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Trouble when Hot

Slybird

New member
When my 2010 RT-S has been running in hot weather, let's say down the superslab for a couple of hours straight in 90 degree + temperatures, when I get off the freeway to eat or gas up, when I come to a stop, the engine idles and then dies. :wrong: Today, when coming home after driving around for an hour or so in the heat, when I give it gas and try to goose it, it sputters and chokes and sounds like it starving for gas or is horribly "out of tune". :banghead: Any suggestions? Dirty fuel filter, perhaps? I'm a mechanical idiot so I'd appreciate some guidance. :chat: Thanks!
 
First thing I would do is check the spark plugs. They will tell you a great deal about how the engine is running, and a bad plug could even be the cause of your problems. Beyond that, it is probably time to visit your dealer. Too many possibilities to mention.
 
When my 2010 RT-S has been running in hot weather, let's say down the superslab for a couple of hours straight in 90 degree + temperatures, when I get off the freeway to eat or gas up, when I come to a stop, the engine idles and then dies. :wrong: Today, when coming home after driving around for an hour or so in the heat, when I give it gas and try to goose it, it sputters and chokes and sounds like it starving for gas or is horribly "out of tune". :banghead: Any suggestions? Dirty fuel filter, perhaps? I'm a mechanical idiot so I'd appreciate some guidance. :chat: Thanks!

Sounds like plugs to me...I think a dirty fuel filter would give you problems having nothing to do with the heat...but, what do I know, maybe best to see the dealer....Welcome home brother....USMC 68-72...the nam 69, 70, 71!
 
Sounds like plugs to me...I think a dirty fuel filter would give you problems having nothing to do with the heat...but, what do I know, maybe best to see the dealer....Welcome home brother....USMC 68-72...the nam 69, 70, 71!

Thanks for the welcome, bro! While the spark plug theory is quite valid, and one that I thought of a while back, when I had my oil changed about two weeks ago I also had them change out the plugs....so goes that theory! :dontknow: It's now in the shop with the front end disassembled and mechanics scratching their collective heads. When I talked with the service manager of Pro Caliber in Longview, WA on Friday, he said that there were numerous "fault codes" that they were investigating. :gaah: But whatever happens, this :spyder2: WILL be ready to go in time for the Spyders in the Redwoods party!!! :yes::ohyea::yes:
 
Being that you have a 2010 RT it sounds like the hot exhaust gases are making there way into the airbox when you stop it and you're lucky enough to stop it when you have valve overlap and both valves are open. This is what they addressed for the 2011 by holding the throttle plates closed for 40 minutes.
 
Just talked with the service people at Pro Caliber and following consultations with BRP it seems like I have defective O2 sensors. They're bringing in two new sensors and I should have my :spyder2: back later next week.

Now, I have a question. Was there anything I could have done to prevent this situation? A friend of mine (who is a mechanic, but knows nothing of Spyders) advised me that burning premium fuel can contribute to toasting kyour O2 sensors. Is this true and/or should I be burning mid-grade fuel instead of premium?

Thanks for the input, guys! :D
 
Just talked with the service people at Pro Caliber and following consultations with BRP it seems like I have defective O2 sensors. They're bringing in two new sensors and I should have my :spyder2: back later next week.

Now, I have a question. Was there anything I could have done to prevent this situation? A friend of mine (who is a mechanic, but knows nothing of Spyders) advised me that burning premium fuel can contribute to toasting kyour O2 sensors. Is this true and/or should I be burning mid-grade fuel instead of premium?

Thanks for the input, guys! :D
Urban legend. Premium fuel is specified for the RT. Common causes of sensor failure are: use of incompatible sealants, ignition system failures, very rich fuel mixture, or faulty O2 sensors. If the problem recurs after sensor replacement you will have to look a little deeper. Sounds like you have some competent techs.
 
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Thanks, Scotty!

If the problem raises its ugly head again I'll have them tear into my Spyder and not let go until the problem is solved, but, hopefully, this is the issue and this will be the end of it!! Gotta have it 100% for the ryde to the Redwoods in 17 days, 12 hours and 27 minutes!!!! :2thumbs::D:2thumbs:
 
Being that you have a 2010 RT it sounds like the hot exhaust gases are making there way into the airbox when you stop it and you're lucky enough to stop it when you have valve overlap and both valves are open. This is what they addressed for the 2011 by holding the throttle plates closed for 40 minutes.

I would also mention Lamont's post to your dealer's techs . So, Lamont if this is the case then what is the remedy to fix this issue on the 2010 RT S :dontknow:.
 
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