Trailer coupling

[Ojonesy]

Hi fellow Can Am riders. I have just built a trailer for my RT and used a Pressed Steel type coupling that appears to be exactly the same as the one used in the USA on the factory built Can Am Trailers. I however on my first trip to a Rally, I had covered 60 miles when somehow the coupling came off the towball and causing the trailer to flip. Fortunately it happened on a straight section of road and that the safety chain kept the trailer in check. As you can imagined, the trailer suffered a lot of gravel rash being dragged along the road upside down, but was able to continue on and complete the 300mile trip once I had straightened and reconnected the coupling back onto the towball. I strongly suspect that the little locking tab that clips in once the handle is engaged released thru possible vibration or sudden jarring whilst travelling (eg. hitting uneven road surface) and thus allowed the handle to release. This tab has only a soft spring to keep it in position. The tongue was engaged properly as evident by the wear marks on the towball, so I am at a loss for any other reason apart from the one fore-mentioned. I have approached the local supplier here in New Zealand and they claim that there is no fault with the design. What I find interesting that the supplier states that the coupling has an optional security hole in the handle that connects through to the connecting engagement tongue shaft and this whilst optional and not required for safe operation, can be used for added security. After my incident, I sourced a 6mm bolt which I put through this hole and was able to continue on my journey with some degree of added safety. I am still in negotiations with the supplier and they claim that they have had no reports of any problems with this coupling, so I am putting it out there to see if in fact this is true. I do find it interesting when looking a photos' on the net that a lot of the ones featured on American web pages seem to have a factory locking pin that is engaged thru the very hole that I and the New Zealand supplier has talked about.
:sour:

 

[GorillaSpyder]

trailer pin

Hi fellow Can Am riders. I have just built a trailer for my RT and used a Pressed Steel type coupling that appears to be exactly the same as the one used in the USA on the factory built Can Am Trailers. I however on my first trip to a Rally, I had covered 60 miles when somehow the coupling came off the towball and causing the trailer to flip. Fortunately it happened on a straight section of road and that the safety chain kept the trailer in check. As you can imagined, the trailer suffered a lot of gravel rash being dragged along the road upside down, but was able to continue on and complete the 300mile trip once I had straightened and reconnected the coupling back onto the towball. I strongly suspect that the little locking tab that clips in once the handle is engaged released thru possible vibration or sudden jarring whilst travelling (eg. hitting uneven road surface) and thus allowed the handle to release. This tab has only a soft spring to keep it in position. The tongue was engaged properly as evident by the wear marks on the towball, so I am at a loss for any other reason apart from the one fore-mentioned. I have approached the local supplier here in New Zealand and they claim that there is no fault with the design. What I find interesting that the supplier states that the coupling has an optional security hole in the handle that connects through to the connecting engagement tongue shaft and this whilst optional and not required for safe operation, can be used for added security. After my incident, I sourced a 6mm bolt which I put through this hole and was able to continue on my journey with some degree of added safety. I am still in negotiations with the supplier and they claim that they have had no reports of any problems with this coupling, so I am putting it out there to see if in fact this is true. I do find it interesting when looking a photos' on the net that a lot of the ones featured on American web pages seem to have a factory locking pin that is engaged thru the very hole that I and the New Zealand supplier has talked about.
View attachment 150969:sour:

Always put a coupler pin in this hole to keep it secure. I have had a trailer come off as well and it was the nut inside the coupler that backed off and allowed the trailer to free itself. With the trailer attached to your hitch tighten the nut underneath to a snug fit. Once you do this you will notice every time you attach the trailer if it feels like the nut has backed off because it will be loose fitting. Glad you were okay and only had damage to the trailer!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

COUPLING ISSUES

Sorry this happened to you .... I have a similar coupling and mine also has the security " HOLE " and I have always used ...... So are you sure your coupling matches your BALL size ???? .... A 2" coupling is not secure with 1 7/8" ball ............or the coupling ( at least mine ) is adjustable for locking tension, after you attach it to the ball .... the connection should have almost no slack ............... Mike :thumbup:

 

[OverHillAndDale]

I've seen no connectors of this type that DIDN'T have the security pin hole. Not only can a locking pin prevent the trailer from being stolen, it can prevent exactly what happened to you.

