Fuse Block Receptacle pushed in. Suggestions?

[Kickthefog]

Hi Everyone,

On my 2014 RT, I removed the relay for my reverse circuit (Transmission). I did a MORON job of putting it back in. When I did, somehow I managed to push the contacts or connectors into the fuse block housing so now there is nothing for the relay to plug into. (See picture). The upper left blank spot is the issue. I removed the relay to the right of the blank spot to show what a good spot looks like.

I'd like to fix this myself if I can but I don't know if that whole fuse block can come out easily so I can see and get behind it or inside it or not. I thought about calling the dealer and letting them work on it but I'm afraid of the $$ involved. If I must, I must, but looking for any alternate ideas if there are any.

Thanks for any thoughts on the issue.

Pat

 

[Mikey]

I would say you're facing a job of rolling you're sleeves up and diving into the deep end of the pool! Maybe you got lucky and just unhooked the tabs on the back of that relay socket, maybe!! But you're not going to know that till you get eyes on it. When I am playing with those type of things a dab of dielectric grease is your friend! Good Luck!! Let us know how you made out!

 

[WRCLVR]

If you have an inspection camera, you might be able to feed it behind for a look...it would need about 1/2 in space to push thru...

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Before you move anything around make sure to disconnect the battery so you don't short anything out.

Things are out of place and you don't want them to touch together while they are hot.

 

[Kickthefog]

Mikey: Yeah, I was just hoping for some insight as to how I can get behind there or even if that fuse block is removable at all somehow since when I go in without a solid plan, I tend to make matters worse. Case and point: All I had to do was check a relay, and I even messed THAT UP! I guess it's time for the old folks home for me.

WRCLVR: good idea about the inspection camera. I do have one. I'll look around for an access point! Thanks!

CloverHillCrawler: Good point! I will disconnect the battery. Thanks

 

[Bfromla]

:agree: :lecturef_smilie: disconnect the Battery & good luck! Those types are supposed to have barbs to dig into the plastic to help keep them in place. So either the barb broke off or the plastic gouged. Hopefully, the wires didn’t completely come out & you can see their proper placement.

 

[Kickthefog]

:agree::lecturef_smilie:disconnect Battery & good luck those type suppose to have barbs dig into plastic help keep in place. So either barb broke off or plastic gouged. Hopefully wires didn’t completely come out & you can see proper placement.

Oh ok. Good to know. Thanks. That would be awesome if it just came unclipped! Doubt I'll be that lucky but fingers crossed.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Oh ok. Good to know. Thanks. That would be awesome if it just came unclipped! Doubt I'll be that lucky but fingers crossed.

I would look at a FICHE for this part and see what other parts are involved ...... maybe it will help .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Jetfixer]

The safest thing to do would be to remove the frunk. It's not really that involved. There are 4 bolts on top, and 2 on the underside that need to be removed. If I remember correctly on your year, there are 4 electrical plugs to disconnect. On the left side, remove the clamp for the air intake tube at the air box. Disconnect the frunk latch cable. The entire frunk assembly is actually hanging on a channel at the top. It weighs about 30-40 pounds. Lift the frunk off that channel, slide it forward about an inch to make sure you've got all the disconnects, then remove it. You'll be able to access the rear of the fuse blocks now. You should be able to reposition the block that's pushed back. Then reverse the whole procedure to re-install the frunk.

 

[Navydad]

The safest thing to do would be to remove the frunk. It's not really that involved. There are 4 bolts on top, and 2 on the underside that need to be removed. If I remember correctly on your year, there are 4 electrical plugs to disconnect. On the left side, remove the clamp for the air intake tube at the air box. Disconnect the frunk latch cable. The entire frunk assembly is actually hanging on a channel at the top. It weighs about 30-40 pounds. Lift the frunk off that channel, slide it forward about an inch to make sure you've got all the disconnects, then remove it. You'll be able to access the rear of the fuse blocks now. You should be able to reposition the block that's pushed back. Then reverse the whole procedure to re-install the frunk.

I agree with this. Trying to just remove the block won't work. The wiring going to those blocks is securely tied and also not long enough to allow you to move the block very much at all. Another issue with moving the block is the wires that are pulled out. If you move the block enough to completely dislodge the wires do you know where each wire went? There is a good chance the wires just pushed back and didn't completely dislodge from the block. Removing the frunk as described above will allow access without further dislodging the wires if done carefully. When pushing the wires back in you may feel a slight "click" as they lock into place. If they don't lock into place you may have to adjust the very small and delicate catch on the metal connector. Go easy, it doesn't take much.