Want to kill a few hours.....Change your oil

[ThreeWheels]

I'm sure this has been spoken of many times before, but what a pain it is to change the oil.
2 and a half hours. Now I know that's excessive. A lot of it had to do with selecting the right tools. Some of the star fasteners turned out to be allen screws and vice versa.
Please understand, I've had most of the tupperware off before, so I'm not to adverse to that.
And I know that there is the "learning curve" associated with any effort, but still, I don't see how I can get it done in less than an hour.

Also, does the RT have some sort of level sensor ? To change the oil, I lifted the bike up by putting it on some ramps.
When I started it up again, I got the dreaded limp home mode, the first time I ever saw it (and I hope the last).
I took the RT out in limp mode to check for leaks, and within 30 seconds, the limp mode went away. The only thing I can think of is the angle I had the RT at might have triggered it.

 

[Lamonster]

The only panel I take off when changing my oil is the panel you take off to check your oil. The first time I left the splash pan off so it makes it much faster to change the oil.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=198383&postcount=2
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14647

You had low oil pressure when you first started it and that's why you through a code.

 

[ThreeWheels]

That certainly looks like a better option.
Do you have a lift to get in under the bike and do the oil change ?
I'm not sure I could get access like you did if I just put the Spyder up on the car ramps. I'll check it out next time. Probably the end of May. I'll be heading to the Dragon the second week of May and expect to put about 3K on the Spyder during the trip.
One other question. That splash pan seems to protect the front sprocket and belt. have you had any difficulties from throwing mud or road debris up there?
Not to start another oil thread, but have you increased the mileage between oil changes? Most other vehicles are between 5000 and 7500 miles now. I'm not sure why BRP is still at 3K.
Thanks again

 

[NancysToy]

There doesn't seem to be too much rhyme or reason for the low-oil-pressure triggered limp mode on the RT after changing oil. I have found that it is more likely when you allow the oil to drain a long time, like when you go into the house for lunch. I think the time taken to build oil pressure may be exceeding the short delay (5 seconds?) programmed into the RT before limp mode is triggered. If you are sure you put in oil, and the Spyder makes no ugly sounds like it has no oil pressure, raise the rpm above 3,000 rpm or so, for about 15-20 seconds. That will reset the limp mode warning. Several of us have experienced this, but not necessarily at every oil change.

 

[piernik]

If you start the Spyder and the sensor does not get pressure in 5 seconds it goes into "limp mode". After an oil change I start it and let it run 4 seconds then shut it off and restart while watching the oil light. It usually goes out 2nd or third time and no codes or limp mode to deal with.

 

[clueless]

do you guys prefill the oil filter? is there a way to do that? off to do my first self oil change later this week.

 

[M2Wild]

do you guys prefill the oil filter? is there a way to do that? off to do my first self oil change later this week.

No way to prefill a filter installed side way. When filling the main resovoir, the oil should drian into the filter housing. A few seconds without oil isn't gonna hurt anything.

Oil change is like washing cars. Take your time and inspect the areas you are working on. Tighten any stuff that is loose or its an oppertunity to add things while the panels are off. A few hours of peace and quiet in the garage away from WU is not something you can buy with money.hyea::roflblack:

 

[Dudley]

No way to prefill a filter installed side way. When filling the main resovoir, the oil should drian into the filter housing. A few seconds without oil isn't gonna hurt anything.

Oil change is like washing cars. Take your time and inspect the areas you are working on. Tighten any stuff that is loose or its an oppertunity to add things while the panels are off. A few hours of peace and quiet in the garage away from WU is not something you can buy with money.hyea::roflblack:

I agree. I take 4 hours or more to do my oil changes (I have never timed myself, I just start and when it's done, it's done). I set aside one day to do it. I enjoy doing it, because I know that when I do, it is DONE and done right. It also gives me an opportunity to learn more about our Spyder. Every time I remove a panel I learn something. For me, the Spyder is not a toy, it is a machine that provides me with the only recreation I have ever had for the past 40+ years (riding motorcycles and now the Spyder).

 

[GeoffCee]

My Spyder hasn't even reached its first 600 mile oil change yet but I've already decided that if we go touring in Europe this summer with the RT, the 3000 mile oil change will have to wait until we get home, even if that means running the oil to 4500 miles.

Oil technology never stands still and IMHO 3000 miles between oil and filter changes is a ridiculously small (not to say expensive) limitation to impose on a water cooled engine, given the wear protection offered by modern synthetic oils.

Engines have never had it so good. Time for the Rotax to earn its keep. :clap:

 

[NancysToy]

My Spyder hasn't even reached its first 600 mile oil change yet but I've already decided that if we go touring in Europe this summer with the RT, the 3000 mile oil change will have to wait until we get home, even if that means running the oil to 4500 miles.

Oil technology never stands still and IMHO 3000 miles between oil and filter changes is a ridiculously small (not to say expensive) limitation to impose on a water cooled engine, given the wear protection offered by modern synthetic oils.

