Have you had an ECU Flash? How long did it take? Any good?

[_..stiffler..]

does anyone have the flash with the new 2018 F3 Limited Gauge??

if I bring my spyder in for a gauge update with it erase my ecu flash? anyone know anything about this?

thanks

Stiff

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

If this has been asked and answered already I apologize for asking again.

What is the turn around time on getting a flash done?

 

[308gunner]

If this has been asked and answered already I apologize for asking again.

What is the turn around time on getting a flash done?

one week max..the time depends on how you want to ship it...I did mine fed-ex overnight both ways.

 

[308gunner]

does anyone have the flash with the new 2018 F3 Limited Gauge??

if I bring my spyder in for a gauge update with it erase my ecu flash? anyone know anything about this?

thanks

Stiff

it shouldn`t...but... thats a good question...call wick-it performance..to confirm it.

 

[Jetfixer]

If this has been asked and answered already I apologize for asking again.

What is the turn around time on getting a flash done?

Mine arrives at Wick-It Performance tomorrow. They said 24 hour turn-around time. If you pre-pay, their site charges USPS return postage. I sent mine Fedex. It's supposed to be delivered tomorrow by 10:30 am. I'm hoping they can flash it and get it out in the mail same day. If so, I could have it back by the weekend.

 

[308gunner]

Mine arrives at Wick-It Performance tomorrow. They said 24 hour turn-around time. If you pre-pay, their site charges USPS return postage. I sent mine Fedex. It's supposed to be delivered tomorrow by 10:30 am. I'm hoping they can flash it and get it out in the mail same day. If so, I could have it back by the weekend.

Please post a review when you get it back..whether you purchased the stage I or II, your spyder is going to come alive...I got the stage II ..you`re going to love it!!!

 

[308gunner]

ECU RE-MAPP RACING NEWS:
I have exciting news this thursday I will be Testing/Racing the F-3 Stage II Sport at the 1/8th mile dragstrip....BUT..... here`s the twist ..I will be racing a spyder F-3 sport that ALSO has a stage II remap done to it...a true timed drag race in which BOTH spyders have true performance upgrades..as far as I know, this has not happened before. this is going to be good...Stay Tuned!!!!

 

[EricP]

ECU RE-MAPP RACING NEWS:
I have exciting news this thursday I will be Testing/Racing the F-3 Stage II Sport at the 1/8th mile dragstrip....BUT..... here`s the twist ..I will be racing a spyder F-3 sport that ALSO has a stage II remap done to it...a true timed drag race in which BOTH spyders have true performance upgrades..as far as I know, this has not happened before. this is going to be good...Stay Tuned!!!!

Subscribed to thread...opcorn:
Please keep us posted, sir.

 

[smokster]

Well.....how was the race????

 

[SmoovOpRatoR]

Hey folks, do any of these ECU flashes allow traction control to be turned off or at least turned down a bit? I seem to recall that some of the 2017 models had the ability to turn traction control off and you could do donuts etc (Daytona Model perhaps?). I currently have a 2015 F3-S that I would like to flash.

 

[Spyd_Piper]

I was hoping Dennis would see this and post the pic he sent me of his that he just got back from Monster. Here it is. Nothing to write home about for sure. With the size and placement of the holes I see only hotter engine bay air and questionable flow gains, but time and testing will tell.... Dennis is weather locked at the moment but is contemplating a "trip" to warmer weather to do his testing. 308gunner has received his as well as is testing I believe....
View attachment 168554View attachment 168555

2 things you overlook. Or not quite grasping.

1:
This isn't an enclosed engine compartment. But doesn't even matter.
A 1330cc engine at a volumetric efficiency of 100% moves 1.33L of air for every cycle. At say 6000rpm, this is 3000 times per minute or 50 times per second.
50 x 1.33 litres every second is 66.5 litres of air EVERY single second at wot.
Note: As rpm is increased or the VE of a good engine can reach 110-115%, this could be up to 92 litres of air movement - EVERY SECOND.

