Using Combination Pegs and Footboards

[Gordon]

I was using footboards in position 5 and experiencing pressure on my upper inside thighs from the seat (still stock) along with lower back strain. I was ready to get a position 4 brake linkage when I remembered that I had the stock pegs. Put the pegs are in position 5 and the footboards in position 2 (won’t go any further forward). I went on a 40 mile test ride. I rode with the balls of my feet over the front edge of the footboards. Think of it as using pegs in about a 4 ½ position with foot support. The footboards are about 1” higher than the pegs. I was able to rock my foot back on my heel and engage the brake (no lifting my foot). The pressure on my thighs and the lower back strain was almost non-existent!

I have seen posts where some feel that the shift lever on SM6s is too high. It would be interesting to see if this setup works for that.

I intend to upgrade my seat. I am thinking Conformax, but a friend is recommending memory foam. I would appreciate input on this.

NOTE: I am 6’1” and wear a size 14 shoe. Results my vary.

 

[TommyBwell]

That's outside the box thinking. I have a perpetually strained groin and sometimes when cornering hard it will really hurt. I have footboards coming in this week. If they don't help I will give this a try. I hope it continues to work for you.

 

[Gordon]

That's outside the box thinking. I have a perpetually strained groin and sometimes when cornering hard it will really hurt. I have footboards coming in this week. If they don't help I will give this a try. I hope it continues to work for you.

You might want to consider installing the footboards with the pegs first. If you find that peg/footboard is the way you want to go you don't have to deal with peg removal and disconnecting/reconnecting the brake pedal. If you then decide that you want to try just the footboards, you will already be able to compare the two setups.

 

[Gordon]

That's outside the box thinking. I have a perpetually strained groin and sometimes when cornering hard it will really hurt. I have footboards coming in this week. If they don't help I will give this a try. I hope it continues to work for you.

FYI...added two more pics to the original post

 

[Bob Denman]

That's outside the box thinking. I have a perpetually strained groin and sometimes when cornering hard it will really hurt. I have footboards coming in this week. If they don't help I will give this a try. I hope it continues to work for you.

:agree: :clap: :thumbup:

 

[Gordon]

Went on another 40 mile ride to test different foot positions. All is good with the world.
Well, almost. I just ordered a foam/gel seat pad from Motorcycledave (a Spyderlovers Supporting Vendor).

 

[Gordon]

I was so happy with the pain relief I haven’t taken the time until now to analyze
how things changed. Riding with the footboards (also with the pegs before the
footboards) in position 5 my thighs were at a downward angle which caused my
upper inner thighs to pinch in on the front of the seat and my lower back to
curve. With this setup my feet are forward enough, but my thighs are basically parallel
with the ground. My thighs are no longer pinching the seat and my lower back is
straight. My riding position now is something like sitting in a Lazy Boy
recliner with the back in the most upright position and the footrest about
halfway up. Once a shorter brake lever becomes available I will probably reposition
the footboards (without the pegs) to determine which position will put my
thighs close to parallel with the ground, then order the appropriate brake linkage.

Legs stretched out at the showroom may feel good, but after a some miles it don't.

 

[ramdam1]

I find it interesting as we all come up with so many different ways to make our ride more comfortable. Then we share the way and someone else takes it and puts their own twist on it and then share again. Helps everyone and that is awesome. Strange how we do this on our motorcycles but I have yet to see anything like this for cars. I guess it is just too difficult. At 6'2" I find it hard to find a car where my legs are comfortable and the steering wheel is not too far away. Wish I could find a way to change that. Cost is always a factor too. I can find the car or truck that fits me nice, just the price that is hard to work with.

 

[Gordon]

I find it interesting as we all come up with so many different ways to make our ride more comfortable. Then we share the way and someone else takes it and puts their own twist on it and then share again. Helps everyone and that is awesome. Strange how we do this on our motorcycles but I have yet to see anything like this for cars. I guess it is just too difficult. At 6'2" I find it hard to find a car where my legs are comfortable and the steering wheel is not too far away. Wish I could find a way to change that. Cost is always a factor too. I can find the car or truck that fits me nice, just the price that is hard to work with.

