Will using the Position #3 brake rod in Position #4 lower the brake pedal?

[broderp]

Once you get it where you want it, you'll never mess with it again, right? Find yourself someone that welds and will work with you, get the thing where you want it height wise, measure the length and make a rod. You could take your rod now and add a piece or shorten it, take the ends off and get a piece of rod and weld them on. Heck, come to Maine and I'll make you one!:2thumbs:

Maine's not that far and would make a fun ride.....

Seriously though, I thought about creating one like my motorcycles shift linkage. It has an adjusting nut in the center. Loosen the jam nuts and turn it CW or CCW to lengthen or shorten the linkage. This way the adjustment can be made without removing the linkage on either end.

Or something like this: (just larger, beefier and with the proper ends on it)

https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Adj...refix=Adjustable+linkage,aps,144&sr=8-36&th=1

 

[Mikey]

Maine's not that far and would make a fun ride.....

Seriously though, I thought about creating one like my motorcycles shift linkage. It has an adjusting nut in the center. Loosen the jam nuts and turn it CW or CCW to lengthen or shorten the linkage. This way the adjustment can be made without removing the linkage on either end.

Or something like this: (just larger, beefier and with the proper ends on it)

https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Adjustable-Turnbuckles-Steering-Compatible/dp/B0B61SP6Y7/ref=sr_1_36?crid=LMD5I4Y3YIA5&keywords=adjustable+linkage+rod&qid=1702303638&sprefix=Adjustable+linkage,aps,144&sr=8-36&th=1

A little over kill, but great idea!!! :2thumbs:

 

[broderp]

Quick update- I tried to call Lamonster 3 times today but they don't answer. They still have their "we will be closed until January 2nd" voice mail responding.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

Send them an email.

 

[Cobranut]

New owner of a 2015 F3S.

Mine has foot boards installed, but the location is fully forward, a bit of a stretch for me. LOL

I'm thinking of just making some adjustable links with aluminum linkage rods and stainless clevis ends.
Would 5/16" or 8mm threaded ends be sufficiently strong for this application?

 

[TheMariner]

Howdy,

5/16" or 8mm would be strong enough but remember... the brake rod goes into compression when the pedal is pushed, so make sure the linkage rod size is sufficient to prevent buckling under load. Also, pay attention to the dissimilar metals corrosion potential of having stainless parts screwed into aluminium. Use some sort of joint compound (in Australia we use 'Tef-Gel') to eliminate this risk.

 

[Tbusa]

Howdy,

5/16" or 8mm would be strong enough but remember... the brake rod goes into compression when the pedal is pushed, so make sure the linkage rod size is sufficient to prevent buckling under load. Also, pay attention to the dissimilar metals corrosion potential of having stainless parts screwed into aluminium. Use some sort of joint compound (in Australia we use 'Tef-Gel') to eliminate this risk.

With all due respect, I made an 8mm adjustable rod and it bowed and bent under hard braking. I had even added a 2" thread coupler in the center to alter the stress moment vs no coupler. Albeit, the rear tire would be leaving big black streaks before the rod could bow, but the tire shouldn't lock up completely due to ABS.

I cut a position one rod about 2 inches in front of the clevis weld, drilled and tapped 3/8- 16 threaded rod, about 1.5 inches on both rods, and added an unnecessary nut to lock the threaded rod in position against the end of the tubing. Dry fit the rod length with your boot under the pedal if you ride that way. It did NOT bow or bend with me exerting 70 pounds of force. It's up to each individual if they consider an adjustable rod safe. LaMonster's rods are better, the same as the stock design, and they will never bow or break. They are just a bit shorter than the factory rods, which moves the pedal closer to the floorboard, but the pedal angle is not adjustable.

I'd highly recommend non-adjustable rod if anyone one has ANY safety concern whatsoever with an adjustable 3/8- 16 threaded adjustable rod. Can Am Engineers designed a very robust and fault free rod by making it completely solid with welded clevis ends.

But I like to tinker (I am fairly sure a few others on this site are tinkerers too, lol) and I wanted to see what I could do for literally 30 cents of thread rod and one unnecessary nut.
If you need to buy a tap and handle plus a 5/16 tap drill, then the price escalated by a huge percentage vs 30 cents but only to about $12. But you then have the tools to use again, so it's not really fair to include all the tool costs, perhaps.

 

[TheMariner]

Hi there,

I wasn't suggesting that the entire rod be 5/16" (8mm) as that would certainly buckle under compression. There is no way a length of threaded rod that size can compare to the OEM Ø16 hollow tube in compression. We were discussing using 5/16" threaded rod ends only... the assumption being that the rod itself is much larger.

I did much the same as you described... cut the rod in front of the rear clevis, drilled & tapped both cut ends to 8mm x 25 deep. To join this all back up I used a 110mm length of threaded rod with 2 locknuts on it, so once adjusted & locked-up there is only about 60mm of threaded rod exposed.