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To kill or not to kill (switch), that is the question

As use the kill switch as taught in the MSF course.

Though every time I called it a "kill switch" I got yelled at. :D
 
On my spyder my thumb is right next to the kill switch. So, for me, the key would take a split second longer.

I expect that you are right. My logic in thinking that I could reach the key just as fast was in assuming that I would be off the bike when I needed to reach the ignition or kill switch. Just about all of my previous experience has been on 2-wheelers and most of that on dirt bikes. There has been many, many times when I needed to reach the kill switch and the bike and I were both on the ground. A few times on bikes on the street as well. I can think of only three occasions when I needed the kill switch or ignition key while still on the bike. All three involved stuck throttles.

Even though I probably will continue to use the key to kill the RT, I stand corrected.

Cotton
 
OK... Just my $.02...

We use the kill switch. I try to go to neutral as much as possible before hand as well.

Now that said... My brain is twisting here...

I would MUCH rather have the kill switch go bad or wear out than the ignition switch.

Please correct me if I am not fully informing this correctly...

We had the rear Frunk lock fall in our hands the first time we locked it. Long story short... BRP told our dealer that we had to replace both keys, tumblers and main switch. As they do not sell just the tumblers. So we got new keys and such. Something about programing issues and such.

And if I remember correctly the main switch is about $300 plus keys and programing of these keys. Oh and a new tumbler for the rear frunk and potentially the Trailer (As they give us a new one for it as well when new).

Aaaaaaanyway. I see the kill switch as a cheaper option parts wise than the main switch :thumbup:. I am sure the labor would be potentially cheaper as well... :spyder2::doorag:
 
kill

first gear,kill switch. (never use parking break) I remember many complaints of pedel getting stuck in lock position. Don't need that kind of trouble.
 
OK... Just my $.02...

We use the kill switch. I try to go to neutral as much as possible before hand as well.

Now that said... My brain is twisting here...

I would MUCH rather have the kill switch go bad or wear out than the ignition switch.

Please correct me if I am not fully informing this correctly...

We had the rear Frunk lock fall in our hands the first time we locked it. Long story short... BRP told our dealer that we had to replace both keys, tumblers and main switch. As they do not sell just the tumblers. So we got new keys and such. Something about programing issues and such.

And if I remember correctly the main switch is about $300 plus keys and programing of these keys. Oh and a new tumbler for the rear frunk and potentially the Trailer (As they give us a new one for it as well when new).

Aaaaaaanyway. I see the kill switch as a cheaper option parts wise than the main switch :thumbup:. I am sure the labor would be potentially cheaper as well... :spyder2::doorag:

Your assumption is that by using the kill switch you're NOT having to use the ignition switch. Obviously, you'll still use the ignition switch every time, regardless if you use the kill switch or not. By using the kill switch, you have introduced another potential point of failure into the equation, and one I believe is not necessary.

I see no savings here.
 
Your assumption is that by using the kill switch you're NOT having to use the ignition switch. Obviously, you'll still use the ignition switch every time, regardless if you use the kill switch or not. By using the kill switch, you have introduced another potential point of failure into the equation, and one I believe is not necessary.

I see no savings here.

Good point... My thinking was about the electrical portion not the mechanical... As by using the "Kill" here is no power to the switch anymore... :ohyea:

Maybe using the "Kill" just adds to the expense as we are using more parts :roflblack:

Unless of course you have left the key in the on position like a few can with the Lamont Key fob thingy...
 
When I purchased my RT S the dealer tech said "always use the key switch and not the kill switch to turn off the :spyder2:". Of course, this is the same tech that left tools and access panel in frunk, quart low on oil and frunk switch not adjusted last service. :yikes: :cus: :gaah:
 
kill switch...

Neutral, parking brake, kill switch off, reset kill switch to run, ignition switch off, remove key.
 
Well, this is about as emotional and divided as the questions about oil, seats, and octane. I'll be glad to muddy things further with my two cents.

I use the kill switch. There is a reason they were federally mandated on bikes. If you use it to shut the bike down, that becomes natural, and you will automatically do it if needed someday. I have always done the same with race bikes, for the same reason. Why not the key? How much control do you have when your hand reaches for the center of the handlebars? The idea is to keep your hands where they belong, doing what they need to do in a critical situation. Shutting off in the garage is not critical, but if the situation were serious someday, you would not want the delay of thinking what to do...or the possible loss of control because you did what came naturally from everyday use, and removed your hands from the bars. I never heard of an MSF course that did not advocate the use of the "kill switch". BRP is new to this game, their manual is not the Bible.

There, that should be worth at least two cents. :D
 
Well, this is about as emotional and divided as the questions about oil, seats, and octane. I'll be glad to muddy things further with my two cents.

I use the kill switch. There is a reason they were federally mandated on bikes. If you use it to shut the bike down, that becomes natural, and you will automatically do it if needed someday. I have always done the same with race bikes, for the same reason. Why not the key? How much control do you have when your hand reaches for the center of the handlebars? The idea is to keep your hands where they belong, doing what they need to do in a critical situation. Shutting off in the garage is not critical, but if the situation were serious someday, you would not want the delay of thinking what to do...or the possible loss of control because you did what came naturally from everyday use, and removed your hands from the bars. I never heard of an MSF course that did not advocate the use of the "kill switch". BRP is new to this game, their manual is not the Bible.

There, that should be worth at least two cents. :D
...

And still leave a little change in your pocket.....:coffee:


Freebob...:doorag:
 
MSF course teaches kill switch, then key.

john

Just an interesting story about Kill Switch, I ride weekly with a group of riders (Roadrunners) last week at one of our stops a jokester in our group
flipped one our riders BMW RT1200 Kill switch, We all had a good laugh when it got time to leave and BMW would not start panic time for him..:yikes:


Freebob...:doorag:
 
Kill switch question

Does it matter if you hit the kill switch first or turn the key off first when shutting down the Spyder? I know the owners manual says to hit the kill switch first. If it does matter, in what way or what is the potential harm?
 
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