What tools will I need to install the swaybar

[Mazo EMS2]

I have BajaRon's swaybar coming and I plan to install it on Sunday while I'm on call at our EMS station. Sooooo, I won't have my toolbox with me. Who can give me a list of the tools I'll need to do the swap? I did the swap on my previous Spyder without any issues, but I don't remember what all I used to do it. I'll have my motorcycle lift with me and my jack stands.

 

[SteveLaoyster]

Some of the tupperware needs to come off. I did mine with the spyder's tool kit and a ratchet with metric sockets. Also something to get the plastic pins out. Do you have a way to get the front up about 2 feet? I rented a pair of loading ramps. I used wheel chocks too. Safety first!!! I loosened stuff up first before I put it up the ramps. Good luck!

 

[irvin48]

have a set of metric wrenches and sockets too . i used 1/4 inch drive stuff cause its
easier to get into some of the tight spots. make sure you get it up high enough
n the air. i think there are some videoes you can pull up to watch that are helpful. thats
what i did.
hhhmm. getting paid to play!! good 4 u.

ithink you need 10 and 13 mm sockets and ratchet.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked:
A First Aid Kit
A cell-phone with 911 already pre-dialed
Several friends with digital cameras
A six-pack of beer for each of them
Your favorite brand of Distilled Spirits
Several large towels
and a platter of cheese and meat! :thumbup:

 

[irvin48]

:shocked:
A First Aid Kit
A cell-phone with 911 already pre-dialed
Several friends with digital cameras
A six-pack of beer for each of them
Your favorite brand of Distilled Spirits
Several large towels
and a platter of cheese and meat! :thumbup:

you forgot baja rons ph # too.

 

[Dmetcalf]

I'm new so please forgive my ignorance but ...

Does our Spyder come standard with a swaybar ..? If so, what's the difference between the stock swaybar and the RJ swaybar..?
thanks for not flaming me with this question.

 

[Bike-O-Din]

One more thing...

This is like plumbing projects. No matter how much you take with you, you will no doubt need just one more thing that you forgot to bring along.

I did not notice that anyone said to bring along a light of some kind to see what you are doing. Just a thought.

No sweat project, and well worth the effort.

 

[Bob Denman]

you forgot baja rons ph # too.

:shocked: :banghead:
You ALSO need to have a friend along, who'll remind you of the REALLY important stuff that you forgot! :clap: :thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

Does our Spyder come standard with a swaybar ..? If so, what's the difference between the stock swaybar and the RJ swaybar..?
thanks for not flaming me with this question.

All of the Spyders come with an anti-swaybar.
The thing is: BRP tuned the suspension for a very compliant ride, and sort of forgot about those of us who'd like the bike to actually handle well also. :banghead:
Ron's bar is stiffer, so that it reduces the tendency of the bike to lean over in the corners! :thumbup:

 

[Peteoz]

Does our Spyder come standard with a swaybar ..? If so, what's the difference between the stock swaybar and the RJ swaybar..?
thanks for not flaming me with this question.

Bob has summed up very succinctly, D. This is NOT a flame, but it would be well worth your while to do a forum search on Swaybar or Ronbar or Stabilizer bar or similar as there is a huge amount of info on the stiffer stabiliser bar and how it works, out there:thumbup:

Pete

 

[finless]

This will give you the idea. BUT understand your year it has to be jacked up to 19" minimum (as I recall) to get the bar in and out of the channel.

Bob

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Well, I appreciate all the tips, even Bob Denman's....LOL....I managed to have a couple hrs to work on it today after work, so, it's done!! Pretty easy job, but a little more difficult than the 2010 was. Now, I need time to test it out...:yes:Tools I used, (in case someone has the same idea)

13mm socket and wrench
10mm socket and wrench
small screw driver for the push pin rivets
1/4" drive ratchet and extension to get to that pesky little bolt holding the grills in
a lift of course and some jack stands
a light

 

[irvin48]

go enjoy. i dont know if mine made a BIG difference but we are always
2 up and pushing 370# or so combined weight. we try not to ride too agressively.
[wife wont let me].

