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Cat Delete Pipe Recommendations?

I just installed the RLS Mid-pipe, black ceramic coated for heat reduction.
I installed the baffle at the inlet, for back pressure/low end torque retention.

I've found over several brand and models of bikes, that the back pressure is more important that the wide open/loud exhaust.
Even tuned, unless it's a built up motor, an open exhaust costs you torque.
Since my Spyder RTL will be mostly 2-up, torque is the most valuable asset.

I did do the 15-minute idle, 15-minute cool down. Then took her out and pushed her. Not super hard, she's only got 300 miles.
I noticed better pull/torque off the line, hit 55mph in 2nd easily, and moving up the gears. The girl friend rode it next and we traded out 2-up, she also noticed better pull. I was told that we could be heard riding back into my sub-division.

It's not super loud, but has a deeper, throater sound.
I used an SPL meter before and after; the decibel level actually went down on average.

start/idle/rev, measured from the rider's seat.
79.2bd avg/87.8bd max - Stock
78.4db avg/87.8bd max - RLS mid-pipe with baffle


Hope this is helpful.
I may in the future get one of the RLS Torpedo mufflers.
8-)
 
While not having an RLS bypass or a baffle in our bypass pipe, if yours acts like ours, put some miles on it, and the performance and exhaust note will change.

As for the baffle, for it to be optimized, I believe the location can matter based on the exhaust's resonance wave. Then again maybe not so much. I do know that the OEM muffler on our 2014 is not mechanically restricting flow, but it does utilize multiple chambers, similar to but different from a Flowmaster style muffler.
 
Oh, a tip for installing the springs.

Pulling the springs was easy enough.
But installing the springs with limited use of my Left arm, I could only get one spring on.
I figured out that wrapping a rachet strap around the back tire and using that to pull on the spring installer and then pulling the spring end towards the hook and releasing the ratch, made it much easier.

Hope this helps
 
Oh, a tip for installing the springs.

Pulling the springs was easy enough.
But installing the springs with limited use of my Left arm, I could only get one spring on.
I figured out that wrapping a rachet strap around the back tire and using that to pull on the spring installer and then pulling the spring end towards the hook and releasing the ratch, made it much easier.

Hope this helps

This is what I did. A small piece of rope with a trucker's hitch helped a lot. Still had to pull on the spring tool, but much less effort.
 
A cat delete eliminates a considerable amount of heat. That's a given. As for increased power and MPG, no one has proven that. That I know of anyway. Sound, yea, lots of folks have noticed a little louder and lower tone. Reports of a baffle in or out of the cat delete will change the low RPM torque and or the high RPM torque. Other reports say that the ECM continually adjusts itself to control any modification to remain at stock performance. I tend to go along with that theory. So, the only thing that really seems to change with a cat delete, is the loss of some heat and a change of exhaust sound.

And a few less dollars in the pocket.
 
A cat delete eliminates a considerable amount of heat. That's a given. As for increased power and MPG, no one has proven that. That I know of anyway. Sound, yea, lots of folks have noticed a little louder and lower tone. Reports of a baffle in or out of the cat delete will change the low RPM torque and or the high RPM torque. Other reports say that the ECM continually adjusts itself to control any modification to remain at stock performance. I tend to go along with that theory. So, the only thing that really seems to change with a cat delete, is the loss of some heat and a change of exhaust sound.

I'm doing it because of the heat issue and because it's recommended for maximizing the benefit of a stage 2 ECU flash.

But the heat issue alone is worth it in today's extreme climate, I think.
 
Where I live the roadsides are frequently covered with grass - dry grass at this time of year. That was a consideration when I removed my cat, since I do occasionally have to pull off the pavement. Besides the reduction in perceived heat for the riders, reducing the chance of starting a fire is important. One good grass fire will put more contaminants in the air than my Spyder will during it's entire life. Not to mention what a burning Spyder would put in the air.
 
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Where I live the roadsides are frequently covered with grass - dry grass at this time of year. That was a consideration when I removed my cat, since I do occasionally have to pull off the pavement. Besides the reduction in perceived heat for the riders, reducing the chance of starting a fire is important. One good grass fire will put more contaminants in the air than my Spyder will during it's entire life. Not to mention what a burning Spyder would put in the air.

That's a real good point. I've wrapped the cat delete pipe in fiberglass wrap for even greater heat reduction.
 
That's a real good point. I've wrapped the cat delete pipe in fiberglass wrap for even greater heat reduction.

Which fiberglass wrap? If you don't mind me asking... I just got my cat delete pipe in and was thinking about it.... Thanks in Advance!
 
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Where I live the roadsides are frequently covered with grass - dry grass at this time of year. That was a consideration when I removed my cat, since I do occasionally have to pull off the pavement. Besides the reduction in perceived heat for the riders, reducing the chance of starting a fire is important. One good grass fire will put more contaminants in the air than my Spyder will during it's entire life. Not to mention what a burning Spyder would put in the air.

I have to confess that I left some dark almost black, dry grass after pulling off a rural road for a quick pitstop. Now dry grass is the second thing I look for when deciding where to park my ride.
 
I've lost ~1.5mpg with my RLS and no baffle. No detectable change in power or torque. If the springs weren't such a pain, I'd put the baffle into the RLS. The riding sound is fine, but if you rev it up in the driveway, it rasps like one of the tinny little rice-burner cars.
Try slipping the baffle into the other end. I don't think it cares which end the baffle is in as long as it fits.
 
Aside from engine, exhaust, ECU, and external modifications, MPG gain or loss however you look at it is pretty much related to the twist of the wrist.
I agree on the wrist twist!! That is the reason I don't discuss MPG. My MPG has always been lower than most folks on any Forum I have ever been on. I don't have a bike for the MPG, I have a bike for fun. I check MPG as part of keeping an eye on potential problems only.
 
When I installed my cat delete (from Lamonster) I was surprised to discover how heavy the catalytic converter was. So, a small saving in weight as well as the other benefits. I used the baffle and original muffler and have been pleased with the small resultant burble.
 
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