Too Much Oil in Oil Tank - What happens (Dealer filled it too much)

[Sarge707]

Under filled, by about a quart!! :yikes:.


You may be right on the factory pouring the fluids??? However, the PDI states the Dealer verify fluids. Perhaps my Dealer just missed the appropriate and accurate procedure in checking the oil (on the sticker on the oil tank and in the manual, etc...), as I think it is not a standard check, like perhaps other vehicles they service on a more regular basis. My dealer don't stock may Spyders; they make their money off motorcycles, ATVS and Ski-doos MUCH more then Spyders.

thanks for your notes.
Cheers.

If your dealer did the appropriate check of the oil you would have a used vehicle with 10-12 miles on it because he would have to ride it a decent amount like you did to check!
Mine was over just as much and I caught it the first day because my latest BRP Jet ski was also overfilled SO the first thing I did with my Spyder was inflate the tires properly and then do the oil check.
On other threads of this nature I found most prefer only 1/4 above the add line or oil on the last 1/4 inch of the stick.
You may choose otherwise?:dontknow: EH

 

[WaltH]

If your dealer did the appropriate check of the oil you would have a used vehicle with 10-12 miles on it because he would have to ride it a decent amount like you did to check!
Mine was over just as much and I caught it the first day because my latest BRP Jet ski was also overfilled SO the first thing I did with my Spyder was inflate the tires properly and then do the oil check.
On other threads of this nature I found most prefer only 1/4 above the add line or oil on the last 1/4 inch of the stick.
You may choose otherwise?:dontknow: EH

If you use four quarts, no more, no less, the oil level will be down about 1/4 of the way from the full mark to the add mark. The distance from full to add is equivalent to 1/2 quart.

 

[Sarge707]

If you use four quarts, no more, no less, the oil level will be down about 1/4 of the way from the full mark to the add mark. The distance from full to add is equivalent to 1/2 quart.

Good to know!
When I change mine I pour the oil I emptied into my 5 quart oil extractor so I can actually see that I have drained 3 1/2 or whatever quarts out .
Then I simply pour in the exact amount that actually drained out and do the verifying check.:shemademe_smilie:

 

[RJB]

I checked mine at 1,000 miles and sure enough it was overfilled by about the same amount as in your photos. I took it to the dealer 10 miles away and had them drain it because they didn't believe me. Later checked the airbox and found only a small amount of oil, maybe 1/2 a teaspoon. No problems, no worries.

I too have found that when cold the oil is just at the bottom of the dipstick. Any reason not to use that method to check oil level?

 

[groundeffect]

I checked mine at 1,000 miles and sure enough it was overfilled by about the same amount as in your photos. I took it to the dealer 10 miles away and had them drain it because they didn't believe me. Later checked the airbox and found only a small amount of oil, maybe 1/2 a teaspoon. No problems, no worries.

I too have found that when cold the oil is just at the bottom of the dipstick. Any reason not to use that method to check oil level?

Glad to hear after 1000miles you didn't find much oil in the airbox !!
I will be checking my airbox at 1000km.

I too have found that when cold the oil is just at the bottom of the dipstick. Any reason not to use that method to check oil level?

I think a big step in accurately verifying the oil level is (while the engine is at operating temperature - 3 bars on the cluster) when you stop the bike from a ride, and you start it at an idle for 30-40secs. This process allows the oil from parts of the engine back into the oil tank. From my understanding of this note, oil that drains back into the tank during this idle step, is not needed in the engine at idle speed, but is while riding.



NOTE: Running engine for at least 30 seconds allows the suction oil pump to drain the oil from the engine crankcase back into the oil tank. Not carrying out this step could result in overfilling the engine oil.


Perhaps when cold and not run at an idle before turning off (and cooling down), oil could still be in parts of the engine and not in the oil tank for a reading?:dontknow:

Good question.

 

[NancysToy]

The reason for starting an engine, then checking immediately thereafter is, indeed, to make sure the oil is pumped from the crankcase. A dry sump engine holds the oil in a remote tank, instead of the crankcase. Oil is pumped from the tank to the engine parts, then drains to the sump. A scavenging pump then returns the oil from the crankcase to the oil tank. To make things simple, when the engine is off, it is possible for some oil to leak back through the pump and lines to the sump. Although there are preventative measures, they sometimes fail or work less than 100%. As a result, part of the oil that would normally be in the oil tank ends up in the sump, resulting in a false low reading at the tank. Running briefly, then checking the level, pumps the collected oil back to the tank, but does not allow time for the oil to run back to the sump.

While it is possible to check the oil level when cold, it is less reliable. If the engine is not run, there may be oil collected in the sump. If the engine is run, the cold oil may not drain fully to the sump, resulting in a low reading. Sometimes there may be more oil in the sump than other times. Adding oil could raise the level too high....plus, the level may vary. Another factor is ambient conditions. Your oil level will read differently at 30 degrees than at 90 degrees air temperature. In addition, "Cold" is a relative term. Is an engine that was not run in two hour "cold"? ...four hours? ...eight hours? The most reliable thing is "full operating temperature", which is more constant.

 

[groundeffect]

Thanks for helping clarify, Scotty!
:thumbup:

 

[Lamonster]

My guess is your dipstick is too long. :joke:

 

[MarkLawson]

The reason for starting an engine, then checking immediately thereafter is, indeed, to make sure the oil is pumped from the crankcase. A dry sump engine holds the oil in a remote tank, instead of the crankcase. Oil is pumped from the tank to the engine parts, then drains to the sump. A scavenging pump then returns the oil from the crankcase to the oil tank. To make things simple, when the engine is off, it is possible for some oil to leak back through the pump and lines to the sump. Although there are preventative measures, they sometimes fail or work less than 100%. As a result, part of the oil that would normally be in the oil tank ends up in the sump, resulting in a false low reading at the tank. Running briefly, then checking the level, pumps the collected oil back to the tank, but does not allow time for the oil to run back to the sump.

While it is possible to check the oil level when cold, it is less reliable. If the engine is not run, there may be oil collected in the sump. If the engine is run, the cold oil may not drain fully to the sump, resulting in a low reading. Sometimes there may be more oil in the sump than other times. Adding oil could raise the level too high....plus, the level may vary. Another factor is ambient conditions. Your oil level will read differently at 30 degrees than at 90 degrees air temperature. In addition, "Cold" is a relative term. Is an engine that was not run in two hour "cold"? ...four hours? ...eight hours? The most reliable thing is "full operating temperature", which is more constant.

Scotty is right. I watched the maintenance DVD that came with my service manual from MidwestManuals & that was one of the thinks they reviewed. The oil has to be at operating temp & the engine must have been just shut off to get an accurate reading. If you wait too long, the oil could back-flow to equalize between the engine & oil tank. This would then result in a false low level reading, prompting someone to add oil when no more oil is really needed.

By the way, the manuals & DVD are BRP manuals & DVD. I don't know the circumstances by which MidwestManuals got them, but I'm very happy with them. The DVD is for service techs and has frequent tests throughout. You have to click on the right answer to proceed to the next section. If you get a question wrong, it automatically reviews the part of the DVD that pertains to the missed question. Then you get to try to answer it again. I now have the manuals on CD for my wife's '08 & our RT (which includes the service manual for the RT-622 trailer). They are PDF files and are fully searchable. Find them on ebay...

 

[Sarge707]

My guess is your dipstick is too long. :joke:

:hun: :roflblack: