throttle position problem

[mjw930]

Back to Tweeder's issues. You need to remove all the mods and go back to stock if you expect your dealer or BRP to do anything about your issues.

It would seem BRP has dialed enough margin into the system to handle the Hindle exhaust. I suggest replacing the stock airbox and O2 sensors, do the 15 minute cycle to reset the ECM and see there that leaves you.

Freeflow filters and exhausts without significant ECM retuning is a recipe for dissatisfaction. You can't retune an ecm by faking out the O2 sensor loop and adding fuel pressure, you need to get access to the ECM itself. Until there's a tool or hack to get access to the fuel maps IMHO you are wasting your time and money.

Trust me, I've been around EFI long enough to know that the backroom hacks with fuel pressure and O2 sensor mods are big bandaids, they will never replace proper ECM mapping.

EDIT: I hadn't gotten to the point of searcing EFI mods and now I see there's a pulse width modulator (aka Juicebox) available. That's a decent way to compensate for added airflow and they actually work quite well with the O2 sensors still in the loop. Mostly because the O2 sensors are only used in steady state, low load conditions where the PWM's have the least effect. You shouldn't need to play with fuel pressure unless you've gotten into the motor or have added boost so that mod seems like a huge waste of money.

I still would rather modify the ECM tables, I may talk to my friends at TTS to see what they might be able to come up with.

 

[DragonSpyder]

When you have the O2 modifier you will not want to run the fuel pressure above 58Lbs. Quickest fix is to set fuel pressure lower. The system will load-up above 58Lbs unless you remove the O2 modifier. However, the higher the fuel pressure the better the performance on top-end. So, another option is to remove the O2 modifier and then you can run pressure up to 62-65Lbs.

 

[mjw930]

Be careful with the increased fuel pressure. The ECM in the Spyder is a feedback type. On most feedback type (closed loop) ECM's they have a block learn table that is used to record deviations from the baseline VE tables. If you increase the fuel pressure AND have the O2 sensors active the ECM will back off the pulse width of the injectors to compensate for the increased fuel flow to get it's desired AFR. If you then remove the increased pressure or remove the O2 sensors you end up with lean conditions because the block learn tables will be taking fuel out based on the learned higher fuel flow.

If you add fuel pressure and have the O2 sensors bypassed the block table will not be modified and the result will be a richer mixture.

Bottom line, If you've added fuel pressure and retained your O2 sensors your best course of action is to reduce the fuel pressure to stock and run the bike long enough to overwrite the block learn values OR see if your dealer can reset the ECM to factory values. You can then remove the sensors, use the sensor bypass and increase the fuel pressure to get your desired results.

 

[Lamonster]

What sensor the stock o2 or leane the o2 deleter in? Im guess i'll have to get the juice box I wasn't sure how much it would help as i'm not stock. I didn't want to bring it into the dealer just incase it was something I did then I have to pay them and possibly have problems with the warranty.

You don't have a sensor now, you have a fixed signal. Put the stock one back in. I'm not sure why Ken would even recommend what he's doing now when the Juicebox is so much better than what he's doing to try and trick the ecm. :dontknow:

As far as taking your Spyder to the dealer, you crossed that line a long time ago when you modified your fuel pressure. You wouldn't expect the dealer to pay for your mods would you? If you're going to play you need to pay for your mistakes if any.

 

[tweeder]

You don't have a sensor now, you have a fixed signal. Put the stock one back in. I'm not sure why Ken would even recommend what he's doing now when the Juicebox is so much better than what he's doing to try and trick the ecm. :dontknow:

As far as taking your Spyder to the dealer, you crossed that line a long time ago when you modified your fuel pressure. You wouldn't expect the dealer to pay for your mods would you? If you're going to play you need to pay for your mistakes if any.

ll try the stock o2 and see what happens. Last year When I bought mods the juice box wasn't avaliable. Ken has all 3 to work together for the best results. I'll have to buy a nother fuel pressure regulator as Ihad to alter mine. As for the mods, the nice thing about boltons is that they can come off and the dealer should be none the wiser. I'm waitin on the warranty to be up then i'll tear into the motor, or if th guy puttin a busa motor in it has any luck...thats another possibility.

 

[tweeder]

My name is tweered and i'm a horsepower addict:firstplace:

 

[Lamonster]

As for the mods, the nice thing about boltons is that they can come off and the dealer should be none the wiser. I'm waitin on the warranty to be up then i'll tear into the motor, or if th guy puttin a busa motor in it has any luck...thats another possibility.

That is if your dealer doesn't read these boards. I do know that BRP reads these boards. Sorry I just feel like if you mod your bike or your Spyder and that causes something to fail you should manup and pay for it, not the dealer. Just the way I was raised I guess.

 

[tweeder]

That is if your dealer doesn't read these boards. I do know that BRP reads these boards. Sorry I just feel like if you mod your bike or your Spyder and that causes something to fail you should manup and pay for it, not the dealer. Just the way I was raised I guess.

Oh yeah I agree I just don't want to pay them to fix it if I can do that myself. I don't make $70/hour well if i'm on overtime but I just have a hard time coughing that kind of money up.

 

[tweeder]

well I put the stock O2 back and its still doin it, I left the battery dissconnected for the better part of an hour. It was just a hair better in 5 instead of a few millimeters of play there was only a couple in that sweet spot where it acts up. I did notice that yesterday morning when I got off gravies at 6, I left work with no bars on the temp guage and I couldn't get it to act up but as soon as it warmed up to 1 bar I could get it to do it. The temp was 4 degrees celsius that morn. I'll try the same thing this mornin and see if I wasn't sleepin or somethin.

 

[aubierules]

That is if your dealer doesn't read these boards. I do know that BRP reads these boards. Sorry I just feel like if you mod your bike or your Spyder and that causes something to fail you should manup and pay for it, not the dealer. Just the way I was raised I guess.

:agree:

 

[tweeder]

Well I talked to ken and it seem as though the way I was setting up the pressure was wrong. I'd turn the key on and the fuel pump would prime then when it would stop, and that is wherer I set the pressure to 60 at. But what Ken said is to turn the key and watch what the highest reading is at, its at its highest when the pump is priming and then drops about 5 psi at rest when its not working. So I really had my pressure past 65 psi, so I did it propperly and set it down to 58 psi and no moreopcorn:sound. I did this with the stock O2 sensor in so i'll have to email ken and see if he suggest puttin it back in or leave it stock. I think I might do this as i'm thinkin on gettin the two brothers juice box as well.