Very glad there were no injuries. Get a locking pin or at least a bolt and nut.

 

[billybovine]

Sorry about your misadventure. Always use a coupler pin or lock.

 

[Ojonesy]

trailer coupling

Always put a coupler pin in this hole to keep it secure. I have had a trailer come off as well and it was the nut inside the coupler that backed off and allowed the trailer to free itself. With the trailer attached to your hitch tighten the nut underneath to a snug fit. Once you do this you will notice every time you attach the trailer if it feels like the nut has backed off because it will be loose fitting. Glad you were okay and only had damage to the trailer!

Thanks for your reply. One reason I originally opted for this type of coupling was the fact that the tongue can be adjusted as I have had non-adjustable types in the past and was frustrated with the resulting coupling rattle. I understand at what you are saying, the adjusting nut is of a nyloc type, but they still can move over time. As you say, pays to check and maybe use some locitite once adjusted. Yes, potentially things could have been worse, thanks goodness I was on a can am rather than 2 wheels.

 

[Ojonesy]

trailer coupling

Sorry this happened to you .... I have a similar coupling and mine also has the security " HOLE " and I have always used ...... So are you sure your coupling matches your BALL size ???? .... A 2" coupling is not secure with 1 7/8" ball ............or the coupling ( at least mine ) is adjustable for locking tension, after you attach it to the ball .... the connection should have almost no slack ............... Mike :thumbup:

Thanks for that mike. Yes tow ball is correct, in fact the coupling is very tight to slip over and off the ball. The reason I like this coupling is the fact that you can adjust the tension to take out the coupling rattle, but as a previous thread has stated, you do need to keep checking for tightness. I will rest assured now be using that security hole with an additional locking pin.

 

[Ojonesy]

trailer coupling

I've seen no connectors of this type that DIDN'T have the security pin hole. Not only can a locking pin prevent the trailer from being stolen, it can prevent exactly what happened to you.

Very glad there were no injuries. Get a locking pin or at least a bolt and nut.

Thanks for your reply. From your reply, are you saying that you have not seen any couplings without a factory manufacturer locking pin device fitted as standard. I believe the security hole is standard, what I am trying to ascertain is the locking pin that uses this hole a standard fitment or an optional choose for the end user. I will be using that security hole from here on.........

 

[Ojonesy]

trailer coupling

Sorry about your misadventure. Always use a coupler pin or lock.

View attachment 150970View attachment 150971

thanks for that....I believe that the pin at least should be supplied as a requirement for the safe operation of the coupling

 

[lewisalice]

Where can you but that?

 

[1051]

Lock: https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Ma...eywords=Shoreline+Marine+Trailer+Coupler+Lock

PIN: https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Ma...eywords=Shoreline+Marine+Trailer+Coupler+Lock

 

[lewisalice]

Lock: https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Ma...eywords=Shoreline+Marine+Trailer+Coupler+Lock

PIN: https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Ma...eywords=Shoreline+Marine+Trailer+Coupler+Lock

Thanks just bought it get my new trailer tues.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

coupling options

There is another option ..... it's the one I've used on all my SMALL trailers and that's a "solid coupler " type.. I made mine using a trk " TIE-ROD END " ( is a coupler and ball that is Permanently attached to each other ). I got mine from Auto Zone part # ES2376 $ 14.99 weighs 12 oz. .... with this , there is NO slack in the system , no jerking ,clanking etc.... an added bonus to this coupling system is thieves are more likely to leave it alone because they can't easily tow it, they have to lift it and put in a truck or large trailer ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BRandRandy]

I just got a trailer from USA Trailer store and it has this type of coupler and it did come with a coupler pin. After reading all of the replys I had never heard of the nut unscrewing from the bottom of the couipler and releasing the coupler from the ball. Would it be wise to use Locktite on it to keep it from unscrewing?

