This is belt vibration, right?

[rodentrancher]

In the process of putting the first few hundred miles on my 2017 RT. I've noticed an odd vibration that starts around 70 mph and smooths out at just over 80 mph. (Unfortunately, the maximum speed limit around here is 75 mph, so "outrunning" the vibration zone isn't a long term solution.) This isn't an especially strong vibration, but it has an oddly irritating, buzzing, grinding quality - reminds me of the feeling you get when the dentist uses the abrasive head on his drill to burnish a new filling.

Searching the threads here, I'm pretty sure this is drive belt vibration. Just wondering if there is anything else I should check before ordering a belt tensioner?

 

[Peter Aawen]

While it is pretty likely that your vibration is the belt, if your Spyder still has the OE tires then there is the possibility that it's being caused by dodgy tires!! And I'm not trying to implicate poor wheel alignment or balancing here, cos poor &/or rapid tread wear due to poor wheel alignment IS usually correctable if caught & identified soon enough, & tire balance issues are rarely only felt at certain speeds.... and they too are readily correctable! What I'm talking about is the irregular & patchy tread wear issues caused by poor tire construction or failures/defects in the tire &/or tread compound itself! :shocked:

So just to try & eliminate any of the tires, start out by checking the front tires & making sure they have the same pressure! Once you know the pressures up front are very close to each other, check ALL your tires carefully for tread or sidewall issues. Look for lumps or bulges, even 'blisters' in the sidewall or tread, and only then start checking for wear issues. Start out by lightly running your hand (bare if you can, but do be gentle & careful & yes, you will get dirty! ) along the tire & feel the way the tread blocks pass under your hand... if it feels like one side of any of the tread blocks may have a 'sharp' edge, run your hand the other way to confirm, and if there IS a sharp edge on any of the tread blocks, see if you can identify WHERE the sharp edge actually is on those blocks, ie, front edge of the tread blocks as the tire rotates; back edge as the tire rotates; inside or outside on which tire; or left edge or right edge of one or more tires.... cos if you DO have sharp edges on any tread blocks (& any corresponding smooth edges on the other sides of those tread blocks) or uneven tread wear around or across the tread, your vibration MIGHT be caused by dodgy tires.....

The OE tires are renowned for poor construction issues causing this sort of tread wear issue & possibly also vibrations, making it extremely difficult if not impossible to align correctly &/or balance the tires &/or stop the vibrations, as well as creating rapid tire wear & in some cases creating quite dangerous tire &/or traction or steering problems!! In a few cases the tires have delaminated & that could cause a very dangerous & impossible to control steering &/or drive issues if it occurs at speed or in traffic, the twisties, etc!! So while the most likely cause of your vibrations probably IS the belt, with a fairly easy & relatively inexpensive long-term solution (I am ignoring the cheap & nasty BRP 'solution' when I say that!) you shouldn't overlook the potential for shoddy tires being involved!! Check them carefully, & if any of your tires do show dodgy or uneven wear in a way that isn't clearly the result of poor wheel alignment or balance issues, then I'd suggest you get rid of the OE Spec tires as soon as you can & replace them with something better - & btw, anything with the same or better load & speed rating & a matching bead profile is likely to be a fair bit better!! :thumbup:

 

[rodentrancher]

While it is pretty likely that your vibration is the belt, if your Spyder still has the OE tires then there is the possibility that it's being caused by dodgy tires!!

Thank you Peter, for a very informative reply. I have checked (and corrected) the pressures, but it didn't occur to me to carefully check out the tires in the way you describe (was making what I see are unjustified assumptions that the almost-new OEM tires would be fine except for pressure). I will have a careful look/feel at the tires today.

Oddly, the dealer apparently filled all three tires to 24 psi. I corrected to the pressures specified in the owners manual (20 psi for the front two, 28 for the rear). Doesn't seem to have made any difference in the vibration.

 

[tehrlich]

My vibration was significantly reduced when I installed the RonJon antisway bar and replaced the crappy stock shocks with Fox shocks.

My alignment has always been good (I've had it checked with laser alignment,) but that could be a part too.


Then, later... I had car tires installed along with a belt anti vibration device. Woah.... big big difference.

Later, later, I installed the centramatic wheel balancers, and now there isn't any vibration I can detect.

Smoooooth!

