Threw codes, C0040, C006C, and P0000 - resolution!

[D-Daddy]

Hey guys, problem, threw 3 codes, c0040, c006c,and p0000, ugh, performance ok, no brake light or hazard lights. Researched, found 10a fuse blown. Short story, I believe it’s the brake light assembly sw. $48.99. Ow, is nothing cheap on this lady! Is it possible to remove the switch and check continuity on contacts and do I have to have a tech using Buds to reset any perimeters? Thanks in advance. Btw, it's a 2015 RTL SE6, mileage 16,600. D-Daddy. Ps sw #710003412

 

[trikermutha]

Sounds like the codes were thrown because the 10 Amp fuse was blown. Now which 10 amp fuse blew? You have to see what is on that 10 amp circuit.

What makes you think it's the brake switch?

 

[Wmoater]

Before you buy get a air blower with a flexible hose. Laying on the ground from the front you will see a slot where the pedal bracket goes in. Take a spray bottle with water only and spray some into that slot. Then put the air hose there with a flexible tube and spray out. Pump the brake pedal. Do this process several times. I had mud around my switch after a rain storm and that cleared it up. Don’t use anything except water and air. I now clean mine at the end of each season. Yes to remove switch need to release the muffler springs and bolt in back. Then remove the plastic case. Read this first. I outlined it fairly well at the end post 17 https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?143424-Code-C0040-and-C006C

 

[D-Daddy]

It’s the 10 amp labeled brake light/ hazard. Thx for the help

 

[D-Daddy]

Well got into it yesterday, found last M8 in top back chrome lower panel had a lock nut on backside. Got all M8’s removed. Now there’s a large bolt,15mm head holding the black heavy floorboard support. Only about 1/2” for wrench.then I noticed 2 hex head screws holding master cylinder on the back,(found 1, 2nd haven’t located) plus rigid brake lines into it. Looks like molded female extrusions on back chrome plate. Of course saw 2 on top thru tubular frame. (Probably M8) wouldn’t you know BLS buried under all that mess. Afraid of damage to brake lines or fittings. Any kind suggestions here. Shop manual doesn’t show much clarity, Tks. D-Daddy

 

[D-Daddy]

Hey guys appreciate all the threads on the BLS codes. Another related question. Got her down to all bolts out, except 2 on top of cluster holding the chrome floorboard support. The 2 holding the master cylinder on, are aluminum one shot deal to be replaced when changing the BLS. Apparently the heads are 5.5mm. Kept trying size till was tight. Believe those 2 are M8 x 1.181” in length. Sprayed them with PDQ Blaster and some silicone throw in. There are not breaking loose. Possibly throw a little heat, then ice water, tap with small hammer. Any suggestions, found back one, how to get to it? Tks, very flustered over this malfunction. Help appreciated.

 

[Peter Aawen]

If it's a tight bolt on a Spyder, then it's almost certainly courtesy of all the bloody yellow locktite Can Am slathers on just about everything!! :gaah:

Being that it's likely to be locktite, or at least BRP's super version of the stuff, you'll probably get the best results by using a little inducted heat on it - anything to get the locktite to revert to liquid, but not damage any of the bits around it! Sometimes, a drill & Ezy-outs will be the fall back option - the yellow stuff they've used gallons of REALLY doesn't want to let go! :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[D-Daddy]

Yes, BRP hasn’t learned less is best. Lol. Don’t understand why they used aluminum socket head bolts. That’s an invitation for disaster. Rounded out hex or broken bolt. Will let you know how if any progress is made. Got 2 weeks before replacement is delivered. Tks.

 

[D-Daddy]

Well riders, after 2 months of being down, waiting on appointment, researching, reading threads, dealer admits he didn’t know problem. Referred me to another dealership 100 miles away. Will cut to chase. Disconnected all after mkt LED's, add-ons. Dismantled light ass’y. Used separate dc supply. Checked all lights, etc on functionality. All good, touch brake, blows fuse,(10amp ). Scratch head? Hmmm... thought trunk mounted brake light was oem. Wasn’t. Disconnected that gremlin. Made 5 pin male/female 18” jumper, removed rear right tail light ass’y. Plugged directly into trike harness. Worked like a jewel. That add-on had a dead short - Lesson learned. Hope this helps fellow riders/owners.

Really appreciate all threads and assistance. Ride safe! D-Daddy