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Time for an oil & filter change - how best to raise my Spyder?

carsong

New member
I'm about 1000 away from the 9,300 mile oil change. With a trip to the mountains coming up next month, I don't know if I should change it before or after. At any rate, the dealer charged me $250 for my 3,000 mile change. I ordered an oil change kit, thinking to save $150 in labor. I've always changed the oil on my bikes, in the past. My only worry is how to raise the Spyder in order to get to the drain plugs, while sitting level. Any suggestions?
 
This is how I do my RT, the higher I can get it the better, but don't forget to set the park brake.
 

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I just run the front tires up on some low ramps and put a scissor platform jack under the rear lower shock braces. It takes about 10 minutes to get it up level and pull the plugs. Takes a while longer to pull the tupperware off and change the filter, but not that long. I go through the entire checklist for service on every oil change.
 
I just run the front tires up on some low ramps and put a scissor platform jack under the rear lower shock braces...

I agree with the car ramp method and I don't even bother raising the rear wheel level; been doing it every change since the dealership did the 3K service. The crankcase and clutch cover plugs are on the rearward side of the engine so all the oil that needs to drain out will. I proved it to myself with the first change; added 5.0 qt and with the engine oil at normal operating temperature, two cycles of the cooling fans, the oil was right where it was supposed to be, at the Min mark on the dip stick. Six or so additional oz and it's right where I like it, midway between Min and Max marks.
 
Car ramps work great, but instead of pulling up on them, back onto them. That leaves the ramp part totally out of the way.
 
Luckily, my driveway slopes upward from the garage. Here's what I do............and the bike is level!

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I back up the ramps and put my floor jack under the back get it high enough to put my safety stand under it!!
 
I just put my floor jack under the center frame and lift enough to get to the drain plugs. And keeps it level. Wheels are still touching the ground. Can use blocks to aid in your safety in case jack drops.
 
I just put my floor jack under the center frame and lift enough to get to the drain plugs. And keeps it level. Wheels are still touching the ground. Can use blocks to aid in your safety in case jack drops.

What is the benefit of keeping the Spyder level if the drain plugs are in the rear of the engine & trans?
 
Not tying to be a smart azz but this is how i lift my spyder .I do some work on the side to help pay for the lift.
 

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Car ramps work great, but instead of pulling up on them, back onto them. That leaves the ramp part totally out of the way.
That's the way I did it today, and it works a treat. I did have to make a couple runs at the ramps, since the rear tire started to spin when the Spyder was part
way up the ramp.
 
Last fall, I changed my oil with the bike level, and used a pan as shown above. This year I'm gonna use ramps. Just makes oil bolt access that much easier..
 
What is the benefit of keeping the Spyder level if the drain plugs are in the rear of the engine & trans?

I prefer to keep it level as when you tilt it like with ramps you may not get all oil and ? out of the drain holes. Some it it might migrate further back. JMO
 
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