= whatever hot air is in the small engine compartment has been sucked up, spit out and replaced with fresh cold air in under 1 second at wide open throttle. (as engine compartment air is moved, atmospheric pressure pushes new fresh cold air in within fractions of a second.

2:
A 1.5 inch / 38.1mm hole over a 0.5psi pressure drop will flow 176 cfm, which is 2.93 cf per second.
Two of these holes allows an extra 6 cubic feet of air, every second.

The holes are to provide both colder air and more air, when needed. This is the biggest that the lid can be opened up. Its also a cheap $20 part if a user was to ever return bike to stock.


A third effect is at all rpm and throttle positions. The complete plastic intake itself is heated by the engine and exhaust during partial throttle riding. This heat transfers to the air, heating up and incoming air. At low rpm all the air in the intake system is not used every combustion event. So the air sits and is allowed to absorb heat. However, with new inlets, the new closer to air filter holes allow cooler air intake quicker, thus the engine intakes colder air even at partial throttle.
On an F3, the holes in the air filter lid are 4 inches from the top air entry from direct outside air. Not engine compartment.

 

[Spyd_Piper]

For the record,
Stage 2 is not just random holes in an airbox. It is complete different ecu mapping.
The difference in fuel is important but partial.
The colder air intake temps along with running the fan lower allow programming different air temp torque limiters along with engine temp torque limiters.
Colder engine and air intake give higher headroom towards detonation. Therefore more ignition timing can be safely utilized. Then also less knock reduction can be utilized as well. The overall engine engine mapping for throttle, many different torque limiters, exhaust temp modelling, ignition timing, knock control is all optimized differently.


The worse people can do is misinterpret the stage tuning difference. Do not add air inlets to stage 1 tuning. And do not run stage 2 tuning without the airbox modification. Things are designed, developed and sold in ways for a reason.

Stage 1 tuning is for 91 octane (or can use 93-94) but I allow the use of 87 octane in an emergency. Just - Do not lug engine. Do shift gears fast, keep rpms high. And keep throttle below 50%. Finish your ride or get home and put 91 back in tank. And once you clear out old 87 fuel and are sure its fresh 91 again, then have at it again.

Stage 2 is for 91 octane, and 93-94 and will notice benefits. Its premium only. Never use 87 octane.

 

[Hypurone]

2 things you overlook. Or not quite grasping.

Not overlooking or failing to grasp anything. My automotive knowledge and experiences are quite vast and I have concerns that need to see the data in real world, long term testing .... Especially when it comes to engine timing modifications....

 

[Jetfixer]

For the record,
Stage 2 is not just random holes in an airbox. It is complete different ecu mapping.
The difference in fuel is important but partial.
The colder air intake temps along with running the fan lower allow programming different air temp torque limiters along with engine temp torque limiters.
Colder engine and air intake give higher headroom towards detonation. Therefore more ignition timing can be safely utilized. Then also less knock reduction can be utilized as well. The overall engine engine mapping for throttle, many different torque limiters, exhaust temp modelling, ignition timing, knock control is all optimized differently.


The worse people can do is misinterpret the stage tuning difference. Do not add air inlets to stage 1 tuning. And do not run stage 2 tuning without the airbox modification. Things are designed, developed and sold in ways for a reason.

Stage 1 tuning is for 91 octane (or can use 93-94) but I allow the use of 87 octane in an emergency. Just - Do not lug engine. Do shift gears fast, keep rpms high. And keep throttle below 50%. Finish your ride or get home and put 91 back in tank. And once you clear out old 87 fuel and are sure its fresh 91 again, then have at it again.

Stage 2 is for 91 octane, and 93-94 and will notice benefits. Its premium only. Never use 87 octane.

