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Warning about the new Fox shocks
- Thread starter Lamonster
- Start date
lightman02
New member
This is the official statement from BRP. You could say the same for any aftermarket shock that is changed out on your RS/GS or RT. As you know I've not had an issue but I thought this is something you should know anyway.
Can the 2008-2010 be properly re-calibrated through a software update???
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
I think it's a lot more involved than that. It has to go though testing on those year models and have approval. I think this more of a legal thing than anything but as you know it hasn't stopped me from changing my shocks. :doorag:
lightman02
New member
Gotcha, I was just wondering.
IWN2RYD
New member
This is just a CYA for BRP... I mean really... Who here has gone to their Dealer and had the Computer re-programmed after replacing their shocks to Elka's or heck even putting RT shocks on an RS?
Very pleased to see the warning, but in all reality there should not be any alarm...nojoke:2thumbs:
Very pleased to see the warning, but in all reality there should not be any alarm...nojoke:2thumbs:
lightman02
New member
Part of replacing the front shocks for many of us was to shut the nanny up anyway--- don't need no stinkin' new calibraion!
I just hope she doesn't start getting louder. That would be bad if it makes it more sensitive, however less sensitive would be nice.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
There is no "re-programming" that can be done when you change shocks or for that matter tires that are not OEM. The VSS is calibrated to those tires and shocks and changing them changes the calibration. Like I said it hasn't stopped me from making changes but I'm doing it at my own risk.
I guess that depends on your dealer. Most dealers like Cowtown don't have a problem with it.
Nope but you have a part number now for the kit so make a phone call and let us know.
Raptor
New member
Well, they look pretty good. At least they are offering an alternative, even though they say only for 2011-2012 models. Since the physical platform is the same and I am guessing they are using the same ECU type there is no reason why my ECU couldn't be flashed to match the 2011/2012 ECU. To my knowlege the new RS machines have no new sensors added above and beyond what the rest of us have.
But I agree with Dan that no recalibration would be needed anyway. As long as it keeps body roll in check and provides good ride feel and damping (which equates to keeping Ms. Nanny less active) I'd have no problem putting them on 14. After all, the RT shocks are not gong to last forever and the 2010 RT shocks won't be available any more when mine do wear out. Just gotta see what these babies cost...
But I agree with Dan that no recalibration would be needed anyway. As long as it keeps body roll in check and provides good ride feel and damping (which equates to keeping Ms. Nanny less active) I'd have no problem putting them on 14. After all, the RT shocks are not gong to last forever and the 2010 RT shocks won't be available any more when mine do wear out. Just gotta see what these babies cost...
IWN2RYD
New member
There is no "re-programming" that can be done when you change shocks or for that matter tires that are not OEM. The VSS is calibrated to those tires and shocks and changing them changes the calibration. Like I said it hasn't stopped me from making changes but I'm doing it at my own risk.
Sorry Lamonster... I should have mentioned that. I did not mean to imply there was one... I was just highlighting that no one has and we cannot if we wanted to... I just took a different route... :doorag:
lightman02
New member
Actually the VSS is controled by the antilock brake system which is part of the Bosch system and not the ECM. The Bosch module is not able to be directly updated by BUDS such as the other modules are. I believe this is why it's only 2011/2012 as they must be using newer software in the antilock brake controller for 2011/2012.
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Raptor
New member
pps:
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BajaRon
Well-known member
Anything that changes suspension or traction will, in effect, lie to the Nanny.
Like the performance sway bar. The Nanny has lean angle as one of her parameters. The sway bar makes the Spyder corner with much less lean for the same centrifugal force. So the Nanny will hold off longer thinking that less lean means less danger of losing control.
Add performance shocks and higher traction tires and you compound this effect.
Since changing the shocks and sway bar, I have noticed the Nanny waits longer to jump on me when I'm riding hard. And when she does come in it is more abrupt and forceful. You can only fool her to a point. When she discovers what you are really doing she feels the need to be more agressive.
It is a good idea to take it easy and explore the limits and get a feel for the new handling characterists of any suspension/traction mod before you ride it hard. You've changed things and you don't want to be surprised.
You can go faster before you reach the point of losing control. But the break will come with less warning and be more abrupt than with the stock configuration. In other words, you have to pay more attention and you are more likely to exceed the limitations of the Nanny protecting you. Though I must say, she still does a very good job.
