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F3 two up shock

Original OEM shock & spring Cap Stopper with Elka installation.

Did you install the Elka shock yourself and if so how hard was it to install?

Does the spring cap stopper (2 round plates on top of orignal shocck) from the original OEM shock need to be transfered/installed to the New Elka shock in this photo??????thanks,
Darrell
 
d a short extension on the right side
Got mine yesterday and installed it today, took about 45 minutes. If you have the right tools the only thing you need to remove is the seat. The top mount bolt can be removed using a 15MM socket on a universal joint thru the slot under the seat, a wrench for the nut thru the bottom access, was able to torque the bolts as well.
The ride is much better and smoother and handling is much better in the curves. The best $167.00 I spent so far.
Sorry I should of taken pictures of wrench placement, but I didn't think of it until I was done.:doorag::yes:

I removed the passenger seat to access the two screws holding the driver's seat on, used a 15mm offset box end wrench on the bolt side of the shock thru the oval slot (in my case, the left side) and a 15mm socket with a universal connector and short extension on the other side also thru the slot (right side). Took less than 5 min to remove the shock. Same tools used on the bottom bolt/nut assembly. No need to remove anything but the driver's seat. Your tools fit through the two oval cut outs on each side of the top shock mount which can be seen once the driver's seat is removed. I don't have saddle bags mounted so can't comment on that issue if any.
 
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Does the spring cap stopper (2 round plates on top of orignal shocck) from the original OEM shock need to be transfered/installed to the New Elka shock in this photo??????thanks,
Darrell
What photo?
Take the orignal shock off bike and toss it in the garbage.
The Elka should be ready to go!! Who did you buy the Elka from??
You really should get Help from someone. Do you know how to adjust preload rebound. The adjustment screw needs to face front of Bike.
 
Race tech

I am having Race tech shocks built and installed, like some have said before if your over 200 lbs the stock shock bottoms out, and if you ride two up it can be worst. So the wife has ok'd the new purchase along with a new rear tire. Should ride much better, time will tell.
 
Reading thru this forum I've had mixed feelings. After my ride yesterday, something has to be done. After bottoming out over 6 times on a road that my lowered VTX had no issues on, I have contacted the dealer about the spring. No news yet on can am helping with the purchase, was not aware of the weight limit or the fact that the 15 F3-S wasn't meant for a lot of two up riding. By no means are we even close to the weight limit but evening the interstate I have to watch how I drive to avoid tearing anything up. Is it possible to put a car shock on? Something that will get me a little more mileage out of it? I'm averaging a little over 1k a month and that has been in the winter, so it will go way up now that spring is here?
 
Reading thru this forum I've had mixed feelings. After my ride yesterday, something has to be done. After bottoming out over 6 times on a road that my lowered VTX had no issues on, I have contacted the dealer about the spring. No news yet on can am helping with the purchase, was not aware of the weight limit or the fact that the 15 F3-S wasn't meant for a lot of two up riding. By no means are we even close to the weight limit but evening the interstate I have to watch how I drive to avoid tearing anything up. Is it possible to put a car shock on? Something that will get me a little more mileage out of it? I'm averaging a little over 1k a month and that has been in the winter, so it will go way up now that spring is here?

Just my $.02 but I think some ppl got a batch of defective shocks. I never had the bottoming out problem with the stock shock even riding 2 up (about 380lbs).
 
just picked my f3s up from the dealer. (new shock and warranty bulletin completed) only put a little ride on, but could feel the difference instantly with the new shock. I hope it is not a temporary fix, haven't tried the two up, (as the wife just had her knee replaced) but I am prepared to go the elka route if need be. by the way, my dealer went to bat for me, and I didn't pay for the new shock set-up, I only paid for the labor portion!! hats off to rusty palmers in honesdale, ny!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
New Shock

After having the new heavier BRP shock installed and having the chance to ride it around for a couple of weeks, I can't tell you how pleased I am with the upgrade. The ride it much much better. The cornering is much better and the overall feel is greatly improved..... If you have a budget and can't drop a bunch on something like an Elka, the BRP upgrade is a must. :doorag::spyder2:
 
still waiting

Great to hear all your good reports.
Husband's F3S is still waiting for this shock - they're "on backorder" here in Australia, along with the chassis warranty repair parts. Let's hope "backorder" isn't too long ...
 
more info please

Is this a stock part from BRP? whats the number? also where did you get it installed? looks great:clap:








Thought i would post this so more people could see..
New two up F3 shock
$213.49 plus $60 installation
see any difference..
attachment.php
 
Not sure how this comes into play but based on these numbers it does not indicate much difference. It only compresses 1/4" less the than original shock.

