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What type of gas does everyone use

BRP recommend minimum 92 Octane. Here in New Zealand we have 91, 95, 98. My original RS and then my RSS ran great and got best performance and mileage from 91, with the occasional 95 fill up. Tried running my ST on 91 and it didn't like it at all, at my first service, my dealer told me I was using 91 and to stop using it and go to 95, as the engine knock sensor had been woken up quite a few times. No noticeable difference in performance, and I have given up worrying about mileage, I ride to enjoy it.
 
:agree:.............And everyone here knows it ....BRP's line of whooey not with-standing ............My mechanic ( & best friend ) and I ACTUALLY tested it and found in the 2014 RT anything but 87 is a waste of money ......................let the flaming begin....ha ha ha ..........Mike.........................................................................................​And for those of you who truly believe and espouse that the 2014 RT MUST use at least 91 Octane ................What do you think is going to happen to the engine if you DON'T...............................I really want your opinions on this question..........I bet I don't get one single answer

I'm brave or stupid, but I'll take that bet...Like Charlie Daniels,...

So, 87 is the one you prefer. Dare I ask, do you run pump fuel with no additional additives or are you adding other products (not octane booster) to your pump gas? May I ask if you have a preferred brand?

I shall believe you are willing to go with an 87 octane with nothing added.

Without crazy details, there is a difference between detonation and preignition. Often they are posted about on the internet with wrong meanings or applications.

Preignition is the ignition of the compressed air / fuel mixture by typically the spark plug if advanced to much or also, something hot enough in the combustion area to ignite the fuel. This could be overheated carbon deposits, a sharp machined edge from production, a super heated edge of an exhaust valve that is floating or has poor tip clearance and more. Regardless the fuel is ignited and burns at the wrong time. Burning fuel is a controlled burn or flame front. The key is controlled flame, but at the wrong time.

Detonation is an uncontrolled combustion event. Rather than igniting the fuel / air, the compression pressure, too low of an octane, or a manifold pressure that is too high for the relative load can cause the fuel to detonate. Detonating is like TNT or explosives. It is an instantaneous event with no control of the burn to speak of.

So, good inside the combustion chamber is controlled burn, bad is explosions inside the combustion chamber. Detonation is a very high cylinder pressure. The short duration and high pressure can destroy heads, pistons, bend rods, snap cranks, and destroy bearings.

87 vs 91, 93 or even unleaded race gas.

87 octane will burn in the engine. Will it detonate or cause issues. If an engine is monitored by a Knock Sensor, this device has the ability to allow the engine mapping to be taken to the limits of programing, and then if along the way of the ECM adjusting mixture and timing vs temps, Mass Airflow, Manifold pressures and load, it senses a knock. Far more sensitive than what we would hear since the Knock Sensor is feeling the engine, not listening, the ECM will make adjustments to control parameters to remove the knock.

It is true and sometimes discussed that the best octane to run is the lowest possible that will not knock. Typically because the flame will travel faster and utilize all the fuel. Less discussed is that with more octane, and an appropriate engine map, the timing can be increased slightly to allow more time to burn the higher octane fuel.

So why is lower better sometimes. It can be a timeframe situation, in milliseconds, the combustion event takes place. At say 4000 rpm your one cylinder is completing 66.66 firing events per second. Each event requires a precise time, in degrees before top dead center to optimize the engine. If the rpm is doubled to 8000 that is 133.33 events per second, we turn race bikes close to 15000, this is 250 engine events per cylinder, per second.

Why does the octane matter, the often least amount required octane, will reduce the burn time. If the octane is higher and optimized, the timing must be advanced to allow enough time to burn all the fuel. If the timing is advanced, this is beginning the burn more degrees before top dead center. Simply, a few degrees will create more initial pressure to get the engine to turn past top dead center and begin the downward stroke that makes the power.

So why recommend a higher octane. If the fuel burn can begin sooner, and burn longer, there may be more net power from the power stroke. It can also be a short stroke engine or radical port or valve timing that dumps unburned fuel into the exhaust. There are no doubt many variables.