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Are the tires new? When we got our RT brand new, the tires of course were brand new and caused a vibration for about the first 300 miles until they "wore in". I had them balanced a couple times during that period, but until they actually got some miles on em, they sucked.....granted they still suck, but the vibration is gone. The speeds that you describe your vibration happening though, are pretty much the norm for belt vibration. Seems to happen around 70-75 mph for most folks. Most just avoid that speed range, deal with it, or purchase a vibration dampener......I guess it all depends on your travels.....for me it's a pretty rare occurence to be driving in that range of speed

 

[johnsimion]

It's very easy to read this forum and convince yourself that you're feeling a vibration from the Spyder when it's actually the roadway. In addition to checking for the proper tire air pressure, wheel balancing and possible tire defects, ride the Spyder on several types of pavement finishes before you conclude that you actually have a vibration in the Spyder itself. Note that it's easy to notice a vibration, but noticing "no vibration" is a lot more difficult since that's what's normal and expected. After reading this forum, I had almost convinced myself that I had a vibration issue when I went for a 100 mile ride and experienced a mild vibration exactly like you described. Later the same day I was on a different roadway at the exact same speeds and lo and behold, there was no vibration. I didn't even notice that there was no more vibration -- my wife was the one who pointed it out. The vibration would be the same on every roadway if it was in the Spyder. I don't deny that the belt apparently can set up some kind of harmonic vibration, but I think the finish on the roadway may be able to do it, too.

 

[BryanSD]

Give it a little more time.

I have a one month old 2017 RT and just about done putting a 1000 miles on it. I too had an odd vibration around the 70-75 MPH range with just over 150 miles on the odometer. Around that time, I had a loose lug nut that need to be tightened but I don't think that was the cause of the vibration. Within a week after the vibration...it just seemed to go away. I don't know if I just got to a better understanding how the Spyder performs with more experience or if the new tires on the machine just needed to settle a bit. I suspect it was both. I would follow John Simon's advice and give yourself a little more time. If the vibration doesn't go way, before you go out and start buying a new set of tires and other equipment, I'd take it back to the dealer and have them check it out.

 

[UtahPete]

In the process of putting the first few hundred miles on my 2017 RT. I've noticed an odd vibration that starts around 70 mph and smooths out at just over 80 mph. (Unfortunately, the maximum speed limit around here is 75 mph, so "outrunning" the vibration zone isn't a long term solution.) This isn't an especially strong vibration, but it has an oddly irritating, buzzing, grinding quality - reminds me of the feeling you get when the dentist uses the abrasive head on his drill to burnish a new filling. Searching the threads here, I'm pretty sure this is drive belt vibration. Just wondering if there is anything else I should check before ordering a belt tensioner?

If the vibration bothers you, try a belt tensioner. Most of us just accept the harmonic vibration and go with it.

 

[Fat Baxter]

Slight vibration at 70-75 mph, under a slight load (as in going slightly uphill). Belt harmonics. I haven't noticed it lately, but I've likely grown to ignore it. I used to ride BMWs, and they had weird harmonics, so it didn't bother me.

But when I put on aftermarket tires, a lot of handling issues cleared up. So maybe that solved the belt harmonic issue and I just didn't notice.

 

[Bigmo]

Belt vibration

I'm reading all these replies and I'm puzzled that no one suggested contacting BRP for the issue. I have a 2018 RT Limited with about 1800 miles and noticed the vibrations the very first day. My dealer says to get used to it. I don't accept this answer. This is a BRP problem and they know about it. BRP should fix it, and not going like many on this thread spend tons of money replacing this or that. I am in contact with BRP for this very issue. If enough of us complaint loud enough, I can assure you they will do something about it. Belt vibrations will caused it to fail prematurely and then you'll be told that it is not covered under warranty. Spend more money. Unacceptable.

 

[stmike 1800]

I also have this vib on my since day one on my 2018 RTL .I have contacted BRP care ,and guess what they do not care !!! Most on here are loaded with money and buy fixes on there own .

 

[spyderCodes]

The long belt length and the difficulties of manufacturing completely identical complex machines lead to the harmonics that a lot of Spyders experience.

It is amazing to me that BRP has yet to acknowledge this and place a proper belt tensioner in production.

