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Trailer wiring

RanHag

New member
I bought an after-market trailer hitch that isn't the BRP hitch. looking how to wire it up to my 2011 RT. Any ideas?:chat:
 
Do I have to use the BRP trailer wiring harness or can I direct wire it like a car?
I do not recommend wiring directly. The BRP harness contains and integral converter module, and is powered off a separate circuit. There is no simple and cheap way to accomplish this, and the BRP module is not readily available separately.
 
RT/RS Aftermarket Trailer Wiring Harness

I bought an after-market trailer hitch that isn't the BRP hitch. looking how to wire it up to my 2011 RT. Any ideas?:chat:

Purchase an Electrical Connection Trailer Isolator, Relay Version and a Universal Trailer Relay Sub Harness from www.electricalconnection.com Your power for your trailer lights will come from your battery, NOT the RT wiring.You won't have to worry about CAN BUS problems. I have used the units for many years on Kawasaki's, Yamaha's, Goldwings, and Spyders. NO problems! Part No. 7660 and 7663.
Happy Trailering
 
So, I guess, I'll need to visit my handy dandy dealership for the wiring harness...right? Sounds like you've been there done that!
 
So, I guess, I'll need to visit my handy dandy dealership for the wiring harness...right? Sounds like you've been there done that!
No can do? The only way I have seen these provided is for replacement of a failed unit under warranty. It would be a good approach if BRP can provide the separate trailer module. Note, use of the factory module would require an additional harness or the component Deutsch connector parts to match up the Spyder to your trailer.

As was just said, the alternative would be a powered converter module, but there is no good way to run the standard trailer connector out of an RT. Cutting off the module connector and installing some kind of bulkhead connector (preferably screw-lock and waterproof) would be the preferred solution.

What you want to do can be done, but it is not easy and simple, and is not a good project for a wiring beginner.
 
OK, if I get this right, I need to get the converter as mentioned and wire it in. Will I stll use the setting on the bike that says I'mconnected to a trailer?
 
OK, if I get this right, I need to get the converter as mentioned and wire it in. Will I stll use the setting on the bike that says I'mconnected to a trailer?
Yes, if you have an SE, that just changes the shift points to keep the rpm up. That is necessary to avoid clutch damage. The centrifugal clutch is not fully engaged until 3,000-3,400 rpm, so you don't want to drop below that for long.
 
Trailer Adventure

Hi guys and gals. I come in search of wisdom. I just bought a 2012 RT SE5 baout a month ago. I just purchased a trailer from one of our Spyderlover sponsors...Mini Trailer USA. I purchased also a replacement trailer harness for the BRP 611 to make the conversion from the flat four pin to the nine pin on the Spyder. (recommended on this site) The trailer lighting (LED) works fine with the original harness and on my truck. I, however, cannot get a single light to function after changing harnesses and attaching to the Spyder. How would one determine if the harness was installed properly at the shop...(I question this only because I have asked questions in the past and have gotten the deer in the headlights look) or if there is a missing link that I am not aware of. I used the following info with wiring assist. any help or advice would be most appreciated. :banghead:
CanAmTrailerPlug.jpg4_Way_Plug_Trailer_End.jpg
 
Followup to trailer adventure

Just went by a trailer place to arrange a rental to pull the Spyder to Durango (wife just had surgery and can't saddle that far). Had him do continuity testing on the Spyder's connection under saddle bag. No Ground. Guess it's back to the dealer. I understand that this operates on seperate circuit. Wonder if it needs a fuse?
 
Just went by a trailer place to arrange a rental to pull the Spyder to Durango (wife just had surgery and can't saddle that far). Had him do continuity testing on the Spyder's connection under saddle bag. No Ground. Guess it's back to the dealer. I understand that this operates on seperate circuit. Wonder if it needs a fuse?
It is plug-n-play, so the ground should be active and should not be fused. The dealer really shouldn't be able to get it wrong. I'd suspect a bad trailer module/harness. The module is fed from fuse F7, which also feeds the reverse actuator. If the dealer installed the module, they have an obligation to make sure it works...and prove it to your satisfaction. BTW, the color coding on the Spyder, trailer harness, and your trailer will all be different. Do not go by color codes to connect the wiring...function only.
 
Trailer Adventure

Thanks Scotty. I love this forum. Learn tons from all of you guys. I called the dealer and explained situation. No problemo. Taking it in on tomorrow. They're also replacing the

bouncing analog fuel guage that's still hafl full when it reads empty(I know it's a waste of time), and the assembly attached to the right handlebar due to a nonfunctioning cruise control. Very much a happy :spyder2: rider though. As my wife says,"riding this thing is like being on vacation". :cheers:
 
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