode, etc. They changed the battery several times as well as checking all electrical connections and grounding points. The dealer convinced BRP that the unit needed to be replaced. Hopefully this will finally get rid of this recurring problem. Total miles ridden for the day 15.