For many years I have tuned 2 strokes. From simple carb tuning of all circuits to port work, case work and even modifying cranks and reed blocks, plus pipes. The high performance 2 stroke is more critical than a 4 stroke in regards to the engine getting less rpm from higher compression, higher case or secondary compression, or less than ideal gasoline and octane. My current 2 stroke everything including lawn equipment runs 100ll avgas with Klotz r50 premix oil. The fuel is stable, does not destroy seals or rubber carb parts. Is the octane too high, maybe for the lawn equipment, but my yard smells like a track when I whippersnipper the grass. My KTM 250, came with a pretty conservative head design. It was capable of running pump gas. The low crank pressure and a squish band dimension and clearance created many problems in power output and the bike would never jet clean. Simply modding the head saw huge gains and easy jetting. The 100ll fuel may seem excessive, but there is benefits to the lead added into the fuel. Overall, simply a good compromise.

I have tested 100ll in my old and now sold YZ426f race bike. One would expect the 100ll to give good results. Did not happen. The tolulene that is in the fuel slows the burn time. Not really a big concern, and was not except to make the engine accelerate. Basically the off corner performance was bogging and had no snap. Pump gas ran better but jet suffered. Running unleaded Sunoco 105 was very good performance wise, but the fuel contained MTBE as an oxygenator, the fumes of the fuel and exhaust were brutal, plus MTBE is not good for you.

In our Spyder we typically run Chevron 93. Not so much for octane, but rather better feel through the mid range power and most importantly the cleaning additives including Techron. I also use a Yamaha product to lessen corrosion and preserve the fuel.

Can lower octane run good and give good numbers, yes. Why does BRP say 91 minimum, they designed the ECM parameters for that octane. Is 93 too high, maybe, we could likely run 91 and see better numbers and save a few dollars.

The best advice is a quality fuel. Consistency counts. In regards to Alaska and other areas where the fuel all comes from the same refinery, yes it does happen. The thing that makes it different is the additive packs are done as it leaves the holding tank and this makes the Chevron / Teaxco different than Exxon / Mobil and those of the corner store.

The chips were pushed into the center of the table...there's more but I need to get bicycle stuff done.

PK
 
This year I have been using ethanol free gas, it is mostly 89 or 90 octane. I get better fuel economy plus I don't worry about the ethanol destroying the fuel system and gumming up the engine. I am getting 200 miles or better on each tank before the low fuel light comes on. There is an app to find stations that sell the good stuff.
 
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

.....Paul probably the most intelligent answer on Octane I've ever encountered ........Bravo.....Very well done ..............Unfortunately I can only get gas with Ethyl in it so I add an appropriate amount of " STARTRON " ..............My main question however was ..................What will happen to the 1330 engine if you don't use 91 Octane and use 87 instead ................Just an educated guess from you will suffice...........................and since you may not have read my post with some important info........My friend and mechanic with 45 yrs experience some of them in the Pro Drag circuit ......Took my RT out ( that had been getting 87 oct. for 5 tank fulls ) and load tested it to see what it would take to set the KNOCK-SENSORS off ........He said " It took a lot to set them off " more than any normal riding would do , even passing as long as you downshifted intelligently when needed..................Personally I have not detected them activating using 87 Octane. If there is any less performance I'm not noticing that either ........If I was racing this thing I would be using 91 octane ..........Mike
 
.....Paul probably the most intelligent answer on Octane I've ever encountered ........Bravo.....Very well done ..............Unfortunately I can only get gas with Ethyl in it so I add an appropriate amount of " STARTRON " ..............My main question however was ..................What will happen to the 1330 engine if you don't use 91 Octane and use 87 instead ................Just an educated guess from you will suffice...........................and since you may not have read my post with some important info........My friend and mechanic with 45 yrs experience some of them in the Pro Drag circuit ......Took my RT out ( that had been getting 87 oct. for 5 tank fulls ) and load tested it to see what it would take to set the KNOCK-SENSORS off ........He said " It took a lot to set them off " more than any normal riding would do , even passing as long as you downshifted intelligently when needed..................Personally I have not detected them activating using 87 Octane. If there is any less performance I'm not noticing that either ........If I was racing this thing I would be using 91 octane ..........Mike



The honest answer, likely no damage. Based on your friends quote there is two words used, intelligently and downshifting.

The 91 is more likely a safe bet for some owners. Also, consider your friend was not able to validate results for a multitude of, ambient temps, humidity, different fuel brands and these differences under extreme loads or poor engine parameters. This can make a difference.

As for the mileage, in my truck 93 goes further per tank on the same routes. I have logged fill ups / miles from 0 miles five years ago.