It is too bad owner's must re-engineer the product,

 

[Roadster Renovations]

For the F3, the cost of our Vibration Damper is $135.80 including shipping. That includes a warranty of 1 year on all parts and 2 years on the roller and bearings. The RT one is slightly higher.

https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/products

 

[Bigmo]

I also have this vib on my since day one on my 2018 RTL .I have contacted BRP care ,and guess what they do not care !!! Most on here are loaded with money and buy fixes on there own .

Be a pest to BRP, and keep the subject alive. I had several mail exchange with their customer service with the last one this morning. Do not accept "go to your dealer". They won't do anything for you. They know about the problem. They need to fix it...

 

[rodentrancher]

A lot of good information in this thread, thank you all. I've followed Peter's advice to carefully check out the tires for defects, nothing obviously wrong that I am able to detect. I have set pressures to the specifications in the manual for a 2017 RT (20 psi front, 28 rear).

At this point, I'm going to put 1000 miles on it, then check it out on a variety of road surfaces and see how it seems then. If the vibration still bothers me at that point, I guess it'll be time to buy a tensioner.

I can't quite bring myself to replace the almost new OEM tires yet, but I'm going to be looking for a mechanic in the Denver area who will install some of the recommended car tires when the OEMs are worn down (I've neither the tools nor the skills to do that myself).

Many thanks for the help.

 

[canamjhb]

[I can't quite bring myself to replace the almost new OEM tires yet]

One of the benefits of replacing the OEM Kendas is that better tires cost much less.....

 

[Road-Kill]

How do you know they are better?
My front Kenda tires are about to be replaced after 26,000 trusted miles.
My rear Kenda tire averages 13,000 miles.
and that's with a softer tire rated for a lightweight vehicle to aid in traction.

[I can't quite bring myself to replace the almost new OEM tires yet]

One of the benefits of replacing the OEM Kendas is that better tires cost much less.....

 

[tehrlich]

A lot of good information in this thread, thank you all. I've followed Peter's advice to carefully check out the tires for defects, nothing obviously wrong that I am able to detect. I have set pressures to the specifications in the manual for a 2017 RT (20 psi front, 28 rear).

At this point, I'm going to put 1000 miles on it, then check it out on a variety of road surfaces and see how it seems then. If the vibration still bothers me at that point, I guess it'll be time to buy a tensioner.

I can't quite bring myself to replace the almost new OEM tires yet, but I'm going to be looking for a mechanic in the Denver area who will install some of the recommended car tires when the OEMs are worn down (I've neither the tools nor the skills to do that myself).

Many thanks for the help.

Just an opinion, but replacing your crappy OEM tires with car tires will significantly improve the performance.

I have two sets of front wheels. One set has Yokohama Avid tires. The other has Krappy Kendas. Swapping them out, and you can definitely feel the difference in the turns. Will the KK's last a while in the front? Sure, but the stiffer-walled tires are awesome to turn!

 

[canamjhb]

How do you know they are better?

Just read the sidewall. It will give you a lot of information about the tire's capabilities. But, also ask who would switch back to Kendas after going with ANY other brand of CTs. Not me.

 

[ejstrickland]

My 2017 RT Limited vibration

I too have a new 2017 RT Limited Spyder, and I have almost 2000 miles on it. I too get a vibration at highway speed, 70-75 mph. I can't make it happen and it seems to be on all roads. Not sure what to do about it, but to me it kind of feels like it's possibly in the engine. Also, I have to say, the Spyder seems like it could get very scary at highway speed if I had to make a sudden swerve for an object in the road. I have only ever owned regular motorcycles and those kind of feel more stable than my Spyder does on the highway. I feel like it would or could roll quite easily. What is everyone's thoughts about this?

Scared.

I have a one month old 2017 RT and just about done putting a 1000 miles on it. I too had an odd vibration around the 70-75 MPH range with just over 150 miles on the odometer. Around that time, I had a loose lug nut that need to be tightened but I don't think that was the cause of the vibration. Within a week after the vibration...it just seemed to go away. I don't know if I just got to a better understanding how the Spyder performs with more experience or if the new tires on the machine just needed to settle a bit. I suspect it was both. I would follow John Simon's advice and give yourself a little more time. If the vibration doesn't go way, before you go out and start buying a new set of tires and other equipment, I'd take it back to the dealer and have them check it out.