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Warning about the new Fox shocks

I did some research on these as a dealer came back to me telling of the same calibration issue if you didn't have a 11 or 12 model year,as stated in Lamonts post.BRP's online parts finder lists two part number's for 2010's on the stock shocks [early,late release].The spring numbers are the same.So some people with a later release 2010 may also be able to use them as it is the same number as the 2011.How you know if you have a early or late release is not known.
How does this time travel thing work...an 08 in 04 signature.
 
Elkas -sway bar and picking up front wheels . . .

Have both the Elkas and the performance sway bars on our RT and RS - I have managed to pick up a front wheel on the RT 3 times now at slower speeds with out the nanny kicking in. These were tight and off camber turns. Another Spyder pilot thought I was showing off (pulling out on to the highway from a driveway) . . . it has always been the left front that picks up, but I think that is because I tend to turn harder in that direction . . . any thoughts?
 
Have both the Elkas and the performance sway bars on our RT and RS - I have managed to pick up a front wheel on the RT 3 times now at slower speeds with out the nanny kicking in. These were tight and off camber turns. Another Spyder pilot thought I was showing off (pulling out on to the highway from a driveway) . . . it has always been the left front that picks up, but I think that is because I tend to turn harder in that direction . . . any thoughts?

What you may want to do is to remove 1 turn of preload on the spring to allow the outside suspension to "travel" more as it is compressing to prevent the inside wheel from lifting.

With the shocks you should have received two small tools: 1 X 3mm allen key, and a steel bar shaped like a hockey stick. On the preload ring ( red ring at the top of the spring), unscrew the lock nut with the allen key and rotate the preload ring towards the right with the steel bar tool to take some preload off of the spring. This should allow the outside wheel in a tight turn to travel more to absorb more of the weight transfer.

If you need more explanation, its a free call to my office direct: 1-800-557-0552 ext 257. Operators are standing by. ;)
 
I guess that I'm just dumber than most folks... How can a change of shock/swaybar/tire "trip up" the V.S.S.? To my VERY simple mind; if Nanny gets a reading that isn't what she wants, then she'll put the "Whoa!" to you... If a shock or swaybar decreases lean angles, or a tire gives you a different amount of available traction, it'll take longer to reach those programmed limits and wouldn't she just hold off the screaming for a bit longer. I think Ron mentioned that once she does get involved, it's more pronounced since you're probably already closer to the edge...
She only gets cranky when parameters are exceeded... How you get there is up to you! :thumbup:
(Now if she kills me next week after the tire change..."Never Mind..." :roflblack:)
 
What I know is the OEM 2008 RS shocks looks like that after 24 K miles nojoke:

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