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Tools needed for Ryker wheel change
- Thread starter PW2013STL
- Start date
Sarge707
Active member
Everything else seems to be fairly customer friendly, why not the tire removal. I have to take the front off to wire my led fender lights unless the amber cap on the side comes off because I will run the wires up in that tunnel and the light will start just past the tunnel.
It's held on with one nut and a spring clip. I'm not sure if you can even rent the tool anywhere. If you watch Sean Smoak's second vlog on the Ryker he shows the tool you need to remove the nut. Also not very many cheap torque wrenches will go that high.
It seems for all the things that BRP made easier to service on the Ryker, the tires aren't one of them.
It seems for all the things that BRP made easier to service on the Ryker, the tires aren't one of them.
hyea:
Sarge707
Active member
https://www.amazon.com/Can-Am-New-Socket-65Mm-529036457/dp/B07KLNGP97
NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.
NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.
Sarge707
Active member
http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/can-am-socket-65mm-529036457-part.html
NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.
NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.
Tslepebull
Active member
The torque wrench shouldn't be too bad. Even in 3/4" drive its only about $110 . https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200627235_200627235
65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m...=cpc&msclkid=c37b0fd6bd4f110e42ce53f7f2a90643
65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m...=cpc&msclkid=c37b0fd6bd4f110e42ce53f7f2a90643
PW2013STL
Active member
I do not believe that 65 mm socket would work as the nut used on the Ryker is not standard shaped. This is based off what Shawn S. Showed in his first video so I could be wrong.
As for the T wrench years back I was able to pick up a used snap-on 3/4" that goes up to 250 ft# from a snap-on salesman that was a trade in for a fraction of the cost.
https://youtu.be/nv8ZgGaMN9Y?t=164
I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?
PW2013STL
Active member
You can go back to the dealer and ask them to check it and see if they will allow you to watch them do it so you will know if they have the correct tools and not doing the 220# Bubba method:shocked::shocked:
canamjhb
Well-known member
Or, do what I do. Enjoy a few extra calories and use 3/4th of your body weight and not have to try to jump. :bbq:
PMK
Active member
My thought, if you own a Ryker, buy the correct tool. The cost is not inexpensive, but not break the bank.
Get the correct socket, keep a note of the correct torque, then store it on your Ryker at all times. If you have an issue with a flat or failed tire, the current trend from tire shops is not to install a plug from the outside. The tire shop removes the tire and patches it.
Without the correct tool, damage may occurr to the nut, which no doubt is expensive also. Without the tool, a simple flat tire may require a tow to the nearest Can Am dealer, which will likely only replace the tire.
As for the torque wrench, those that have experienced incorrect torques from an inexpensive torque wrench understand why a quality torque wrench is essential. I would be more comfortable applying 110 pounds directly into a 2 foot long bar or 73 pounds onto a 3 foot bar vs using an inexpensive torque wrench that has not been calibrated.
Get the correct socket, keep a note of the correct torque, then store it on your Ryker at all times. If you have an issue with a flat or failed tire, the current trend from tire shops is not to install a plug from the outside. The tire shop removes the tire and patches it.
Without the correct tool, damage may occurr to the nut, which no doubt is expensive also. Without the tool, a simple flat tire may require a tow to the nearest Can Am dealer, which will likely only replace the tire.
As for the torque wrench, those that have experienced incorrect torques from an inexpensive torque wrench understand why a quality torque wrench is essential. I would be more comfortable applying 110 pounds directly into a 2 foot long bar or 73 pounds onto a 3 foot bar vs using an inexpensive torque wrench that has not been calibrated.
Tslepebull
Active member
What you are hearing is likely drive-line lash. It is common in any shaft drive bike. It is caused by the play between the teeth on the shaft drive meshing with those of the final drive. It actually needs to be there so that the lubricant can flow between the gear teeth. All of my BMW's have done it. It would still be a good idea to verify with the dealer just to be sure.
Tslepebull
Active member
Now I see what you are saying. The nut looks like is way more than 6 sided. The Can-Am tool it will be.
PW2013STL
Active member
I counted 12.
Tslepebull
Active member
This is actually listed as a socket specifically for a 12-point hub nut. It is cheap enough I may buy one and give it a try. If it is not a perfect fit the fall-back plan can still be the Can-Am part.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/65mm-HUB-NUT-SOCKET-3-4-DRIVE-12-POINT-FORD-HUB-NUT-SOCKET/262670282877
Last edited:
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