To me it's not about numbers and measurements. I replaced my shock with the 2-up Shock, and after riding
around 800kms on the weekend I was very happy with the way it performed. I am not a small person at all.
I even took my partner for a ride on the back, and to be honest we would have been challenging the weight
restriction for bike and shock, and I was very happy with the ride, so was my partner. But she still prefers
to ride her own Spyder
 
Elka

What photo?
Take the orignal shock off bike and toss it in the garbage.
The Elka should be ready to go!! Who did you buy the Elka from??
You really should get Help from someone. Do you know how to adjust preload rebound. The adjustment screw needs to face front of Bike.

I bought the Elka shock directly from Elka . . I've done shock adjustments on the Hayabusa---didn't seem to make a big difference to me--except for traction burnout-hop-just a minimal improvement. The set it up by Elka was based on the weight I gave them. I weigh 180# & wife is at 120# thus no parameters were anywhere near the max adjustments. I've ridden less than 100 miles since the replacement--if any problems arise I will get involved with the adjustments. So far--so good.
 
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Repair Campain for shock mount

:cus:I'm hopin these pix attached to my reply here. Am I to Ass-ume that there is supposed to be 6 (six) bolts in this plate that was the "warranty repair". If you look closely you'll see that there wasn't any other bolt even put in the 1 (one) open bolt hole that is visible. We just got this F3 S Wednesday 16th. Was a rough deal going into with the dealership with multiple "mistakes and omissions" on their part, but we really wanted the bike. Now this issue on the "safety/warranty" fix???? We haven't yet confronted them with this "problem.,,,just would like some O-pinions as to where to go next: Attorney?? Monetary Gimme's? Or suck it up and deal with it as a Can Am Dealer Ineptitude:gaah:
 

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I feel sorry for you that this happened.
Now you'll never trust the dealer as you shouldn't.
Hope you can find a different dealer.
I ride 82 miles to My dealer when there are two just up the highway that are terrible.
God Luck.
 
This thread should be connected to this one: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-reinforcement&p=1106718&posted=1#post1106718

The effort by BRP to address this problem is a best a band aid. This is an opinion of an engineer with many years of experience in the aerospace field. The BRP solution does not address the cause of the problem only where the chassis is failing. By reinforcing the area that could fail and not eliminating the cause of the issue, the cause (weak rear spring allowing rear of the bike to bottom out frequently and impart impact loads into the rear chassis) may cause another part of the bike to fail.

Jerry
 
Has anyone tried using spring stiffeners like we used to use in the cars for racing to see if that will stop the bottoming out problem some are having?
 
The space between coil & shock is to small to get anything like the old spacers in there. Was hoping I could scrunch the spring some but no go

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
Two Up Follow Up

With the weather warming here in Northern Nevada I had the chance to do some mountain riding today with my new two up shock. In a word "Awesome".

When we got our F3S I found that I could not corner aggressively. If I really pushed into a corner, I would feel a shift under me and the trike would drift out of the corner. To ride corners, I had to really back off on the throttle to enjoy the trike on our mountain roads.... I now know that the shift I felt was the POS shock BRP installed in the 2015 F3 models. I had the new two up shock installed last month. Today, I had the opportunity to ride some mountain curves and it's a whole different animal. I tired a couple of aggressive corners and the trike followed the line I'd planned without a problem. No shift, no drift, it stayed right on course. With the more favorable performance, I pushed it a bit harder and to my surprise, it preformed flawlessly. I love the new two up shock, the trike performs much better......BRP should be ashamed of themselves. :yes::yes::yes:
 
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