 

[tomand]

There is another option ..... it's the one I've used on all my SMALL trailers and that's a "solid coupler " type.. I made mine using a trk " TIE-ROD END " ( is a coupler and ball that is Permanently attached to each other ). I got mine from Auto Zone part # ES2376 $ 14.99 weighs 12 oz. .... with this , there is NO slack in the system , no jerking ,clanking etc.... an added bonus to this coupling system is thieves are more likely to leave it alone because they can't easily tow it, they have to lift it and put in a truck or large trailer ...... Mike :thumbup:

Mike,

could you post pics of this system....i'm intrigued

thanks

ray:

 

[bushrat]

Sorry for your bad trailering experience

Very unfortunate situation; glad it wasn't worse for you.
In my trailering experience (reasonably extensive, with boats, cargo trailers, farm vehicles, etc.), many of the couplers will have a small flange on the underside where the adjusting nut is located. Makes it difficult to adjust the tightness of the snap closure sometimes, but that little flange is also there to help stop the nut from backing off due to vibration when on the road. Step one is always to make certain that the nut is adjusted so that there is no vertical play between the trailer tongue closure jaw and the towing ball when hooking up. Take a few minutes to play around with tightening/loosening the adjusting nut so that you can just barely get the jaw to close when you push down on the snap. The snap should also have a hook on it that engages into a clip bracket on the top of the tongue; again, this is designed to hold fast during motion so that you don't become detached. If you are lacking either of those features on your tongue snap closure fitting, you have less than ideal security.

Then, I agree with others... always use a safety coupler pin or lock through the hole in the snap. That is your ultimate security feature. I have had trailers come to me with and without coupler pins, so not certain there is any standard procedure or expectation of them being supplied. The hole is there; use it anyway that you can - pin, bolt and nut, lock, wire, whatever. I have seen coupler pins of differing diameter, so be aware that not all pins fit all holes. My preference while on the road is a padlock; it helps deter thieves. When back at home and stored, I always leave the padlock in place on the trailer (for the same reason). When storing, it is advisable to close your jaw and snap just as you would when travelling; then lock it. Do not lock in the open position. Reason: a trailer with an 'open' tongue jaw, even though padlocked, can still be slipped over a towing ball and quickly stolen, trusting to enough tongue weight to get down the road far enough to cut a lock and make better connection. A 'locked' jaw cannot be slipped over a towing ball, so doesn't present the same easy opportunity. A seriously determined thief will find a way, regardless, but you can make life a little more difficult and problematic with a padlock and a locked tongue jaw and snap, either on the road or in your yard.

BTW, I am assuming that anyone towing is using the same size ball and hitch; 2" to 2"; 1-7/8" to 1-7/8" - - NO crossovers. Sizes MUST equal one another. When it comes to safe trailering, there is no such thing as 'mix and match'.

Cheers.

 

[billybovine]

I have been towing various trailers for 40 years and never had the adjusting nut back off. Adjust it properly and check it from time to time.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SOLID COUPLING

Mike,

could you post pics of this system....i'm intrigued

thanks

ray:

Cr*p , they were posted a looooooong time ago & I have no idea how to find them .... However if you google Auto Zone & the part # it shows an excellent PIC ..... the threaded part that goes down has the BALL fixed ( permanently ) in the socket ( with a grease fitting ) the other threaded part would be screwed into a Nut welded to a Bracket and bolted inside the tongue of the trailer ..... the first threaded part would bolt directly to the Hitch on the Spyder ( in place of the reg. ball ) .... this makes it much more difficult to steal ..... A solid coupling like this will always have ZERO PLAY in it ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[tomand]

thanks Mike

:clap:

 

[larryd]

A Better Ball Coupler

http://www.google.com.pg/patents/US20090302576


09-29-2015, 08:02 PM

#9​

larryd

Active MemberJoin DateMar 2008LocationHesston, PAPosts330Post Thanks / Like

[h=2]

trailer ball lube/a different way[/h]

I drill a 1/4" hole in the top of all my ball couplers and when I'm hooked up I give it a shot of WD40 thru the 1/4" hole...This lubes the ball and the coupler without the greasy mess...I've been doing this for years...The ball does not make contact with the top of the coupler...Plus you can use this small hole as a sight hole to see if you down on the ball correctly...I recently saw some ball couplers with a small hole in the top from the manufacture...larryd​

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