• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What type of oil do you use?

AMSOIL SAE 5W-40

I had the shop put Amsoil in at the 600mile oil change and I will say that the Spyder has never been smoother and more responsive. The transmission shifts smoother and faster, the engine sounds so much better and throttles more responsively in a smoother manner. I was skeptical until I read their Motorcycle White Paper and when put up against 17 other oils it rates higher cumulatively over many of their tests when compared to the competition. I think I am getting better gas mileage, but haven't tested it to prove it, but I seem to be going farther between refills. I'm not a dealer or anything, but I signed up as a Preferred Customer to buy it at wholesale and I am very happy with their oil and Power Shot gas enhancer. Be careful when choosing Castrol RS R4 AT, Spectro Plat SX4, Bel-ray EXS Superbike; according to their test they fail miserably in rust protection which is important for the winter months when the Spyder sits. The picture they show of Castrol RS R4 4T is disgustingly corroded. Bel_ray & Lucas oil also foam horribly. Lucas Oil & Royal Purple has the worse Volatility (Evaporation) (ASTM D-5800) at 18.68%.

Motul ranked 6th out 15 with a score of 75. Amsoil Ranked #1 with a cumulative score of 31. Royal Purple ranked 14th with a score of 93. Pennzoil was last place ranked 15th with a score of 111.

Here is a link to there White Paper on Motorcycle oils http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf . It was very educational and helped me understand what makes an oil better than another. Amsoil is not the cheapest, but it is also not the most expensive. If you go that route sign up as a preferred buyer and get it for wholesale. They ship to your door normally in 2-3 days depending on your location to a distribution center and there shipping rates are very low considering the weight of the shipments.

YMMV :2thumbs:
 
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I had the shop put Amsoil in at the 600mile oil change and I will say that the Spyder has never been smoother and more responsive. The transmission shifts smoother and faster, the engine sounds so much better and throttles more responsively in a smoother manner. I was skeptical until I read their Motorcycle White Paper and when put up against 17 other oils it rates higher cumulatively over many of their tests when compared to the competition. I think I am getting better gas mileage, but haven't tested it to prove it, but I seem to be going farther between refills. I'm not a dealer or anything, but I signed up as a Preferred Customer to buy it at wholesale and I am very happy with their oil and Power Shot gas enhancer. Be careful when choosing Castrol RS R4 AT, Spectro Plat SX4, Bel-ray EXS Superbike; according to their test they fail miserably in rust protection which is important for the winter months when the Spyder sits. The picture they show of Castrol RS R4 4T is disgustingly corroded. Bel_ray & Lucas oil also foam horribly. Lucas Oil & Royal Purple has the worse Volatility (Evaporation) (ASTM D-5800) at 18.68%.

Motul ranked 6th out 15 with a score of 75. Amsoil Ranked #1 with a cumulative score of 31. Royal Purple ranked 14th with a score of 93. Pennzoil was last place ranked 15th with a score of 111.

Here is a link to there White Paper on Motorcycle oils http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf . It was very educational and helped me understand what makes an oil better than another. Amsoil is not the cheapest, but it is also not the most expensive. If you go that route sign up as a preferred buyer and get it for wholesale. They ship to your door normally in 2-3 days depending on your location to a distribution center and there shipping rates are very low considering the weight of the shipments.

YMMV :2thumbs:
Amsoil is a good product, don't get me wrong, but do not buy into everything put out in a supposedly "scientific" study, that is subsidized and advertised by the oil company. Almost anybody can prove anything, with the right testing procedures and statistics. I prefer to remain a bit more skeptical of "white paper" articles like these..or the companies that use them to promote their products. :lecturef_smilie:
 
I had the shop put Amsoil in at the 600mile oil change and I will say that the Spyder has never been smoother and more responsive. The transmission shifts smoother and faster, the engine sounds so much better and throttles more responsively in a smoother manner. I was skeptical until I read their Motorcycle White Paper and when put up against 17 other oils it rates higher cumulatively over many of their tests when compared to the competition. I think I am getting better gas mileage, but haven't tested it to prove it, but I seem to be going farther between refills. I'm not a dealer or anything, but I signed up as a Preferred Customer to buy it at wholesale and I am very happy with their oil and Power Shot gas enhancer. Be careful when choosing Castrol RS R4 AT, Spectro Plat SX4, Bel-ray EXS Superbike; according to their test they fail miserably in rust protection which is important for the winter months when the Spyder sits. The picture they show of Castrol RS R4 4T is disgustingly corroded. Bel_ray & Lucas oil also foam horribly. Lucas Oil & Royal Purple has the worse Volatility (Evaporation) (ASTM D-5800) at 18.68%.

Motul ranked 6th out 15 with a score of 75. Amsoil Ranked #1 with a cumulative score of 31. Royal Purple ranked 14th with a score of 93. Pennzoil was last place ranked 15th with a score of 111.