Engines have never had it so good. Time for the Rotax to earn its keep. :clap:

In that case, I would consider using a full synthetic for the 600 mile change. They are more forgiving for extended oil change intervals.

 

[Dudley]

My Spyder hasn't even reached its first 600 mile oil change yet but I've already decided that if we go touring in Europe this summer with the RT, the 3000 mile oil change will have to wait until we get home, even if that means running the oil to 4500 miles.

Oil technology never stands still and IMHO 3000 miles between oil and filter changes is a ridiculously small (not to say expensive) limitation to impose on a water cooled engine, given the wear protection offered by modern synthetic oils.

Engines have never had it so good. Time for the Rotax to earn its keep. :clap:

On our trip in 2009 with our 2008 SE5 (13,624 miles) I did the oil change after we got home, around 14,000 miles. I just added oil as I needed along the way (2 quarts over the period).

 

[GeoffCee]

On our trip in 2009 with our 2008 SE5 (13,624 miles) I did the oil change after we got home, around 14,000 miles. I just added oil as I needed along the way (2 quarts over the period).

WOW !!! ...and I thought going fifteen hundred miles over was a tad irresponsible! :roflblack:

 

[GeoffCee]

In that case, I would consider using a full synthetic for the 600 mile change. They are more forgiving for extended oil change intervals.

It will be a full synthetic, carried out by my dealer, there are some other issues needing attention at the same time. From the 600 mile on I intend to do my own oil changes.

 

[M2Wild]

WOW !!! ...and I thought going fifteen hundred miles over was a tad irresponsible! :roflblack:

14+K is a bit more than usual. But syn oil is designed to take the abuse. I use syn oil in all my vehicles and change them out every 10K.

 

[memphisdan]

This brings up an interesting point for me; at the end of May I am going to start a 6,000 mile trip. Prior to leaving I will change oil and filter and will use BRP oil. My question is do I need to find a dealer and get the oil changed during the trip, will I void my warranty if I don't get the oil changed? I am interested in your recommendations.

See you in Cuba:chat:

 

[NancysToy]

This brings up an interesting point for me; at the end of May I am going to start a 6,000 mile trip. Prior to leaving I will change oil and filter and will use BRP oil. My question is do I need to find a dealer and get the oil changed during the trip, will I void my warranty if I don't get the oil changed? I am interested in your recommendations.

See you in Cuba:chat:

You would not automatically void your warranty, but if you had an oil-related failure during the latter part of your trip, they could contest the warranty repairs. If you change the oil and all is well for a number of miles afterwards, they would have a hard time relating it to the tardy oil change. Just my 2¢.

I'd change the oil just before the trip, no matter what the mileage, and use full syn. I doubt you'll have problems that way. Still, many of the BMW riders hit dealers up for oil changes during their lengthy journeys. You may have to hit one for a tire, anyway.

 

[GeoffCee]

My question is do I need to find a dealer and get the oil changed during the trip, will I void my warranty if I don't get the oil changed?

The obvious but necessary observation to make is that your warranty will only kick in if you subsequently make a claim against it to fix an engine problem which is, or could be, related to the milage between oil changes.

So far as I know there are no components in the chemical make up of an engine oil which can indicate for exactly how many miles it has been at work in an engine. There are many variables at work, such as engine revs, environment, ambient temperature, long hauls, stops and starts, etc, which ultimately degrade the effectiveness of an oil over time.

My understanding is that WHO changes the oil is irrelevant but the oil spec, as noted by BRP in the Operator's Guide, should be adhered to.

 

[Trickie Dick]

This brings up an interesting point for me; at the end of May I am going to start a 6,000 mile trip. Prior to leaving I will change oil and filter and will use BRP oil. My question is do I need to find a dealer and get the oil changed during the trip, will I void my warranty if I don't get the oil changed? I am interested in your recommendations.

See you in Cuba:chat:

I did a 6k trip last spring and did what Scotty suggested. I had to add a quart during the trip but otherwise no problems. A good full syn(I use Amsoil) will easily last 6000 miles under highway conditions.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Is the BRP oil synthetic ?

I know I put it in, but I just bought what the dealer had to offer. Since it was the BRP I'm sure it meets all their specs.

With the PITA that it is to change the oil, I'd love to change it at 6000 miles.

I just changed it this this weekend. If all goes according to plan, 3000 miles will be in mid-May.
6K will keep me down to two oil changes a year, not too bad even with the time it takes.

 

[NancysToy]

Is the BRP oil synthetic ?

I know I put it in, but I just bought what the dealer had to offer. Since it was the BRP I'm sure it meets all their specs.

With the PITA that it is to change the oil, I'd love to change it at 6000 miles.

I just changed it this this weekend. If all goes according to plan, 3000 miles will be in mid-May.
6K will keep me down to two oil changes a year, not too bad even with the time it takes.

The recommended BRP "Summer-Weight" oil is a synthetic blend, not full synthetic.