In regards to the Spyder, it should follow the same trend. It has been difficult to get good numbers for several months as the ambient temps are really hot or cool at night, fuel density changes. Also, in fairness, the engine is still freeing up as we do not have the miles some people do.

Without knowing the cranking PSI, and compression ratio, the octane of 87 is tough to predict. The other parameter is how much ethanol (oxygenation), and how does the ECM see the ethanol. Keeping it simple, the ethanol is part of the Air / Fuel ratio parameter, tied into Mass Air Sense. The ECM computes lean, adjust fuel flow richer, or longer, cools the cylinders and makes power. There is more but this is a simple stop point.

A 93 octane may have less ethanol or none though advertised as up to xx%. In this case, the engine management makes little or no adjustment and the faster burning 87 can make similar power. Mileage is tough though, alcohols need a lot of fuel to make heat. The heat element would see greater fuel burn from ethanol, unless the power output comes up enough to offset the fuel burned.

Quoted from chevron off the internet

Non oxygenated gasoline (all grades) would have a net heat content of 114,900 Btu/gal. Oxygenating this gasoline with 10 volume percent ethanol or 15% volume percent MTBE would lower it's heat content 3% to 111,400 Btu/gal. Traditionally, premium grade gasoline has had a slightly higher heating value than regular. The difference-less than 1%. The differences likely to be less or non existent between grades of reformulated gasoline. There can be differences in heating values among batches of gasoline from the same refinery or among brands of gasoline from different refiners because of compositional differences. The differences are small and there is no practical way for the consumer to identify the gasoline with a higher heating value. ---CHEVRON

Here is a good link to understand the true nitty gritty. Read page 7. In the end, it is really all about how much heat you can get from the fuel. Density is important, less important on fuel injection, and cold fuel is more dense. Burn rates come into play as does octane but more for torque. Higher octanes have additives to clean and so forth, so this can be less gasoline and lower heat outputs. Supposedly, the detergents now must be in all grades, so this factor may be less important circa 2014.

Read page 7

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...Bi75z4JLt5iKunQ&bvm=bv.75775273,d.aWw&cad=rja

And more to make your head hurt.

http://www.racegas.com/article/index

Once you bring in Specific Gravity of the fuel, and how lower SG numbers typically indicate hydrocarbon content and power it becomes a method of find what works best and don't change.

I do want to clarify my statement about octanes and burn speed. Burn speed is controlled somewhat by pressure, not so much fuel but octane. Typically a higher compression will see higher octane, resulting in a net engine running slower burn speed.

Years ago I had SG gages, I took a look tonight and can't find them. Guessing I gave them away. I wish now I could see what SG Chevron 87 is compared to 93.

Then again, all this petro chemical stuff gets complicated and long. Think I just want to ride. The engine is stock, runs well, pulls hard and mileage is ok. I do twist the grip so I never see the numbers of drops per mile other do.

Have fun, Mike, at this point I'm at the limits of my basic knowledge of fuel and how it works in engines. I will share, that on race bikes, we had a dyno, dialed in cams, ran the same VP or Sunoco fuel. The fuel was consistent, and allowed us to optimize carb settings and ignition timing timing. To do it proper, requires time and effort. Don't forget money. Like Bob mentioned in the drag racing topic, sometimes cubic dollars. Sad part was, the race bikes had to be a total package for the rider. Sometimes we built killer ridable engines and other times HP kings, problem was, could the rider handle the HP they bought. Going faster with the same rider was easier with serious work on the suspension, fork offsets, and day of race dialing in. Power wise, it was sometimes better to spend the time building a low friction gearbox to get power to the ground. These were sponsored rider motocross and supercross machines.

Interesting stuff, but complicated.

PK
 
.....Paul probably the most intelligent answer on Octane I've ever encountered ........Bravo.....Very well done ..............Unfortunately I can only get gas with Ethyl in it so I add an appropriate amount of " STARTRON " ..............My main question however was ..................What will happen to the 1330 engine if you don't use 91 Octane and use 87 instead ................Just an educated guess from you will suffice...........................and since you may not have read my post with some important info........My friend and mechanic with 45 yrs experience some of them in the Pro Drag circuit ......Took my RT out ( that had been getting 87 oct. for 5 tank fulls ) and load tested it to see what it would take to set the KNOCK-SENSORS off ........He said " It took a lot to set them off " more than any normal riding would do , even passing as long as you downshifted intelligently when needed..................Personally I have not detected them activating using 87 Octane. If there is any less performance I'm not noticing that either ........If I was racing this thing I would be using 91 octane ..........Mike

Want to add, adding Startron may change the levels of hydrocarbons stuff, and lower the SG, which may be why you are seeing performance you are seeing.