Here is a link to there White Paper on Motorcycle oils http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf . It was very educational and helped me understand what makes an oil better than another. Amsoil is not the cheapest, but it is also not the most expensive. If you go that route sign up as a preferred buyer and get it for wholesale. They ship to your door normally in 2-3 days depending on your location to a distribution center and there shipping rates are very low considering the weight of the shipments.

YMMV :2thumbs:

Amsoil ran tests with other oils and came out on top! Does this surprise you? I also read some of their marketing. The reason I don't use Amsoil is because the results were too good to be true. The way they write it up, it's like "the perfect oil". But I am glad you like it, because in the end, it's really how you feel about what you use that really counts.

BTW, I use Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic automotive oil. It has proven itself in our first Spyder, 43,000+ miles and in out 2010 RT, 9000 miles.
 
Amsoil is a good product, don't get me wrong, but do not buy into everything put out in a supposedly "scientific" study, that is subsidized and advertised by the oil company. Almost anybody can prove anything, with the right testing procedures and statistics. I prefer to remain a bit more skeptical of "white paper" articles like these..or the companies that use them to promote their products. :lecturef_smilie:

I researched Amsoil and found plenty of people who share your skepticism as do I, but I found so many people who liked the product and decided to give it a try. They pioneered synthetics in the 70's in the consumer auto markets when no body else was doing it. They have made a go of it for 4 decades and that says something to me. I have spoke with other engineers who support using it as we tend to be more skeptical than most people.

It's in the middle of the price range when compared to other synthetics and performs admirably for it's price. At wholesale it's a bargain for it's performance and the pictures of car engines tore down at over +100K and big rig trucks tore down at +500K are clean and not worn down like typical engines.

This website: http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/Scamsoil_Skeptics.htm put up by an engineer titled "Scamsoil" was part of my searching for contrary information on Amsoil, but it turns out it's a debunking site that this engineer put up to counter the negative misinformation and sour grapes of the industry that seems to loathe Amsoil's very existance:

Regardless your point is well taken, but I'm already impressed with what it has done for my Spyder's engine & transmission as it was night and day from how it was running prior switching to Amsoil. I will say without hesitation that the generic stock oil is not something I would ever putb in my engine IMHO. If you look at the rust and wear pictures in the whitepaper they speak volumes more to how inadequate a few of the other oils are and at the very least steered me away from certain brands as they failed the test.

:chat:
 
BRP OIL

I use BRP, and will continue using till warranty expires. Don't want finger pointing if something should fail during the warranty period, even tho we are covered by law. It reduces the hassle.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it a fact that engine failure in modern engines using modern oils especially synthetic ones is almost unheard of if they are maintained to manufacturer specs. So as long as your oil meets those specs and isn't causing any concerns (such as clutch slippage) then their shouldn't be a lot of concern for which oil any of us prefer?
 
Amsoil ran tests with other oils and came out on top! Does this surprise you? I also read some of their marketing. The reason I don't use Amsoil is because the results were too good to be true. The way they write it up, it's like "the perfect oil". But I am glad you like it, because in the end, it's really how you feel about what you use that really counts.

BTW, I use Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic automotive oil. It has proven itself in our first Spyder, 43,000+ miles and in out 2010 RT, 9000 miles.


Personally I would not run Royal Purple, it's barely maintains its SAE rating at 100C. Its outside it's viscosity grade right out of the gate and at 15-90 cycles it's already at an SAE 30 viscosity grade. Poor shear stability and only Lucas High performance is lower being worse. It has the worse wear of all the oils tested and by a huge margin. 10mm of metal worn off ball bearings is disturbing. To each his own. :2thumbs: I would be interested to see pictures of the guts at 100K just for comparison, but I need to drive like a mad man to catch up to you because I am only at 1K :roflblack:
 
Amsoil ran tests with other oils and came out on top! Does this surprise you? I also read some of their marketing. The reason I don't use Amsoil is because the results were too good to be true. The way they write it up, it's like "the perfect oil". But I am glad you like it, because in the end, it's really how you feel about what you use that really counts.

BTW, I use Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic automotive oil. It has proven itself in our first Spyder, 43,000+ miles and in out 2010 RT, 9000 miles.

They didn't come out on top on several tests, but because they were not poor in any test and some oils were they scored overall better based on a multitude of tests that they scored in the middle to above average and only occasionally scored #1 of a couple of tests. I just said its a middle of the road oil performing equally well in all tests and exceptional in a couple of tests. Some of the oils tested failed foaming,wear, and rust tests because they were engineered for racing where tearing down and rebuilding is the norm and longevity is not the intent of the oil. Buying an oil made for racing for a engine you wish to last forever is folly, that's all I gathered by looking over the failure of few oils. Engineered for a particular purpose the poor scoring oil is just fine where rust is not a concern. A foaming oil probably is circulated quickly and produces less drag on the engine which is probably great for racing, but that is outside my pay grade and I am speculating.
 
I researched Amsoil and found plenty of people who share your skepticism as do I, but I found so many people who liked the product and decided to give it a try. They pioneered synthetics in the 70's in the consumer auto markets when no body else was doing it. They have made a go of it for 4 decades and that says something to me. I have spoke with other engineers who support using it as we tend to be more skeptical than most people.

