Trailer Tie Downs

[lwrydr]

I just bought (at a very good price) a home made car trailer. It needs some TLC which I will give it and then
be able to load the :spyder2: on it. My question is, where do you hook to on the :spyder2: to tie it down? Do I run straps thru

the wheels or is there something to actually to tie the straps to. Picture of before and after of trailer will follow. Thanks for any help.

Dave

 

[PaSpyderRyder]

Trailering My Spyder

When ever I trailer my spyder I always run one strap thru each wheel.

Bob

 

[Bob Denman]

This IS covered in your owner's manual...

Rear wheel:
Lace the strap through the wheel, and hook it off on both sides. Take care to not get yourself tangled up with the rear belt pulley on the left, or the braking system on the right...
The front:
I hook mine around the lower a-arm; just outboard of the lower shock mount. I then secure it to the trailer, straight ahead.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This IS covered in your owner's manual...

Rear wheel:
Lace the strap through the wheel, and hook it off on both sides. Take care to not get yourself tangled up with the rear belt pulley on the left, or the braking system on the right...
The front:
I hook mine around the lower a-arm; just outboard of the lower shock mount. I then secure it to the trailer, straight ahead.

IMO, BRP has not properly addressed trailering a Spyder. For comparison, when you trailer a Goldwing you strap it down by pulling down on the bike proper, not the wheels. In the front you use soft ties around the triple tree, in the middle by tying to the frame under the access covers, and in the rear by tying onto the bag guards. The reason for this is to minimize bouncing up and down. By pulling down on the bike you create an upward pushing force with the springs. Then, when the trailer goes over a bump the bike will not move, or bounce, until the downward acceleration force exceeds the spring force pushing up. This way the bike becomes one with the trailer and does not bounce up and down on its own.

It would be best if there were some way to hook onto the Spyder frame above the shocks, both in front and rear. I don't anticipate trailering my bike so haven't looked to see if there is any feasible way to do this.

 

[Bob Denman]

You're hooking to spots on the bike, that should remain stable throughout the journey...
You're not loading the suspension; I'd call it a pretty decent way to grab on! :2thumbs:

 

[Wiredux]

The tie down points are located in the owners manual.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You're hooking to spots on the bike, that should remain stable throughout the journey... You're not loading the suspension; I'd call it a pretty decent way to grab on! :2thumbs:

But what I'm saying is the ideal way to tie down the bike IS to load the suspension! Now, I will admit that from a practical everyday experience standpoint tying the bike by holding the wheels tight to the trailer is OK, but it is not ideal. By tying with wheels only, anytime the trailer takes a hard bump you transfer the motion to the bike, thus causing the bike to move up and down on its suspension. If you preload the suspension that won't happen.

 

[Illinois Boy]

But what I'm saying is the ideal way to tie down the bike IS to load the suspension! Now, I will admit that from a practical everyday experience standpoint tying the bike by holding the wheels tight to the trailer is OK, but it is not ideal. By tying with wheels only, anytime the trailer takes a hard bump you transfer the motion to the bike, thus causing the bike to move up and down on its suspension. If you preload the suspension that won't happen.

You seem to be hung-up on comparing a Spyder (3-wheel vehicle) to a two-wheel vehicle. A two-wheel vehicle does not have the same stability. Also, a two-wheel vehicle, when its suspension is allowed to bounce in excess when tied-down, will possible slip-out from under itself. This is not true with a multi-wheel vehicle; thus compressing the suspension is not necessary -- especially on a nearly 1,000 pound machine.

My case in point is.. How many cars do you see where they compress the suspension when towing?

None is the answer. Not even from the factory on car-haulers or trains.

You are simply applying something that does not apply to a Spyder.

 

[NancysToy]

This IS covered in your owner's manual...

Rear wheel:
Lace the strap through the wheel, and hook it off on both sides. Take care to not get yourself tangled up with the rear belt pulley on the left, or the braking system on the right...
The front:
I hook mine around the lower a-arm; just outboard of the lower shock mount. I then secure it to the trailer, straight ahead.

:lecturef_smilie: You had better read your manual again. The only approved way to tie down a Spyder is through the wheels. Using the a-arms can cause serious damage.

 

[Wiredux]

Just had mine on a trailer for 1100 miles.

No damage done.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You seem to be hung-up on comparing a Spyder (3-wheel vehicle) to a two-wheel vehicle. A two-wheel vehicle does not have the same stability. Also, a two-wheel vehicle, when its suspension is allowed to bounce in excess when tied-down, will possible slip-out from under itself. This is not true with a multi-wheel vehicle; thus compressing the suspension is not necessary -- especially on a nearly 1,000 pound machine.

My case in point is.. How many cars do you see where they compress the suspension when towing?

None is the answer. Not even from the factory on car-haulers or trains.

You are simply applying something that does not apply to a Spyder.

