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What Tire gauge are you all using?

Chupaca said:
JT Machine Shop... Has a dual line single feed balance guage that is the way to go. Inflate both front tires o desiresd pressure and release the bucks and you have equal pressure in both tires. Use one line to do the rear. :2thumbs:
Click to expand...

I also agree that this sounds like a great idea ... unfortunately none of the "JT Machine Shop(s)" in my google search turned up anything like this. Nor could I find anything really on point on Amazon or elsewhere on google. The closest I could find were https://adventure-imports.com/product/indeflate/ which is ridiculously expensive, and this home-made tubing setup for off-road Jeeps that is designed to use with an onboard inflator (but wouldn't have to be): https://trail4runner.com/2018/05/06/diy-4-tire-inflation-system/. The latter seems about ideal if reduced to only two wheels, but naturally being lazy I looked for a similar commercial product and found none. There are lots of tires to help air up "duallies" but none to air up the front wheels equally at the same time ... unless someone here has a good idea.

Seems to me like it would be good to manufacture a commercial product to air up two wheels simultaneously to the exact same pressure. The market would not just be Spyders but all car owners could benefit. Connect the hoses to both front wheels or both back wheels and inflate and equalize them at the same time.

If anyone knows where/how to find such a product -- or has a link to the elusive JT Machine Shop, please let me know.
 
Hi John,

Re: or has a link to the elusive JT Machine Shop, please let me know.

OK, you own me a drink as this was a tuff one to find:

http://www.spyderstore.com/

Jerry Baumchen

PS) I have one of his air filters but it has nothing about him on it. I'll keep this info for future reference.
 
P.W. said:
Hello all,
What are you all using for a accurate tire pressure gauge and where did you buy it from?

Thanks for your time and help!
P.W.
Click to expand...
I use this one: TIRE GAUGE.jpg
It's made by Accu-Gage. I like it because I can keep it attached to the tire valve while inflating the tire.
I purchased it from BestRest Products. It comes in two flavors; straight chuck, or right angle chuck.
https://bestrestproducts.com/shop/cyclepump-ez-gauge/cyclepump-expedition-tire-inflator/cyclepump-ez-air-gauge/
 
johnsimion said:
I also agree that this sounds like a great idea ... unfortunately none of the "JT Machine Shop(s)" in my google search turned up anything like this. Nor could I find anything really on point on Amazon or elsewhere on google. The closest I could find were https://adventure-imports.com/product/indeflate/ which is ridiculously expensive, and this home-made tubing setup for off-road Jeeps that is designed to use with an onboard inflator (but wouldn't have to be): https://trail4runner.com/2018/05/06/diy-4-tire-inflation-system/. The latter seems about ideal if reduced to only two wheels, but naturally being lazy I looked for a similar commercial product and found none. There are lots of tires to help air up "duallies" but none to air up the front wheels equally at the same time ... unless someone here has a good idea.

Seems to me like it would be good to manufacture a commercial product to air up two wheels simultaneously to the exact same pressure. The market would not just be Spyders but all car owners could benefit. Connect the hoses to both front wheels or both back wheels and inflate and equalize them at the same time.

If anyone knows where/how to find such a product -- or has a link to the elusive JT Machine Shop, please let me know.
Click to expand...

I made one myself. It was simple and cheap. Just buy the tubing, a "tee", two of the hose ends that clamp on your valve stems, and a fitting to connect to your compressor or hose. Piece of cake and a fraction of the cost. Works great every time
 
Don't get paranoid about trying to match tire pressures to tenths of a PSI between tires. You are not riding/driving a Formula One or NASCAR racing machine at the extreme limits of it's performance curve trying to squeak out the last one-hundredth of a second lap time on your commute to work or even an extended road trip. You will drive yourself crazy, raise your blood pressure, and die earlier than necessary from the stress involved in trying to do that. If I check my tire pressures and one of them dropped 2/10ths of a PSI from the "preferred" pressures, I'm getting on the bike and riding it. I won't get killed because the tires failed because of that. And if one-half of a PSI difference in the tire pressures are "causing riding problems" for you, it has nothing to do with the tire pressures. Something else is wrong.