If you want to screw around, I have been informed that xylene will make power. Ending in "ene", indicates it is related to a Benzene molecule and this is another why to increase the thrill,,,

One reason they test fuels or in Kart racing suck all the tanks dry, shake the drum and refill all the tanks. They are also tech item to sniff the oil on a winning Kart. Run a loose bore and soft rings, find a four stroke oil such as Mobil One that can handle premixing stuff like nitro methane in small amounts. It blows by the rings and is burnt making power. Yes this is not legal. Oddly, with Methanol fuel, I was able to build engines that outran the the nitro cheaters. It all came down to hand made tools to dial in the ignition timing to numbers we were told by respected engine builders could not be run. I knew we sorted it when the driver reported shaking the tires off the corners, which it never did before. The engines had more pull through the mid, but less peak rpm by a couple hundred I guess. Single speed so we used faster corner exit speeds to carry straightaway speed pulling more gear in the torque range. The faster corner speed and better pull allowed the ability to make passes coming off the corner.

So it;'s not always just the fuel. BTW, I don't like methanol setups.

PK
 
Checked Startron MSDS

Greater than 75% Heavy Naptha. Unless the unknown 25% is magic, this is expensive for Naptha. It will work as advertised.

Not sure but I believe Naptha is slow burning so the octane of your fuel may have been increased

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...rxCcGD04C0LiZ8lZpEWvmkg&bvm=bv.75775273,d.aWw

A quick wikki check says Naptha is a primary component of high octane gasoline.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha

If you have not made a comparison, maybe run a tank or two of non treated fuel and then switch back. I have no idea, of exact numbers, but the lighter Hydrocarbons and increased potential could have you converting 87 to something closer to the mid grade gasolines.

All speculation, so don't make this part of the bet...

PK
 
DOUBLE WOOOOOOOOOOW

.............Paul I won't even pretend to think I can understand all that you have told us......But i will read further ............Premium gas in my area ( 91 oct ) averages .50 more than reg 87 oct.......so Yes that's only $ 3.00 per tank or $70 to $80 per season.....Can I afford it ,,sure ................I just have a real problem with spending money ......... " "unnecessarily "..... I have built Three trailer towing hitches for my Spyders , I could have spent extra money for thicker steel like 3/16, or 1/4 inch ....but I didn't ...I used 1/8 inch and just gusseted the corners.......Because I know what weight I can tow , so why overdo it ......................Sorry for the rant so-to-speak ......Thanks again for your input..Mike :thumbup:
 
.............Paul I won't even pretend to think I can understand all that you have told us......But i will read further ............Premium gas in my area ( 91 oct ) averages .50 more than reg 87 oct.......so Yes that's only $ 3.00 per tank or $70 to $80 per season.....Can I afford it ,,sure ................I just have a real problem with spending money ......... " "unnecessarily "..... I have built Three trailer towing hitches for my Spyders , I could have spent extra money for thicker steel like 3/16, or 1/4 inch ....but I didn't ...I used 1/8 inch and just gusseted the corners.......Because I know what weight I can tow , so why overdo it ......................Sorry for the rant so-to-speak ......Thanks again for your input..Mike :thumbup:

In a nutshell, it gets very complicated, and confusing. I am no expert on petro chemistry. I rather spin a wrench and understand a machine than sort out fuels.

Getting to your rant, having done aircraft structures and composites since 1981, your comments on thinner steel are fine, and you know the expected limits and with quality design, strength over th entire part comes. Heavy steel in the entire design can show weaknesses to other items. Like the fuel it can get complicated.

Regardless I have been very fortunate to meet, talk, and work with some very smart people that made me learn a lot. Awesome experiences but sometimes to much knowledge hurts the brain.

PK
 
93 octane but I'm going to try some non-ethanol on my next fill up. Getting 35 mpg on my '14 RT-L with mostly Interstate miles.
 