 

[Bob Denman]

Well, I appreciate all the tips, even Bob Denman's....LOL....I managed to have a couple hrs to work on it today after work, so, it's done!! Pretty easy job, but a little more difficult than the 2010 was. Now, I need time to test it out...:yes:Tools I used, (in case someone has the same idea)

13mm socket and wrench
10mm socket and wrench
small screw driver for the push pin rivets
1/4" drive ratchet and extension to get to that pesky little bolt holding the grills in
a lift of course and some jack stands
a light

:clap: :congrats: :firstplace:
Now all that we need, is your "Report From The Saddle"! opcorn:

 

[wetmountainman]

Well, I appreciate all the tips, even Bob Denman's....LOL....I managed to have a couple hrs to work on it today after work, so, it's done!! Pretty easy job, but a little more difficult than the 2010 was. Now, I need time to test it out...:yes:Tools I used, (in case someone has the same idea)

13mm socket and wrench
10mm socket and wrench
small screw driver for the push pin rivets
1/4" drive ratchet and extension to get to that pesky little bolt holding the grills in
a lift of course and some jack stands
a light

What year is your Spyder? What grills do you refer to?

 

[Mazo EMS2]

What year is your Spyder? What grills do you refer to?

2016 RTS. The grills are the two black plastic ones up underneath. Taking them out just makes it easier to gain access. Like anything else, the job was a bit tedious, but definitely not difficult.. Patience is a virtue:sour:

 

[newbert]

All of the Spyders come with an anti-swaybar.
The thing is: BRP tuned the suspension for a very compliant ride, and sort of forgot about those of us who'd like the bike to actually handle well also. :banghead:
Ron's bar is stiffer, so that it reduces the tendency of the bike to lean over in the corners! :thumbup:

Would you say that "handling well" = "less complaint"? If so, does that mean the ride is rougher on uneven roads?

I'm thinking of having one of these installed on my 2016 F3-T -- What would including the "BILLET ALUMINUM END LINKS" in the installation accomplish?

Thanks!

 

[Peteoz]

Would you say that "handling well" = "less complaint"? If so, does that mean the ride is rougher on uneven roads?

I'm thinking of having one of these installed on my 2016 F3-T -- What would including the "BILLET ALUMINUM END LINKS" in the installation accomplish?

Thanks!

I don't want to speak for Bob, Newbert, but my personal experience is that the stabiliser bar doesn't affect the "ride" per say, but simply reduces body roll. It's a lot more complex than that of course, but you get the idea. The "ride" is no different on uneven roads, but I find the F3 more planted.

The billet links that come with Ron's bar are made of sterner stuff than the stock BRP plastic links. They are part of the Bajaron purchase, so there is no reason NOT to put them on :thumbup:

Pete

 

[BajaRon]

Would you say that "handling well" = "less complaint"? If so, does that mean the ride is rougher on uneven roads?

I'm thinking of having one of these installed on my 2016 F3-T -- What would including the "BILLET ALUMINUM END LINKS" in the installation accomplish?

Thanks!

Technically, yes. The suspension will be less compliant with a stiffer sway bar installed. The key here is that a stiffer sway bar does not translate into a stiffer ride like a stiffer coil spring would certainly do.

So, if you were riding your Spyder off road with large dips and ridges on one side and the opposite on the other side like you might encounter with an ATV, etc., then yes, the lowered compliance would most likely be a negative as long suspension travel is very important in this kind of condition. Especially at speed.

But when you are talking about the relatively short suspension travel needed in street riding. Even on a pot holed surface (unless we are talking 6" + deep pot holes) then the potential reduction in compliance is never actually experienced to any noticeable degree outside of turning or crosswinds. And in these cases, the reduction in compliance is exactly what you are looking for.

Simply put. When you're in heavy off road situations, reduced compliance from a stiff sway bar is a negative. However, on the street, a controlled, targeted reduction in compliance means better traction, better control, more stability and flatter turns. What you want always depends on the conditions you are subjecting the vehicle to.

 

[Bob Denman]

In the really "fun" off-road trails: the anti-swaybar is the first thing runhooked when the pavement ends.
Doing this gives you WAYYYYY.... more independent wheel articulation! :clap::2thumbs: