• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Have you had an ECU Flash? How long did it take? Any good?

Today, I sent in the ECU and airbox lid in to be upgraded to a re-map stage II. I already have the race data for stock and Stage I. now for the next step...
Cool! Dennis is also in the process of testing the Stage II Flash and looking forward to both your data sets....
 
Today, I sent in the ECU and airbox lid in to be upgraded to a re-map stage II. I already have the race data for stock and Stage I. now for the next step...

......and that’s where I believe the ECU upgrades contain so much value, gunner. They give YOU better measurable times on the drag strip, and ME, crisper, balanced performance when touring. The stage 2 upgrade will certainly be done on any new Spyder I buy.:thumbup:

Pete
 
Why the air box lid ?

:agree: …. I'd love to see a Pic of what they did …. The Air box that encloses the filter has a long plastic intake that opens above the radiator air scoop. I removed that plastic intake for others reasons, but when I did I could see how small the air slots were. I'm very old school in my feelings about opening any Air Intake to allow easier breathing ( remember the Shaker hoods on cars )…. I also removed the rubber elbow which left a 3 inch Hole in the Air Box.… I connected a 3 in. metal tube that goes thru the left side panel ( see my albums for a pic ) ….. Better breathing was the goal, and I achieved that, however if the ECU isn't re-mapped not much change can occur because the Oem ECU in it's design will adjust to any breathing improvements you make. Either to the Intake Air or the Exhaust …… Mike :thumbup:
 
:agree: …. I'd love to see a Pic of what they did …. The Air box that encloses the filter has a long plastic intake that opens above the radiator air scoop. I removed that plastic intake for others reasons, but when I did I could see how small the air slots were. I'm very old school in my feelings about opening any Air Intake to allow easier breathing ( remember the Shaker hoods on cars )…. I also removed the rubber elbow which left a 3 inch Hole in the Air Box.… I connected a 3 in. metal tube that goes thru the left side panel ( see my albums for a pic ) ….. Better breathing was the goal, and I achieved that, however if the ECU isn't re-mapped not much change can occur because the Oem ECU in it's design will adjust to any breathing improvements you make. Either to the Intake Air or the Exhaust …… Mike :thumbup:


I removed my whole factory air intake/cleaner years ago. I would assume when I have a remap I would simply tell them that and they can put it in their equation.


Would like to know what they are doing to the factory cover though.

.
 
I removed my whole factory air intake/cleaner years ago. I would assume when I have a remap I would simply tell them that and they can put it in their equation.


Would like to know what they are doing to the factory cover though.

.

:agree: and would like to see their set-up …...as I said above I just modified the OEM hole left by removing the factory ELBOE …. the 3in connecting pipe I used is cut in half so my FRUNK just slides on and off with no problem...… I did mine back in the winter of 2014 ….. Mike :thumbup:
 
I removed my whole factory air intake/cleaner years ago. I would assume when I have a remap I would simply tell them that and they can put it in their equation.


Would like to know what they are doing to the factory cover though.

.

I was hoping Dennis would see this and post the pic he sent me of his that he just got back from Monster. Here it is. Nothing to write home about for sure. With the size and placement of the holes I see only hotter engine bay air and questionable flow gains, but time and testing will tell.... Dennis is weather locked at the moment but is contemplating a "trip" to warmer weather to do his testing. 308gunner has received his as well as is testing I believe....
6491_1547392402134.jpg6492_1547392402451.jpg
 
I was hoping Dennis would see this and post the pic he sent me of his that he just got back from Monster. Here it is. Nothing to write home about for sure. With the size and placement of the holes I see only hotter engine bay air and questionable flow gains, but time and testing will tell.... Dennis is weather locked at the moment but is contemplating a "trip" to warmer weather to do his testing. 308gunner has received his as well as is testing I believe....
View attachment 168554View attachment 168555

The holes are roughly 1 3/8 ". When my lid is on I'm barely able to insert my fingers in the holes as the air filter top blocks 70% of the hole openings. Hard to see in the assembled pic. I have been showed some dyno runs. Stock, vs. stage one, vs. stage two. Off idle to red line, Stage one has about 20% gain over stock. Stage two vs. stage one has the two hp graphs separating around 4,500 rpm and only modestly over the stage one to red line. All dynos seem to read different. There is some big gains in torque but neither Hyperone or I can figure out if the biggest torque gain for stage two is the highest torque reading. It's a really piss poor e-mail pic of the test. Here is what I see on this Dyno. Stock Daytona around 98 hp at the real wheel? Stage One around 118 hp and Stage two around 122 hp.
I was asked not to show the Dyno test as they will be up on the Monster fuel site soon.
Maybe Hyperone has had a chance to better dissect the torque charts but it shows some pretty serious torque gains happening.
Dennis
 
ECU pulled ( EZ) and boxed, ready for shipment. I'm doing a stage 1 flash with a slight RPM increase and the instant start feature.

Any advice is appriciated.
Lew L
 
Yes that is correct if I understand what instant start means. I'm calling them tomorrow to let them know the ECU is on its way.
It's an option on the website where you fill out the list of options.

Lew L
 
Yes that is correct if I understand what instant start means. I'm calling them tomorrow to let them know the ECU is on its way.
It's an option on the website where you fill out the list of options.

Lew L

You are correct. you can start it without hitting the eco mode button...instant start.
 
Instant start?

Do you mean you don’t have to wait for the message?

Turn the key and start the bike. There is still a slight delay before you see the screen but it starts right away.
BTW, more current Spyders allow you to turn the key and immediately press the ECO button which allows an instant start before the screen powers up. Give it a try to see if you already have this feature? My 2016 F3L allowed me to do that before the flash.
Dennis
 
I was hoping Dennis would see this and post the pic he sent me of his that he just got back from Monster. Here it is. Nothing to write home about for sure. With the size and placement of the holes I see only hotter engine bay air and questionable flow gains, but time and testing will tell.... Dennis is weather locked at the moment but is contemplating a "trip" to warmer weather to do his testing. 308gunner has received his as well as is testing I believe....
View attachment 168554View attachment 168555

:agree: with your assessment of what is going to occur with the Hot Air …. IMHO, if you just dis-connected the long plastic air intake and left the Elboe on you would be much better off ….. the incoming Air would be a lot cooler …………. Of course I think mine is better because it's more free flowing and much , much cooler being the air is coming from outside the body …… I'm planning on doing the flash this winter and will send pics of mine to Monster for the flash ……….. Mike :thumbup:
 
Turn the key and start the bike. There is still a slight delay before you see the screen but it starts right away.
BTW, more current Spyders allow you to turn the key and immediately press the ECO button which allows an instant start before the screen powers up. Give it a try to see if you already have this feature? My 2016 F3L allowed me to do that before the flash.
Dennis

I have a 2013 STS, no eco button.

And the form on their site still shows an error for me, can you guys see the form on your mobile device (iPad) or are you using a PC?
 
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