When I was stock I could easily raise the inside tire. In a controlled turn the tire would come up gradually and predictably. It sometimes came up 5 or 6 inches but looked more dangerous that it actually was. I never felt like I was near any 'edge' of losing control.
Now it is rare for me to raise a tire. I have to be cornering pretty hard. When it does come up it is only an inch or 2 at most and I feel much closer to 'the edge' of control. But more often, instead of raising the inside tire, I will actually drift all 3 tires (which never happened on good pavement with the stock setup).
It's not much drift and it usually doesn't last long, (a second or two - like hitting a patch of sand). Then you have to be ready when the tires bite again because that can also get your attention. The rear usually breaks first and also hooks up first. That's the most intimidating part of this senario.
Like the performance sway bar. The Nanny has lean angle as one of her parameters. The sway bar makes the Spyder corner with much less lean for the same centrifugal force. So the Nanny will hold off longer thinking that less lean means less danger of losing control.
Add performance shocks and higher traction tires and you compound this effect.
Since changing the shocks and sway bar, I have noticed the Nanny waits longer to jump on me when I'm riding hard. And when she does come in it is more abrupt and forceful. You can only fool her to a point. When she discovers what you are really doing she feels the need to be more agressive.
It is a good idea to take it easy and explore the limits and get a feel for the new handling characterists of any suspension/traction mod before you ride it hard. You've changed things and you don't want to be surprised.
You can go faster before you reach the point of losing control. But the break will come with less warning and be more abrupt than with the stock configuration. In other words, you have to pay more attention and you are more likely to exceed the limitations of the Nanny protecting you. Though I must say, she still does a very good job.
When I was stock I could easily raise the inside tire. In a controlled turn the tire would come up gradually and predictably. It sometimes came up 5 or 6 inches but looked more dangerous that it actually was. I never felt like I was near any 'edge' of losing control.
Now it is rare for me to raise a tire. I have to be cornering pretty hard. When it does come up it is only an inch or 2 at most and I feel much closer to 'the edge' of control. But more often, instead of raising the inside tire, I will actually drift all 3 tires (which never happened on good pavement with the stock setup).
It's not much drift and it usually doesn't last long, (a second or two - like hitting a patch of sand). Then you have to be ready when the tires bite again because that can also get your attention. The rear usually breaks first and also hooks up first. That's the most intimidating part of this senario.
retiredsquid
New member
I don't know about other folks here, but installing Elka shocks has vastly improved my satisfaction level with the Spyder. The originally shocks were just too soft, even cranked up. I am sure my dealer's service tech with have something to say when he services it next time. If he wants to attempt to void my warranty over it, then we can take on the fight at that time, because I am not going to go back to stock. I live just off of Arkansas Highway 62 west of Eureka Springs and anyone familiar with the area knows the tight curves we have and Elka shocks made all the difference in the world for handling for me.
So far I've never had the nanny scream at me.
So far I've never had the nanny scream at me.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I can not imagine a senario where any warranty would be compromised by changing to Elka shocks. I do not think you'll have any issues there.
Still, I had a dealer tell me my DPS unit was not working because I had installed an aftermarket cruise control uint. So you never know. That didn't fly, by the way, but it did take me by surprise.
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Dochands
Member
Quote: There is no "re-programming" that can be done when you change shocks or for that matter tires that are not OEM. The VSS is calibrated to those tires and shocks and changing them changes the calibration. Like I said it hasn't stopped me from making changes but I'm doing it at my own risk.
We're Spyderlovers. That's cause we be livin on the edge. :roflblack::spyder::spyder::roflblack::roflblack:
We're Spyderlovers. That's cause we be livin on the edge. :roflblack::spyder::spyder::roflblack::roflblack:
Just Doo Me
New member
Fox shocks
I did some research on these as a dealer came back to me telling of the same calibration issue if you didn't have a 11 or 12 model year,as stated in Lamonts post.BRP's online parts finder lists two part number's for 2010's on the stock shocks [early,late release].The spring numbers are the same.So some people with a later release 2010 may also be able to use them as it is the same number as the 2011.How you know if you have a early or late release is not known.
I did some research on these as a dealer came back to me telling of the same calibration issue if you didn't have a 11 or 12 model year,as stated in Lamonts post.BRP's online parts finder lists two part number's for 2010's on the stock shocks [early,late release].The spring numbers are the same.So some people with a later release 2010 may also be able to use them as it is the same number as the 2011.How you know if you have a early or late release is not known.
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