:agree:...............In an earlier much more detailed explanation about using 87 Octane in the 1330 engine I stated .......If you plan to ride with a Fully loaded trailer and carry a passenger I would advise using 91 octane and also not running in ECO mode .......................Because otherwise it will activate the ANTI-KNOCK feature built in to the computer system..........................You welcome .....Michael So does anyone have an opinion about what will happen to the ( 1330 ) engine if you choose not to use ...91 octane :hun:


Likely no damage to the engine other than possible carbon build up due to the reduced timing. It WILL reduce performance. The engine has knock sensors so you will never hear ping, heck it could likely run on 85 octane without damage. The reduced timing WILL reduce performance, especially noticeable in low end torque.

I will keep filling mine with premium. Chevron or Shell if I can find it. It runs better and I appreciate the available thrust from the right hand grip.....
 
.....Paul probably the most intelligent answer on Octane I've ever encountered ........Bravo.....Very well done ..............Unfortunately I can only get gas with Ethyl in it so I add an appropriate amount of " STARTRON " ..............My main question however was ..................What will happen to the 1330 engine if you don't use 91 Octane and use 87 instead ................Just an educated guess from you will suffice...........................and since you may not have read my post with some important info........My friend and mechanic with 45 yrs experience some of them in the Pro Drag circuit ......Took my RT out ( that had been getting 87 oct. for 5 tank fulls ) and load tested it to see what it would take to set the KNOCK-SENSORS off ........He said " It took a lot to set them off " more than any normal riding would do , even passing as long as you downshifted intelligently when needed..................Personally I have not detected them activating using 87 Octane. If there is any less performance I'm not noticing that either ........If I was racing this thing I would be using 91 octane ..........Mike

You negated your own test. The bike had already dialed back the timing for the 87 octane gas. Now if you had been running 93 octane for 5 tanks, then filled with 87 and run the test, the change during the first 10 to 15 minutes of operation would have been quite detectable. Don't know how you were monitoring the knock sensors but the shift in the timing tables is accomplished over time. Hit the knock sensor it dials back the table. Dont hit the sensor for a while it starts shifting it back up until it does hit once in a while. Works much like the O2 sensors re calibrating the fuel mix, its a long term trim. It only takes immediate response if the knock sensors go off repeatedly.

The fact remains, the engine has the compression and tuning to take advantage of 93 octane gas. BRP requires 91 as a minimum but it does protect itself from owners doing what they want anyway. Its your bike, use what you will but there IS a difference between the fuels in this case.
 
My book says: inside North America 87 or higher
Outside North America 92 or higher


The owners manual is out of date, that was info for the older bikes. The correct info for your bike is on the label under your seat. BRP has confirmed it takes precedence over what was in the manual.
 
MAYBE THIS ????

You negated your own test. The bike had already dialed back the timing for the 87 octane gas. Now if you had been running 93 octane for 5 tanks, then filled with 87 and run the test, the change during the first 10 to 15 minutes of operation would have been quite detectable. Don't know how you were monitoring the knock sensors but the shift in the timing tables is accomplished over time. Hit the knock sensor it dials back the table. Dont hit the sensor for a while it starts shifting it back up until it does hit once in a while. Works much like the O2 sensors re calibrating the fuel mix, its a long term trim. It only takes immediate response if the knock sensors go off repeatedly.

The fact remains, the engine has the compression and tuning to take advantage of 93 octane gas. BRP requires 91 as a minimum but it does protect itself from owners doing what they want anyway. Its your bike, use what you will but there IS a difference between the fuels in this case.
...........................................................................I think I did the test correctly.....When I purchased the bike in Ill. ,I drove it home approx. 1300 mi. and ONLY used 91 and / or above Octane for that mileage.........I then dropped down to 89 Octane and didn't notice any difference for another 1000 mi.or so .....then I asked my mechanic/ best friend ( Andy ) the " what if question " about the octane thing .......He told me in order to get an accurate assessment on the 87 octane thing .....either flush the system of gas ...or run 4 or 5 tankfuls of 87 thru the system. We didn't want to know what the engine would do on 88 octane ........And as I said earlier if was racing this Spyder I would absolutely be using 91 Octane ......but I'm not ......and I'm not activating the Knock correction features built into the 1330 ace..............and based on what Paul ( PMK ) has said about this and ( Andy ) I'm not worried........We'll check the plugs at 15,000 or so and see what they look like .....maybe earlier if I'm in there for some reason.........And thanks for stepping up and answering the question.................Mike
 
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