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baja ron shock adjusters install
- Thread starter irvin48
- Start date
Did not find a video using the advanced search. Ron does provide very detailed and easy to follow instructions. Probably the hardest part is removing the upper bolt, which really isn't bad with the right tools.
Chupaca
New member
Don't know. ..!!
I have not seen a video on this but the instructions are always clear and detailed from Ron. What I do know is a spring compressor is needed to make the job easier. If there is a video hope they get you the link....If not talk to Ron he could email you the instructions...:thumbup:
I have not seen a video on this but the instructions are always clear and detailed from Ron. What I do know is a spring compressor is needed to make the job easier. If there is a video hope they get you the link....If not talk to Ron he could email you the instructions...:thumbup:
SpyderAnn01
Active member
No, your assumption would be wrong. On the 14 - 16 you need to raise the Spyder about 24" off the ground. The bar is in a different place entirely on the new models.
CapeSpyder
New member
Looking to install the adjusters on my 16 I have put my hands in there, but doesn't feel like much room for any movement. Is the more room once you lift the spyder?
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
garageguy
New member
Some tips on installing BajaRon's shock adjusters.
Yes he does. Even at zero turns the adjusters raised the front end of my 15 RTSS by almost 1 inch. I am playing with the various adjustments after seating them at zero. With one turn, I noticed the ride (200lbs solo) was noticeably more solid.
Tips on installing that supplements Ron's detailed instructions:
--Use a hydraulic motorcycle or ATV jack because I found myself raising and lowering the spyder many times in small increments.
--Getting a good grip on the front of the top shock bold is a real PITA, esp. the left side. I did not have to remove any side panels, but it's hard to see up there and not much room to work. You definitely need a 15mm offset box end wrench and alot of patience to hold the bolt while loosening the nut in the back. I bought a set at Harbor Freight that eventually worked but were actually too long (9"). Buy a shorter one if you can.
--If this is a DIY job definitely get Ron's spring compressor set. They fit well, and you have to SLOWLY compress the springs back and forth between the adjusters and make absolutely sure the compressors stay parallel to the shock at all times, as the spring hooks on the compressors will "walk" along the spring. I found that using a large crescent wrench to hold the TOP compressor hook nut and stablize the assembly while tightening the compressors, greatly reduces walking as opposed holding the bottom one. You have to tighten the compressors quite a bit to remove the 2 aluminum flanges at the top so be patient.
--Once the adjuster is on the shock body, back it off all the way down and compress the spring some more to get enough clearance to reinstall the 2 flanges at the top.
--Measure the height from the ground to the front of the spyder, before you begin the install, right after the install, and after "seating" the adjusters by riding for a couple of miles at zero turns. You really must seat the adjusters before turning them to adjust the preload because ride height was reduced 3/8" from install to after seating them.
--Put some electrical tape on the inside of the provided spanner wrench before adjusting them. I didn't do this on one side and I have marks in the billet adjuster finish when I used the spanner.
--Took 3-1/2 hours to install. And I did the complete install on one side then the other, found it easier rather than taking both shocks off at the same time.
I had his swaybar installed prior to the compressors, and still noticed a big difference in the RT's front end and cornering prowess. Highly recommend the product to stiffen up the front end. Why Can am doesn't include adjustable front shocks on such an expensive machine is beyond me. :2thumbs::2thumbs:
Yes he does. Even at zero turns the adjusters raised the front end of my 15 RTSS by almost 1 inch. I am playing with the various adjustments after seating them at zero. With one turn, I noticed the ride (200lbs solo) was noticeably more solid.
Tips on installing that supplements Ron's detailed instructions:
--Use a hydraulic motorcycle or ATV jack because I found myself raising and lowering the spyder many times in small increments.
--Getting a good grip on the front of the top shock bold is a real PITA, esp. the left side. I did not have to remove any side panels, but it's hard to see up there and not much room to work. You definitely need a 15mm offset box end wrench and alot of patience to hold the bolt while loosening the nut in the back. I bought a set at Harbor Freight that eventually worked but were actually too long (9"). Buy a shorter one if you can.
--If this is a DIY job definitely get Ron's spring compressor set. They fit well, and you have to SLOWLY compress the springs back and forth between the adjusters and make absolutely sure the compressors stay parallel to the shock at all times, as the spring hooks on the compressors will "walk" along the spring. I found that using a large crescent wrench to hold the TOP compressor hook nut and stablize the assembly while tightening the compressors, greatly reduces walking as opposed holding the bottom one. You have to tighten the compressors quite a bit to remove the 2 aluminum flanges at the top so be patient.
--Once the adjuster is on the shock body, back it off all the way down and compress the spring some more to get enough clearance to reinstall the 2 flanges at the top.
--Measure the height from the ground to the front of the spyder, before you begin the install, right after the install, and after "seating" the adjusters by riding for a couple of miles at zero turns. You really must seat the adjusters before turning them to adjust the preload because ride height was reduced 3/8" from install to after seating them.
--Put some electrical tape on the inside of the provided spanner wrench before adjusting them. I didn't do this on one side and I have marks in the billet adjuster finish when I used the spanner.
--Took 3-1/2 hours to install. And I did the complete install on one side then the other, found it easier rather than taking both shocks off at the same time.
I had his swaybar installed prior to the compressors, and still noticed a big difference in the RT's front end and cornering prowess. Highly recommend the product to stiffen up the front end. Why Can am doesn't include adjustable front shocks on such an expensive machine is beyond me. :2thumbs::2thumbs:
Attachments
garageguy
New member
It's very tight in there removing the upper shock bolts; that's the hardest step. Don't know how anyone could gat a video cam in there. Besides, as I said be4, Ron's instructions are pretty clear. I just added some tips to make it a little easier...
CapeSpyder
New member
Irv here you go
https://youtu.be/d2sOACUyYjo
https://youtu.be/d2sOACUyYjo
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