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Thermosstat

Hi jcthorne,

Re: What you do not get here is there are 2 thermostats.

I do get that. What I did not know until I saw the thread that Lamonster did back in '09 was at what temps the fan comes on/goes off.

In his post Lamonster shows us that he saw 4 bars @ 175* and 5 bars @ 197*. I seriously doubt that these are exact numbers but they do put us in the old ball park. This type of info begins to tell us something about what Can-Am has designed/wants the Spyder to run at.

Re: This is exactly what is happening on warm days when your gauges is at 5 bars.

I live in the Portland, OR area. A HOT day here is 90* and above; nothing like the southern climes with their 105+* days.

We are in the midst of a heat wave for here; every day has been about 90* - 95*. I have had the Spyder go to 8 bars and into Limp Home Mode due to the engine heat. I can get about 6 bars in traffic these days.

If it was actually maintaining 5 bars in these temps/traffic I would not be concerned.

A lot of you are saying it cannot be changed. I am a Mech. Engr. and I reject that type of thinking. It may be that it cannot be changed; but why not give it a try?

As mentioned up thread, if I can get parts to get things changed, I'll let everyone here know.

Jerry Baumchen
 
If you are seeing 6 or 8 bars and limp mode in 95 deg air temps, you have something wrong with your bike. You don't need a cooler thermostat, you need your cooling system looked at as part of it is NOT working.

Your bike should maintain near 5 bars in temps well above 100 deg. Humidity has nothing (or very little) to do with it. Don't start to redesign the system thinking there is a design deficiency. Yours is just not working as designed.
 
You've got something going on with your cooling system for sure with those temps. A bad stat could cause overheating, but it could also be a blockage/partially clogged radiator, a bad or improperly installed cap allowing coolant loss, etc etc. Time to pull things apart and give everything a good service.
If you do go with the AF1 stat let us know how you like it! Good luck.
 
Hi DrewNJ,

Re: If you do go with the AF1 stat let us know how you like it! Good luck.

Thanks; I found stats that look like this in both 65*C and 75*C:


attachment.php



Does the Spyder stat look like this?

Thanks,

Jerry Baumchen
 

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I agree

You've got something going on with your cooling system for sure with those temps. A bad stat could cause overheating, but it could also be a blockage/partially clogged radiator, a bad or improperly installed cap allowing coolant loss, etc etc. Time to pull things apart and give everything a good service.
If you do go with the AF1 stat let us know how you like it! Good luck.
It sounds like there is an underlying problem that's causing your overheating. Find that first.:thumbup:
 
Hey Jerry, just sent you a PM but yes, that's the part. Not 100% sure they are interchangeable since I've never done one and don't know anyone who has... Yet.... Lol. Good luck and keep us posted on how it all works out.
 
Hi DrewNJ,

Re: just sent you a PM

I just PM'd back at you.

Yes, I will keep everyone posted on what, if anything, happens.

Jerry Baumchen
 
I am in the midst of a serious heat issue on my 2010 RT. Case in discussion with BRP and not sure where it is for sure yet.
The RT ran three to four bars at all times, summer and winter (I am a year around rider). then about the end of last year it started running a lot hotter and then got to touch the side panel the frame under the seat or the gas tank. Long story form there to now and I said, not sure what BPR is going to do.

The tech had a different idea about the over heat. He wondered if those bad hoses were contributing a super lean, very hot cylinder. then I read somewhere about a ECM (??) electrical redo of some kind. Anybody got any ideas.
Oldmanzues
 
Hi Oldmanzues,

Re: The RT ran three to four bars at all times, summer and winter (I am a year around rider). then about the end of last year it started running a lot hotter

If you want to consider installing a lower rated thermostat look here ( and I do NOT know if they will fit at this time ):

http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=753

I am only offering this info for you to consider, I am not endorsing do it.

Jerry Baumchen
 
Hi folks,

Re: Yes, I will keep everyone posted on what, if anything, happens.

I am going to need some coolant once the stat gets here. How much cooling liquid does the '08 Spyder take? I would guess that maybe I'll be draining almost all of it out while doing the stat changeover.

Thanks to all you shade tree mechanics in advance,

Jerry Baumchen
 
Hi to all of you shade tree mechanics out there,

My Spyder seems to love 5 bars on the temp guage. Today ( a warm 86* ) it got to 6 bars.

Is there a lower temp thermostat that can be put in to keep it running cooler?

Jerry Baumchen
Too lazy to look it up somewhere :sour:

When was your coolant changed. If it's over 2 years, change it. I change my own and I use Prestone premixed 50/50 and I add 5 ounces of Redline Water Wetter to the 1 gallon 50/50 premixed . My Spyder RS-S SE5 runs less 5 bars in the hottest weather. If your still have a problem PM me.

Mike
 
Hi Mike,

Re: If your still have a problem PM me.

No problems yet as I have yet to start this effort.

I did just PM you for some more specific info,

Thanks,

Jerry Baumchen
 
Hi folks,

Re: No problems yet as I have yet to start this effort.

Well, an update. The 75* C thermostat came in but it would not fit. The opening that is for the hose from the engine to the stat is smaller on the Aprilia stat; ~ 25 mm for the BRP stat vs 18 mm for the Aprilia stat. I could do some Rube Goldberg reworking to get it to fit but the concern is that the smaller opening would reduce the coolant flow; and that is the wrong way to go to reduce the temps. Plus, that would be one more thing that would go wrong somewhere a couple of 100 miles from home. :banghead:

So, I ended up just changing out the coolant ( Thanks DrewNJ ) and I will be returning the parts.

I doubt that I will spend anymore time on this effort; unless something new happens.

Jerry Baumchen
 
Damn....that sucks. So close!!!

Just thinking out loud. .....if the smaller end is on the bypass side from the motor the size wouldn't make much difference, as once the stat sees the temp it's going to open. As long as the radiator/engine sides are the same I'd think it would be good????

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
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Hi DrewNJ,

Re: ....that sucks. So close!!!

Yup. If I were 40 yrs younger I would had a go at it. But, not anymore; I want to avoid potential problems, not create them.

It was tempting but a motorcycle broken down on the side of the road is a different animal than a car broken down on the side of the road.

BTDT

Jerry Baumchen

PS) I actually did go to NAPA auto parts and bought a short section of rubber hose to increase the OD on that opening so my Spyder hose would fit. I eventually decided that it was just too Rube Goldberg for me.
 
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