• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Garage Door Opener

bradr

New member
Factory Looking Garage Door Opener Install

IMG_20170524_173117612.jpg

I wanted to add a garage door opener to my bike that looked factory and did not involve cutting or splicing. After adding the factory fog lights and heated hand grips, my 2013 STS had one empty spot where other models have the switch for the suspension control. I decided to use that switch location for a garage door opener. This is very much like the kit from Mo-Door, but the switch in their kit does no have a legend and is not lit like the factory switches. This mod can be used with their kit or with your own garage door opener.

The switches used are Carling Contura V switches. You can not purchase one in single quantities with the proper configuration of positions, lighting and lens. Because they are modular (the switch base, top and actuator are all interchangeable) you can assemble exactly what you need. It required purchasing the following (more detail and part number to come):

Switch Body ($13.90)


Switch Actuator ($0.98)
  • Carling part number VVA9C00-000
  • Single Clear Lens (Dual Clear Lens only available as a large custom production run)

Switch Connector Body ($0.89)



Switch Connector Terminals ($0.31/ea)

Spyder Switch (Any with the proper amber or blue lighting will work)
  • Cannibalized for the top half with the LED. The amber LEDs used in the can-am switches (on the ST) are different than the readily available amber lit Carling switches.

I simply soldered wires to a garage door opener I had on hand and attached them to the proper spots on the switch. I then added wires to extend the illumination terminals to the illumination contacts on the unused suspension switch connector on the bike. You could also de-pin them from the bike connector and slide them in to the connector I purchased for the new switch. I then used a label printer to create a sticker (black print on clear) to put over the lens for the legend (icon).

Operation
Pressing the switch up opens/closes garage door 1. Pressing the switch down opens/closes garage door 2. Switch automatically springs back to the center position. The switch is lit whenever the ignition is on (like the other switches). Looks about as factory as you can get without a custom run of switches with two lenses and a better legend/icon.


IMG_20170521_190519801.jpg

IMG_20170521_193547098.jpg

IMG_20170521_194347391.jpg
 
Last edited:
Garage door opener

Very well done. Looks factory installed.
I did the same mod for my garage opener with a non-lighted Carling switch.
 
Assuming that you still have to keep a working battery in it: where did you hide the garage door opener? :thumbup:

I put it right on the frame below the switches under the plastic cover. The cover take about 30 seconds to remove making battery replacement easy. I plan on ordering a small voltage regulator to power it from switched power on the bike at the switch connector rather than the battery. This will eliminate battery changes and cause it to only work when the key is on.
 
mo-door now makes switches for spyders

Not trying to take anything away from what you did. Some of us (me) don't want to have to piece together a bunch of stuff. The "can-am spyder factory switch is the rocker switch which I don't want for my F3. I'm thinking maybe I can place the "factory indian" switch somehwere?

http://www.mo-door.com/Factory_OEM_Switches.html
 
Looks nice!! I thought about doing that, but opted for a keychain model for my garage. I have to stop and open the gate anyway so...
 
Not trying to take anything away from what you did. Some of us (me) don't want to have to piece together a bunch of stuff.

You are correct - most will not want to go as far as I did. This post was not to pat myself on the back. Rather it was to try and repay the forum as best I can for all I have learned from other members.
 
Garage door opener

I put it right on the frame below the switches under the plastic cover. The cover take about 30 seconds to remove making battery replacement easy. I plan on ordering a small voltage regulator to power it from switched power on the bike at the switch connector rather than the battery. This will eliminate battery changes and cause it to only work when the key is on.

Great idea - please post details of the voltage regulator to power the opener.
 
Back
Top