At 6'1" I have always had better luck with trucks. One of the reasons I am holding onto my 2008 Ford Explorer Sport Trac.

 

[TommyBwell]

Good idea on trying your setup first so I don't have to mess with the linkage. I think they come in tomorrow or Thursday. I'm glad you are getting so much relief from it.

As as far as trucks go I have had F-150's, Tundras and now have a Ram and I believe the F-150 has the best leg room you can get and many have telescoping steering wheels.

As Ram said together we can make this growing old thing a little more comfortable.

Thanks for the ideas and the heads up.

 

[Sarge707]

Are those the $500 floor boards? I would like something to that effect but if my brake is in position 4 could the floor board go in position 1. (As opposed to 5 for Brake and 2 for board) Attached is what I made BUT I'm looking for something better and more permanent???

 

[SL Ken]

I guess it is just too difficult. At 6'2" I find it hard to find a car where my legs are comfortable and the steering wheel is not too far away. Wish I could find a way to change that. Cost is always a factor too. I can find the car or truck that fits me nice, just the price that is hard to work with.

i am about six foot, and I have a VW Jetta (2006). It came with a telescoping steering wheel. I can push the seat back and get comfortable, and then pull the wheel to me. You're about 2 inches taller. You might need the bigger car, the Passat.

 

[Gordon]

Are those the $500 floor boards? I would like something to that effect but if my brake is in position 4 could the floor board go in position 1. (As opposed to 5 for Brake and 2 for board) Attached is what I made BUT I'm looking for something better and more permanent???

What I have is the Can-Am carbon driver footboards. I can only speak to using these boards. My answer to using position 1 is yes. I base that on that I measured the distance between the holes of position 3 and position 4, which is 2". Then called the dealership parts guy. He had positions 5 and 4 brake linkage in stock. Position 4 linkage was 2" shorter than 5. All of the positions are 2" between each other. These boards are 1" thick at the front edge. If you use an after market board a couple of questions come to mind. How thick are they and does the tilt differ (tilt down more at the front)? Looking at the Can-Am site from the picture and reading description, other than the chrome you can adjust the tilt.

http://store.spyder.brp.com/products/896083/SPYDER_F3

 

[TommyBwell]

Most of the aftermarket boards I have seen mount to the existing foot pegs so you would have to get some new pegs to double up.

 

[Gordon]

Good idea on trying your setup first so I don't have to mess with the linkage. I think they come in tomorrow or Thursday. I'm glad you are getting so much relief from it.

As as far as trucks go I have had F-150's, Tundras and now have a Ram and I believe the F-150 has the best leg room you can get and many have telescoping steering wheels.

As Ram said together we can make this growing old thing a little more comfortable.

Thanks for the ideas and the heads up.

Some things I have failed to mention. I did not have the bolts and nuts to attach the pegs. Made a trip to ACE Hardware with one of the pegs. The way the clamps are molded, both the bolt head and the nut are recessed when tightened. Tried a standard head bolt first. To me it was questionable that even a thin walled socket could be used. I went with 1 1/2” long 5/16 x 8 stainless allen head bolts along with self locking nuts and lock washers (for good measure). Just measured the exposed threads (1/2”). One inch long bolts should do.
With the brake lever totally loose and the linkage attached to it, I was not able to completely remove it because of space between it and the frame (was on my boards at the time). Recommend that you use a rag across the frame at the brake lever area so don’t to scratch the frame paint. You do want to loosen the brake bolt some to that the linkage has some play. I was using a small adjustable wrench on the nuts. When the nuts started to get into the recess I was able to angle the wrench to maintain a bite on the nut. Having play in the linkage helped (same applies if you are detaching). In reverse (if attaching pegs or boards), get the brake lever bolt loosely attached to the peg or board before clamping.