Just make sure you aren't getting on your Spyder with 12 PSI instead of 18 (or whatever you decide to use) in any of the tires and you'll be fine. I rode to a rally years ago and another rider that arrived said his MC was handling strange. I took out my tire gauge and his 32 PSI recommended radial tire had 14 pounds in it. He had just ridden 700 miles to get to the rally. He had no business owning a MC to begin with.

We aren't the Ferrari or Hendrick's Motorsports racing team drivers riding our Spyders trying to get the maximum one extra tenth of a second performance out of them. Or at least we shouldn't be.
 
I just got a gauge from cycle gear. If you use the same gauge all the time it doesn't matter if it's off a little. Mine reads 1 pound low.
 
Thanks to Chupaca for the initial suggestion and to Jerry for helping find the source of the dual fill gauge and filler hose setup. Jerry's link was a good start but the main store link he provided doesn't work due to a technical issues. Here is a good working link to the specific product I bought: http://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=55

Service from this company seems to be very good, I ordered it last night and it's already being shipped. I'm pretty excited about this (well, as excited as you can get about a pressure gauge and fill lines) because it will be useful not only for the Spyder but also for filling the tires of all three of our other cars. I guess I could have made my own dual-fill line device but I really didn't need an additional project to work on. And sometimes you can spend more time and money gathering all the stuff you need than you would just buying an off-the-shelf product.

I do wish this company would make up their mind(s) about the proper name: Sometimes it's JT, sometimes it's CnC, and the web site is "spyderstore" but the main link doesn't work.
 
JayBros said:
I bought the Accu-Gage in the picture when I bought my Spyder. The right angle chuck makes it very easy to check the rear tire. I have compared it to a digital gage with a chuck that won't allow me to check the rear tire but pressure-wise they agree within a quarter pound of each other.
Click to expand...


I've been using the same gauge for many years now. I'm very happy with it.

With tire pressure gauges, the key is to find one that is consistent. It doesn't have to be 100% accurate. You can use 5 different gauges, and get 5 different readings...the key is to find one and use only that one. If you check you pressure at home, then meet at a friends and use his gauge to recheck, and it reads different....it doesn't necessarily mean that your gauge is wrong.
 
ATC said:
.........snip.....With tire pressure gauges, the key is to find one that is consistent. It doesn't have to be 100% accurate. You can use 5 different gauges, and get 5 different readings...the key is to find one and use only that one. If you check you pressure at home, then meet at a friends and use his gauge to recheck, and it reads different....it doesn't necessarily mean that your gauge is wrong.
Click to expand...


For amost all 'non-professional' motor vehicle users & even for a whole lot of the 'professional' motor vehicle users out there, the underlined bits above are the most important bits - regularly using a CONSISTENT tire pressure gauge is more important than ever using an exactly accurate tire pressure gauge - even discounting who's definition of 'how accurate is deemed to be close enough to exact', we simply don't drive to the nth degree anywhere near enough to need to be exactly accurate with our tire pressures, largely because there are so many variables that we have absolutely no control over built into the vehicle & the way, the when, & on what we use those vehicles that will each have a fairly significant impact on the EXACT pressure our tires start out at or the pressures they reach during use!

