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What oil do you use on your Spyder?

Why use 10W40 when the manual says to use 5W40? It cracks me up when people say they use it with "no issues." Maybe years down the road the 2nd or 3rd owner will experience the "issues."

There are actually a number of good reasons to use 10w-40 as opposed to a 5w-40.

1- The larger the gap between the low number and the high number, the less stable an oil is. If you are using a mineral oil with an additive package (which is what most 'Synthetic' labeled motor oils are), it takes more additive to get this wider spread. Additives are there to protect the weaker mineral oil molecules from shearing and other forces which break the oil molecules down and degrade their lubricating properties. Additives are not lubricants, and they do break down. Once these protective additives start to go away, the weak mineral oil molecules tend to lose integrity quickly. This is why the BRP oils tend to shear down to 20 weight at around 5,000 miles according to the oil analysis testing we've seen.

2- The low number of these 2 is only designed to give a relative viscosity at cold start-up. While cold start-up viscosity is important, it only needs to be thin enough to deliver adequate lubrication to vital parts during this very short period of time. If you are storing your Spyder in sub-zero temperatures, then a 5w oil would certainly be advantageous. However, it is probably a very rare Spyder which ever sees this kind of cold start-up temperature. This means that you are sacrificing at least some stability for a cold start-up viscosity that you will never need.

It is also interesting to note that true synthetic oils like Amsoil, Schaeffer, etc., being engineered at the molecular level during the refinement process have much stronger molecules. This is why they are able to achieve multiple viscosities and are inherently more stable and able to resist shearing and other destructive environments with minimal additives. We consistantly see Amsoil tests coming back in the low to mid 30's at 10k as opposed to BRP and other oils at 20w at the same mileage.

If you really want to know what is going on with your oil, have it tested. It's easy and not that expensive. And then you don't have to take someone else's word for it. But be prepared. The results may surprise you.

People truly do get personally invested in their brand and the oil debate will certainly rage on. I do not expect that my 2 cents will change anything. But it is always an interesting discussion.
 
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Another vote for Amsoil 10W40. But I have used Royal Purple as well. I think any good synthetic (with the right specs)is a wise choice. Just my 2 cents!
 
Why use 10W40 when the manual says to use 5W40? It cracks me up when people say they use it with "no issues." Maybe years down the road the 2nd or 3rd owner will experience the "issues."

Probably not, todays oils are excellent and if you use the correct weight and change it accordingly all JASO oils will be fine. People buy into the hype instead of the facts and the fact is "Name brand, wet clutch compatible. BAM good to go". My Uncle had an old 60's Galaxy 500 that ran 300,000+ miles before the frame rusted and broke in the 1970's running Quaker State oil without "issues". Turns out with those miles he was, in a way the 2nd, 3rd and maybe 4th owner.
 
Probably not, todays oils are excellent and if you use the correct weight and change it accordingly all JASO oils will be fine. People buy into the hype instead of the facts and the fact is "Name brand, wet clutch compatible. BAM good to go". My Uncle had an old 60's Galaxy 500 that ran 300,000+ miles before the frame rusted and broke in the 1970's running Quaker State oil without "issues". Turns out with those miles he was, in a way the 2nd, 3rd and maybe 4th owner.

Not necessarily true. There are JASO MA2 oils out there that will slip the clutch on a 998 because of additives not conducive to this clutch. It is important for different model Spyder owners to know what specific needs their Spyder has and not assume that all Spyders are created equal. The 1330, on the other hand, is engineered to have a much more tolerant clutch mechanism and will work fine with lubricants that would slip the clutch on a 998.
 
Not necessarily true. There are JASO MA2 oils out there that will slip the clutch on a 998 because of additives not conducive to this clutch. It is important for different model Spyder owners to know what specific needs their Spyder has and not assume that all Spyders are created equal. The 1330, on the other hand, is engineered to have a much more tolerant clutch mechanism and will work fine with lubricants that would slip the clutch on a 998.

Examples?
 
[SIZE
OIL --we don't need no stinking OIL. We run em till they quit then use em for a boat anchor!

By the way what kind of tires youse guys using? :joke:

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

Jack[/SIZE]
 
How many PSI do you run your Oil at,....and what Viscosity do you put in your tires? 🤓
007James

[SIZE
OIL --we don't need no stinking OIL. We run em till they quit then use em for a boat anchor!

By the way what kind of tires youse guys using? :joke:

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

Jack[/SIZE]
 
OIL --we don't need no stinking OIL. We run em till they quit then use em for a boat anchor!

By the way what kind of tires youse guys using? :joke:

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

Jack

Sounds like a new thread is in order.:D
 
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I saw no mention of Rotella T-6. It's JASO-MA2 rated as a motorcycle oil. I'm new to the world of Spyders, but an old hand with motorcycles and I have found T-6 to be very advantageous for clutches, trannys, lifters and engine protection. A heavier additive package makes it a long term oil. No, I don't sell it or have stock in the company, just a satisfied customer. I have a friend with a 990 RT who uses RT and likes the results.
 
I saw no mention of Rotella T-6. It's JASO-MA2 rated as a motorcycle oil. I'm new to the world of Spyders, but an old hand with motorcycles and I have found T-6 to be very advantageous for clutches, trannys, lifters and engine protection. A heavier additive package makes it a long term oil. No, I don't sell it or have stock in the company, just a satisfied customer. I have a friend with a 990 RT who uses RT and likes the results.

Well I also use ( as do hundreds of other folks on this Forum ) ………. and Rotella is repeating their FANTASTIC Re-bate they had in 2018 , there is a LINK posted in another similar thread ……. Mike :ohyea:.....You can find the link in post #7 of the Rotella Oil Rebate - Thread ...do a search …. Mike
 
Well I also use ( as do hundreds of other folks on this Forum ) ………. and Rotella is repeating their FANTASTIC Re-bate they had in 2018 , there is a LINK posted in another similar thread ……. Mike :ohyea:.....You can find the link in post #7 of the Rotella Oil Rebate - Thread ...do a search …. Mike
I shoulda looked farther back to earlier posts before I posted that.
I just sold my last two wheeler, a 2010 Victory Cross Roads I bought new. Of course, it came with the factory Vic oil and the lifters would rattle on cold starts and the shifting was clunky. Other Vic owners said the same. I switched to Rotella T-6 and both of those improved; quiet lifters and smoother shifting. Inadvertently, one time I ran the oil over 7K miles and being worried, I sent in a sample for analysis. The report came back A+ and said there's 3K more miles left on it. That convinced me to stick with Rotella.
 
FYI>>>> Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W/40 On sale at amazon....40 Bucks a 6 pack delivered. Cant beat this price on a fine motorcycle oil.
 
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