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Where Should Oil Mark Be? Cold Eng.

Bozzzz

New member
I know the proper procedure to check the oil accurately.

However, just curious, where should the oil level be on the dipstick of a cold engine?
 
If they told you that, you wouldn't need to check it hot. ;) Seriously, it will vary with the outside temp...and may drop below that if the check leaks a little, and the engine wet sumps a bit while resting. That's the reason they have you do a 30 second restart, then check immediately. It may also be below the bottom of that short dipstick. All you can do is check your own, under your particular conditions, to see what's normal for your Spyder. Check it hot at night, then recheck cold in the morning.
 
You just can't get an accurate reading when cold. You gotta get the oil flowing. When you change the oil pressure sensor you have to run the bike until warm so you'll have much of the oil OUT of the engine and into the oil tank--- so you won't leak as much out while doing the sensor swap.

The tank doesn't 'hold oil' waiting for it to pump into the engine----it's actually more the opposite.

Go by what the manual says. Mine doesn't read anything when cold.
 
You just can't get an accurate reading when cold. You gotta get the oil flowing. When you change the oil pressure sensor you have to run the bike until warm so you'll have much of the oil OUT of the engine and into the oil tank--- so you won't leak as much out while doing the sensor swap.

The tank doesn't 'hold oil' waiting for it to pump into the engine----it's actually more the opposite.

Go by what the manual says. Mine doesn't read anything when cold.
I learned something new again...thanks
 
You just can't get an accurate reading when cold. You gotta get the oil flowing. When you change the oil pressure sensor you have to run the bike until warm so you'll have much of the oil OUT of the engine and into the oil tank--- so you won't leak as much out while doing the sensor swap.

The tank doesn't 'hold oil' waiting for it to pump into the engine----it's actually more the opposite.

Go by what the manual says. Mine doesn't read anything when cold.
:hun: Boy, they must have reinvented dry sump engines while I slept last night! In a dry sump engine the oil is held in the tank, pump, and lines, with a small amount in the engine sump. The pump draws oil from the tank, and pumps it through the system, then a scavenging pump returns it from the sump to the tank. Sometimes the pressure pump and scavenging pump are combined.

I agree about checking per the manual...exactly. Nancy's will show cold on the stick if it is very full (and the check holds), but then it oils the airbox. The Spyder desparately needs an oil sightglass at the tank to make things easier and less fussy.
 
:hun:
I learned something new again...thanks
"Boy, they must have reinvented dry sump engines while I slept last night! In a dry sump engine the oil is held in the tank, pump, and lines, with a small amount in the engine sump. The pump draws oil from the tank, and pumps it through the system, then a scavenging pump returns it from the sump to the tank. Sometimes the pressure pump and scavenging pump are combined.

I agree about checking per the manual...exactly. Nancy's will show cold on the stick if it is very full (and the check holds), but then it oils the airbox. The Spyder desparately needs an oil sightglass at the tank to make things easier and less fussy."
__________________
Now I don't know what I learned....
 
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:hun: Boy, they must have reinvented dry sump engines while I slept last night! In a dry sump engine the oil is held in the tank, pump, and lines, with a small amount in the engine sump. The pump draws oil from the tank, and pumps it through the system, then a scavenging pump returns it from the sump to the tank. Sometimes the pressure pump and scavenging pump are combined.

I agree about checking per the manual...exactly. Nancy's will show cold on the stick if it is very full (and the check holds), but then it oils the airbox. The Spyder desparately needs an oil sightglass at the tank to make things easier and less fussy.

I had a sight glass on my 1980 GL1100 Goldwing and hated it. I don't want to have to get on the ground to check the oil level. I'm not crazy about the Spyder method either. I'm not certain why they chose this method, but assume there's a good reason for it.
 
:hun: Boy, they must have reinvented dry sump engines while I slept last night! In a dry sump engine the oil is held in the tank, pump, and lines, with a small amount in the engine sump. The pump draws oil from the tank, and pumps it through the system, then a scavenging pump returns it from the sump to the tank. Sometimes the pressure pump and scavenging pump are combined.

I agree about checking per the manual...exactly. Nancy's will show cold on the stick if it is very full (and the check holds), but then it oils the airbox. The Spyder desparately needs an oil sightglass at the tank to make things easier and less fussy.

Hmmm- well--- I could be totally wrong about the operation--- the service manual says to run the engine to draw the oil out of the engine before you change the oil pressure switch--- and since the dipstick won't read anything when cold--- it sure sounds like more oil sits in the engine than does in the oil tank.....?????
 
Hmmm- well--- I could be totally wrong about the operation--- the service manual says to run the engine to draw the oil out of the engine before you change the oil pressure switch--- and since the dipstick won't read anything when cold--- it sure sounds like more oil sits in the engine than does in the oil tank.....?????
That's for the scavenging pump to empty any oil out that leaks through the clearances and check valves, back to the sump. Basically, gravity always wins. The process is known as "wet sumping", and is common when dry sump engines are shut down. most of the oil is still in the oil tank, however, unless a check valve fails completely.
 
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