Getting your cold start tire pressures into the right zone & then getting fairly close to the appropriate pressure increase after ryding (an increase that reflects the tire reaching or at least getting close to its optimum operating temp without exceeding it too much) is all that we realistically need, just like it is for 99% of pnuematic tire users!! Hey, you can change your EXACT (& short term) tire pressure just by cornering harder or braking harder during the mile or so immediately before you stop & read the tire pressure (or read it off your TPMS) - for that matter, you can change the EXACT tire pressure you read off any gauge just by waiting 1 or 2 minutes after stopping instead of checking your tire pressures immediately upon stopping, but that small variation won't be enough to have significantly changed your overall pressure increase from cold by a 'reasonably measurable' amount on most gauges that are small enough &/or robust enough for you to reasonably be expected to carry one with you! Really accurate air pressure gauges really don't like being moved &/or jostled a heap, and they also tend to take a bit to set up properly & use correctly too!! :rolleyes:

So don't worry too much about the absolute accuracy of any tire pressure gauge you buy or use on your Spyder (or pretty much any other motor vehicle either!) a tire pressure gauge that's robust enough to handle the knocks & bounces it will get if we carry it on or in our Spyders or motor vehicles and yet still remain consistent is more than capable of meeting your tire pressure checking needs! :thumbup:

Ride More, Worry Less!! :ohyea: :2thumbs:
 
Digital gauge by Slime, similar to the OEM gauge. Bought at Walmart in July '13 for $9.60. Measures to .5 lbs only... good enough to get front tires equally "fluffed up." Works fine on rear wheel, too.
 
It would be difficult to tell if you got a really accurate pressure gauge or not without something to test it on. The main thing you want in the pressure gauge is for it to be consistent. If you can check the pressure 5 or 6 times (without releasing a lot of air) and get the same readings, then you have a consistent gauge.
 
Good point. Worth a test. Here are three pressure checks on the rear tire. I decided to try it with the valve towards the top (I usually roll the Spyder to get the valve on the bottom.) IMG_0981.jpgIMG_0982.jpgIMG_0983.jpgIMG_0984.jpg
 
Here is the one that I use on quite a few things. http://www.longacreracing.com/produ...Semi-Pro-Digital-Tire-Pressure-Gauge-0-60-psi

And the story behind it is when I bought it about 4 years ago, I was doing a lot of motorcycle track days and running Michelin race tires. Tire temperatures can, do, and should sometimes reach into the 210 degree F range and tire pressures are extremely critical for tire wear and the ability to stick in a corner. The rear tire I was running would work great, unless you got it over 25 psi (hot temperatures right off of the track, checked with a stick type pyrometer. .2 or .3 psi could be the difference between a $200+ tire lasting all weekend or only one day.

The Longacre tire gauge that I linked to, is guaranteed to be accurate to within 1/2 of 1%. 30 psi for example.....1% of that amount is .3 psi. 1/2 of that 1% is .15 psi. Just to make sure I was getting what I paid for, I took the gauge to work with me one day and we have a metrology lab there with a machine that costs well over $100,000 and is Federally certified each and every year for accuracy to within 1/1000 psi. I had the operator run it from 20 psi up to the limit of 60 psi with 2 psi increments.....20, 22, 24...and so on. Every single incremented stop was within the 1/2 of 1% accuracy...all the way to 60 psi. Of course my need for that type of pressure gauge for what I do now is non existent, but hey, I've got it already and I use it for anything that doesn't go over 60 psi. And as far as the probe pyrometer, that is actually stuck into the tire to get the reading so that you are not reading tire surface temperatures.
 
Using the FOBO2 TPMS system saves me from having to use a gauge to check the pressure. I like the way my Spyder handles with about 2 psi higher than the recommended pressures, i.e. 20 in front and 30 in the rear. And I hate having to lie down on the ground to get to the rear tire. So typically about twice a year I have to add a few pounds of pressure. The TPMS system tells me about the slight loss of air pressure over time and after several months I have to add some air to all three tires, hence the twice a year routine. I use a decent stick tire gauge that has an angled head, making it easy to use. Then I hook up my digital electric air pump and compare the pressure indicated. This cheap air pump typically reads about 2 pounds over the reading on the stick gauge, so to get 30 in the rear tire, I normally set the pump to stop at 32. Then I check it again with the stick gauge. Its all a bit of a pain but doing this once each Fall and once each Spring is tolerable. FWIW, I can't imagine spending $100 on a tire pressure gauge.
 
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