My ECU is supposed to be returned to me tomorrow after Stage 1 flash at Wick-It. Have you done any testing using non-ethanol gas versus the 10% ethanol that is (almost) mandatory in the States? Prior to flashing, I've used almost exclusively 89 octane non-ethanol fuel and never noticed any problems. When traveling and non-ethanol was not available, I've always used 93 octane with 10% ethanol. Again, no perceived benefits or problems. Since I have both fuels available to me, what is your opinion on using the 89 octane non-ethanol with the stage 1 flash? Would you still recommend to avoid it? Thanks!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

2 things you overlook. Or not quite grasping.

1:
This isn't an enclosed engine compartment. But doesn't even matter.
A 1330cc engine at a volumetric efficiency of 100% moves 1.33L of air for every cycle. At say 6000rpm, this is 3000 times per minute or 50 times per second.
50 x 1.33 litres every second is 66.5 litres of air EVERY single second at wot.
Note: As rpm is increased or the VE of a good engine can reach 110-115%, this could be up to 92 litres of air movement - EVERY SECOND.
I have removed my long plastic Air Intake ( 2014 RT ) and the restricting slots at the front end could not imho ever allow 66.5 litres of air EVERY SECOND …..
= whatever hot air is in the small engine compartment has been sucked up, spit out and replaced with fresh cold air in under 1 second at wide open throttle. (as engine compartment air is moved, atmospheric pressure pushes new fresh cold air in within fractions of a second.
… …. I saw the three holes in the top of the Air Box ….where is the COLD AIR coming from - - not from under the Tupperware ….check my album page for a PIC of my Air Intake - 3 inch diameter straight shot from OUTSIDE the Tupperware.
2:
A 1.5 inch / 38.1mm hole over a 0.5psi pressure drop will flow 176 cfm, which is 2.93 cf per second.
Two of these holes allows an extra 6 cubic feet of air, every second.

The holes are to provide both colder air and more air, when needed. This is the biggest that the lid can be opened up. Its also a cheap $20 part if a user was to ever return bike to stock.
….again - where is the COLD air coming from …..

A third effect is at all rpm and throttle positions. The complete plastic intake itself is heated by the engine and exhaust during partial throttle riding. This heat transfers to the air, heating up and incoming air. At low rpm all the air in the intake system is not used every combustion event. So the air sits and is allowed to absorb heat. However, with new inlets, the new closer to air filter holes allow cooler air intake quicker, thus the engine intakes colder air even at partial throttle.
On an F3, the holes in the air filter lid are 4 inches from the top air entry from direct outside air. Not engine compartment.

See my responses in BLUE above ………. Mike :thumbup:

 

[Hypurone]

For those thinking I am here just to bash, I'm not! I have the Stage 1 flash already and it took real data from Dennis to provide me with concrete evidence that it was worth doing and was safely implemented and for long term use.

That said, I am not saying the Stage 2 isn't giving results. I am doubting the "effectiveness" of the air filter lid mod and have concerns about the timing changes when relying solely on running the fans to lower ECT vs a thermostat change/plus the fans as the two will fight each other otherwise. And the potential fallout if the ECT isn't safely/properly managed (IE: the fans fail or radiators clog etc) and the knock-sensor/ECM can't pull enough timing to avoid detonation?

I just need to see some data and under what conditions (temps/loads etc) this was tested under. Cuz remember folks, this kind of thing is solely the responsibility of the end user in the event there is any damage incurred....

 

[SNOOPY]

Good info here. I take it most of you guys commenting have the 1330 motor?

Like to see more results on the 998.

 

[308gunner]

I went drag racing with the stage II with the F-3 with friend who ALSO has a stage II on his so it's an equal race...with video and timeslips..all I can say is...the stage II is no joke..the difference between the stage I and II is that the stage II is the bottom end torque...it rips...power off the line...that in opinion..is where the Spyder was lacking ...the top end was resolved on stage I...the bottom was improved too...but the stage II .. enhances the bottom end torque power...my results are on Spyder lovers on Facebook...just look for it..

 

[308gunner]

Well.....how was the race????

I pm you

 

[Peter Aawen]

Any chance those of us who don't do facebook could get to see the results/video/timeslips too? :dontknow: