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drive belt now centerd

irvin48

New member
lots of people have said have a cr cards width between drive belt
and sprocket flange. after my alignment it was that way for a week.
it is now an 1/8 inch away, and pretty much centered. dealer says its fine.
is it ok with the forum gurus ? :bowdown:
thank you in advance.

View attachment 136320
 
BELT POSITION

It better be ..........because mine has moved every time I've looked at ( which is every time I get off :roflblack: ) ....Mike :thumbup:
 
It better be ..........because mine has moved every time I've looked at ( which is every time I get off :roflblack: ) ....Mike :thumbup:
If you to really see something scary: have somebody back your bike up, while you watch the belt move around... :shocked:

You'll need to sit down for a little while; after you see it! nojoke
 
lots of people have said have a cr cards width between drive belt
and sprocket flange. after my alignment it was that way for a week.
it is now an 1/8 inch away, and pretty much centered. dealer says its fine.

Your owners manual gives the specifications. For the 2013 RT, it was from 1-5mm. Yours is about 3mm now.
 
If you to really see something scary: have somebody back your bike up, while you watch the belt move around... :shocked:

You'll need to sit down for a little while; after you see it! nojoke

maybe they need an outside flange, too :)
i thought these were built with perfection in mind.
like im gonna stick my head back there and let someone back
over me. too many people want to.
 
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Stick to the spec's

It is better to have it stay within spec's when rolling forward 1 to 5mm cause usually when rolling back it will walk to the outside. Where you have it now you may see part of the belt hang off the sproket when backing up....:dontknow:
 
It is better to have it stay within spec's when rolling forward 1 to 5mm cause usually when rolling back it will walk to the outside. Where you have it now you may see part of the belt hang off the sproket when backing up....:dontknow:

It should never hang off the sprocket.
 
Is belt tracking DIY capable?

Looks like the dealer wrench messed up yet another item. There is zero clearance between the belt and sprocket flange on my bike. I can't see the inboard edge of the belt to check for scrubbing, but I suspect that there is some wear.

1472009741493-269470796.jpg
 
You hafta push fairly hard to get a credit card into the gap between the flange & belt on my 2013 RT, but it's seemingly within spec; & while the flange does look like it gets polished a little every now & then by the side of the belt, there is absolutely no wear showing on the side of the belt!! I reckon you'd be able to tell pdq if the belt was pushed up against the flange hard enough to create wear - & I wouldn't be all that sure it'd be the belt wearing first, either!! :shocked:

But as others have said, if you think it looks bad (either way) when you've stopped after riding it forwards, back up a bit & check it out then!! I reckon they all move while backing, & backing up just a little can make the best of alignments look impossibly badly off!! :yikes:

So basically, if the belt runs entirely on the pulley while the Spyder is going forwards, it's probably OK!! If you ever see part of the belt hanging off the pulley, even (or especially??) after backing up a bit, then you probably need to get the alignment checked. But apart from that, you really just need to Ride More, Worry Less!! :thumbup:
 
Looks like the dealer wrench messed up yet another item. There is zero clearance between the belt and sprocket flange on my bike. I can't see the inboard edge of the belt to check for scrubbing, but I suspect that there is some wear.

View attachment 136407
That's how mine looks but when I feel the inside edge of the belt it feels fine. No fraying or wear that I can tell.
 
Belt Alignment

Mine is the same way after doing a rear tire change to a general altimax. No indication of wear on belt or sprocket.
 
It should never hang off the sprocket.
Ideally, you're right. But from a practical standpoint I can't see that it makes any difference as long as the belt stays between the flange and outer edge while moving forward. A bike will typically move backwards what, about 1000 feet for every 100 miles of forward travel? I don't see how that little bit of reverse travel with the belt partially off the pulley can cause any real problem. JMHO! :D
 
Belt position and rear tire alignment

Is there any relationship between the belt gap and the alignment of the tire to the frame?

Here's why I ask - the shop manual front end alignment pretty much ignores the rear tire. The front wheels are aligned to the frame. My belt took 3/4 of a turn of the right screw just to get it off of the flange, and it needs a bit more to get it where it should be. This shifted the rear wheel's alignment to the right, inducing a slight vehicle pull to the left. I haven't experienced a problem, but it has to be there. The bike handles differently than before I worked on it.
If the belt is riding on the rear sprocket within spec, is the rear wheel aligned to the frame? I suspect not, since there are other variables in play.
This is why the laser alignment is better. All three wheels are in the proper relationship to each other, ensuring that the bike will track true. Ignoring the rear wheel and aligning to the frame almost guarantees an error in alignment, unless the belt tracking is a precise indicator of rear wheel alignment to the frame, which I strongly doubt.
 
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Mine looked just like that after a tire change.
I was told it was fine and have put about 7,000 miles on the bike since then with no change. Still looks just like yours.
 
Is there any relationship between the belt gap and the alignment of the tire to the frame?

Here's why I ask - the shop manual front end alignment pretty much ignores the rear tire. The front wheels are aligned to the frame. My belt took 3/4 of a turn of the right screw just to get it off of the flange, and it needs a bit more to get it where it should be. This shifted the rear wheel's alignment to the right, inducing a slight vehicle pull to the left. I haven't experienced a problem, but it has to be there. The bike handles differently than before I worked on it.
If the belt is riding on the rear sprocket within spec, is the rear wheel aligned to the frame? I suspect not, since there are other variables in play.
This is why the laser alignment is better. All three wheels are in the proper relationship to each other, ensuring that the bike will track true. Ignoring the rear wheel and aligning to the frame almost guarantees an error in alignment, unless the belt tracking is a precise indicator of rear wheel alignment to the frame, which I strongly doubt.

Since there are adjusters on both sides of the axle it is practically impossible to get the rear wheel 100% aligned to the frame. The reason for having the belt aligned and tensioned properly before doing a laser alignment is so that it does not get thrown out of whack if you get the belt aligned later. I checked my alignment a couple of times while on a long road trip when the rear wheel had to come off, it was off just a bit each time.
 
I have had my belt "centered" for some time just like yours. Since I have moved it into that position, I have experienced very little rumbling in that 70-74mph range. In fact, when the dealer changed out my tire earlier this spring, I told the service manager to adjust the tension, but leave the belt centered. The service manager said the belt was well within BRP's specs and left it as I had it.

Gunner
 
I set the tension and belt alignment with the rear wheel in the air, and it was perfect until I rode it about 100'. Now the belt is back against the flange. What did I do wrong?
 
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