I did state "IMO". Spyders, Goldwings, and Tri-glides are much the same weight. There is no universally accepted or adopted method for tying down bikes. It boils down to what you are comfortable with and what works for you. I find instructions for Tri-glides showing tie downs attached to frame members. Lehman trikes have attachment points on the frame. You can find cars held down by frame tie downs, and chains made for that purpose, although the predominant method may well be wheel straps.

My comment is not based on stability of the bike as tied down, but slip out is one reason why chocks are recommended. It's based on minimizing the bouncing of the bike. I suppose bouncing isn't generally a problem, but I still think that on rare occasion on a rough road it could be. And I also stated "ideal" which does not mean necessary.

Actually, no bike manufacturer, AFAIK, includes purpose specific tie down attachment points on a bike, other than Lehman as I noted.

BTW, I and my brothers haul ATVs on flat bed trailers all the time. Of course stability is not an issue. But we still tie them down from the frames. Keeps them from bouncing!

 

[Oldmanzues]

I use straps on all three wheels for tie downs. My "drop Tail trailer" has a "ridge: in front that the tirs go up against.the ramp is back almost touches the trailer hitch. Then because I have a problem with tie downs. I use a front and back strap lossely to frame points, in case of real bad things happening.

My problem with tie downs. A F-9 refueling truck trying to break loose on a C-141 on lift off out of Spain. Unit was chained down correctly, but the tie down points bolts had been replaced by ???? with "soft" bolts. Secondary restraints managed to keep it from only moving a foot and a half or so, until it could tied down in one place. I was a courier but able to assist the loadmaster.

I do not see a problem with the Spyder bouncing a little on the trailer. The suspension is just doin the same job as if the wheels were on the ground.
Oldmanzues

 

[Bob Denman]

:lecturef_smilie: You had better read your manual again. The only approved way to tie down a Spyder is through the wheels. Using the a-arms can cause serious damage.

I DID say that it's what I do...
My reasoning: Hooking through the wheel always offers the potential for scratching up a HUGE part of the visual impact of these beauties...
Hooking it essentially at the lower shock mount should be a stronger mounting point than a wheel..
the a-arm is only putting the load to the two pivots...
The wheel loads those same two pivots, PLUS the hub, wheel bearing, ad even torques on the rim itself...
But that's just me!

 

[spyderbirds]

I DID say that it's what I do...
My reasoning: Hooking through the wheel always offers the potential for scratching up a HUGE part of the visual impact of these beauties...
Hooking it essentially at the lower shock mount should be a stronger mounting point than a wheel..
the a-arm is only putting the load to the two pivots...
The wheel loads those same two pivots, PLUS the hub, wheel bearing, ad even torques on the rim itself...
But that's just me!

Bob, I tie mine down the same point on the front except I strap from both sides to a point just ahead of the frunk nose in center of spyder.
Our RT has been seen quite a few miles this way. I personally like it better than strapping the rims to restrain the front. But hey its just IMHO!!

 

[Dan_Ashley]

I tie the back by running two straps through the rims, one goes to a left anchor point on there trailer, one to the right. I hook one strap through each of the front wheels and anchor it to the respective sides of the trailer. I place a small piece of furry carpeting between the straps and the wheel to prevent scratches to the rims. I've towed it thousands of miles this way. It seems to work fine. I don't worry about compressing the shocks like on a two wheeler--it won't fall over, and the suspension system is designed for roadway travel anyway.

 

[Bob Denman]

I kind of wonder why they want you looping the straps through the wheels, and not around the a-arms... :dontknow:
Does anybody have an idea, as to why?

 

[Bob Ledford]

A-frame tie downs

I kind of wonder why they want you looping the straps through the wheels, and not around the a-arms... :dontknowoes anybody have an idea, as to why?

BobI think they are trying to keep you from bending the A-Frame arm.I an only base my answer from previous experience with receiving GM cars and trucks from car haulers. When the driver secures a vehicle in place on the trailer they use chain and a chain tension binder to pull down on the vehicle attachment points. We saw cars that were incorrectly secured develop bad wheel bearings, bent spindles, bent a-frames, bent rear axle housings, and even bent frame sections. Some drives especially new inexperienced ones don't want the car to flop or hop around during transport. So they really put the torque on them.

 

[Bob Denman]

They are braced in the center...
And hooking through the wheel; loads the same attachment points... :dontknow:
I just don't know...

 

[Dragonfly]

You're hooking to spots on the bike, that should remain stable throughout the journey...
You're not loading the suspension; I'd call it a pretty decent way to grab on! :2thumbs:

I'm with you Bob. :2thumbs: :2thumbs: Have trailered mine to the dealer numerous times. I have the BRP tiedown straps and purchased from Tractor Supply 4 eye bolts works great!

 

[Deanna777]

Last year I trailed my spyder ,mike (Blueknight911) ran ratchet straps thru the front tires, hooked 1 hook to left side of the trailer and hooked the 2nd hook to the right side, he also did the same to the back tire. And he also, put 3 blocks of wood(nailed down) around each of the tires, so the :spyder2: did not move. Also, put your spyder's brake on after you get the spyder on the trailer. Deanna777