It's in the middle of the price range when compared to other synthetics and performs admirably for it's price. At wholesale it's a bargain for it's performance and the pictures of car engines tore down at over +100K and big rig trucks tore down at +500K are clean and not worn down like typical engines.

This website: http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/Scamsoil_Skeptics.htm put up by an engineer titled "Scamsoil" was part of my searching for contrary information on Amsoil, but it turns out it's a debunking site that this engineer put up to counter the negative misinformation and sour grapes of the industry that seems to loathe Amsoil's very existance:

Regardless your point is well taken, but I'm already impressed with what it has done for my Spyder's engine & transmission as it was night and day from how it was running prior switching to Amsoil. I will say without hesitation that the generic stock oil is not something I would ever putb in my engine IMHO. If you look at the rust and wear pictures in the whitepaper they speak volumes more to how inadequate a few of the other oils are and at the very least steered me away from certain brands as they failed the test.

:chat:


This has been beat to death on just about any board that has to do with internal combustion engines.
Bottom line as I see it. No doubt Amsoil is a good product, how much better or if it is better than the the top shelf synthetics is open to debate. That white paper is an Amsoil study so it must be taken with a small grain of salt. Not saying they are lying but the paid for it and it does not have the same weight as an independent study. I will try their products when they start marketing it in a normal manner. I am not going to look and order stuff when great products are 5 minutes and less than 1/10 of a gallon of fuel away:dontknow:


RAL
 
I researched Amsoil and found plenty of people who share your skepticism as do I, but I found so many people who liked the product and decided to give it a try. They pioneered synthetics in the 70's in the consumer auto markets when no body else was doing it. They have made a go of it for 4 decades and that says something to me. I have spoke with other engineers who support using it as we tend to be more skeptical than most people.

It's in the middle of the price range when compared to other synthetics and performs admirably for it's price. At wholesale it's a bargain for it's performance and the pictures of car engines tore down at over +100K and big rig trucks tore down at +500K are clean and not worn down like typical engines.

This website: http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/Scamsoil_Skeptics.htm put up by an engineer titled "Scamsoil" was part of my searching for contrary information on Amsoil, but it turns out it's a debunking site that this engineer put up to counter the negative misinformation and sour grapes of the industry that seems to loathe Amsoil's very existance:

Regardless your point is well taken, but I'm already impressed with what it has done for my Spyder's engine & transmission as it was night and day from how it was running prior switching to Amsoil. I will say without hesitation that the generic stock oil is not something I would ever putb in my engine IMHO. If you look at the rust and wear pictures in the whitepaper they speak volumes more to how inadequate a few of the other oils are and at the very least steered me away from certain brands as they failed the test.

:chat:
I ran Amsoil from the time it first appeared in the 1970s. It is good oil. So are many others. I guess I rely more on the appearance of the many engines and pieces of machinery I have taken apart to understand that the rust and damage photos are just sensationalism, meant to sell oil and to scare you away from the cometing products, and are not typical conditions found when other oils are used. It is much like seeing a picture of a Spyder clutch that blew up, and worrying that all Spyder clutches do the same. It just ain't so! If I had as good of marketing people as Amsoil, I could convince people that I was a 25 year old millionaire with an IQ of 457. :roflblack:
 
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I ran Amsoil from the time it first appeared in the 1070s.

If I had as good of marketing people as Amsoil, I could convince people that I was a 25 year old millionaire with an IQ of 457. :roflblack:

Man you are really old. No amount of marketing could convince me that you are a 25 year old. Maybe 250 year old. :roflblack: :roflblack:
 
They didn't come out on top on several tests, but because they were not poor in any test and some oils were they scored overall better based on a multitude of tests that they scored in the middle to above average and only occasionally scored #1 of a couple of tests. I just said its a middle of the road oil performing equally well in all tests and exceptional in a couple of tests. Some of the oils tested failed foaming,wear, and rust tests because they were engineered for racing where tearing down and rebuilding is the norm and longevity is not the intent of the oil. Buying an oil made for racing for a engine you wish to last forever is folly, that's all I gathered by looking over the failure of few oils. Engineered for a particular purpose the poor scoring oil is just fine where rust is not a concern. A foaming oil probably is circulated quickly and produces less drag on the engine which is probably great for racing, but that is outside my pay grade and I am speculating.
Sorry to bring this thread up again but going back over it I had a revelation of sorts, and that is, in the Amsoil studies they really don't address protection where most engine damage occurs and that would be cold starts.
 
Sorry to bring this thread up again but going back over it I had a revelation of sorts, and that is, in the Amsoil studies they really don't address protection where most engine damage occurs and that would be cold starts.

I'll reread the white paper because somewhere in there they mention why certain oils possessing certain qualites would be bad for starts, but I can't remember off hand as I only read cover to cover once and it was bit much to digest on a single read. When I need some bathroom reading time I will bring with me again. (Comes in handy for passing the time):opps:
 
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