the new shock position - Pro,s and Con,s

[All Around]

Sure now that i've drilled out two spyders this comes out. Onece you have drilled the holes can you go back to this way. Looks stronger!

 

[Bob Denman]

Why not? Could you de-frunk the bike, and weld the new bracketry into place? That ought to reinforce everything... :thumbup:

 

[bmwlarry]

Len

Pricing?

Preorder?

Larry

 

[Bob Denman]

Larry...
Good point! :thumbup: :agree:
Or... if we pre-pay for them; would you install them for us at SF2013??

 

[DrewNJ]

Geometry isn't one of my strongest games... pps:
Moving the shock mount inboard and away from the wheel might have a much different effect on how the suspension feels because you're now creating basically a "see-saw"... depending on how much distance there is between the new pivot point and the wheel hub will affect how much it affects the spring during inputs... (I think that it'd increase the force imparted to the spring...)
This would make the bike more sensitive to the spring rate and preload settings.

You've got the idea.
Basically, some good rules of thumb for front shock geometry.
-Move the shock inward at the upper mount will add initial body roll until a certain point (suspension will feel initially soft). Then as the shock compresses it feels stiffer and will increase traction on slick surface.
-Move the shock outward at the upper mount will reduce body roll. The shock works more but it's more of an even feel. Easier to turn but easier to lose traction on slick surfaces.
We always laid our shocks down at the top mount more for slick tracks and when traction was good straighten them up.

-Move the shock inward at the bottom mount will make the suspension feel softer. The shocks work harder and the suspension can feel mushy. The ride is much better for rough surfaces though the steering can be feel less responsive.
-Move the shock outward at the bottom mount makes the steering feel more nimble and more responsive. More feel. Quicker turns. This can also stiffen the ride a bit too.

It's a compromise. A nimble responsive stable setup is not going to be as soft and comfortable of a ride as a mushy caddy style setup. But your soft caddy setup is not going to handle as well when riding hard in the twisties....just like cars. :thumbup:

Again, SO much is rider preference and WHERE and HOW you ride. It would be neat to have multiple mounting points at both ends to be able to better tune the suspension to how it feels the best.

 

[Ken Thomas]

Been working closely with elka and a few other people to build and design a bracket that does not have to require to remove your front trunk and drill your frame out, and will add strength and be a very simple install. We finally got it done and currently have them equipped on 2 Spyders being rode and approved by spyderlovers members now. It's taken a while since my original idea to relocation the front shocks but we finally have it. Made of 6061 alloy aluminum, it looks sharp and takes less than 15 minutes to install, with no front truck removal and no drilling out of your frame.

YES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:yes::yes::yes::yes:

 

[Raptor]

Another option guys is to reposition the shocks at the bottom, moving them inward to change the angle. We ran like that for a little while but personally I thought the handling was a bit better keeping the bottoms outboard closer to the wheel. The differences are subtle, but noticeable and totally personal preference....
Your not moving them very much...

I actually like your idea here. Have you actually done this to an RS? If so, how?

 

[Bob Denman]

You've got the idea.
Move the shock inward at the bottom mount will make the suspension feel softer. The shocks work harder and the suspension can feel mushy. The ride is much better for rough surfaces though the steering can be feel less responsive.
-Move the shock outward at the bottom mount makes the steering feel more nimble and more responsive. More feel. Quicker turns. This can also stiffen the ride a bit too.

:shocked: I got one right??? Living proof that even this blind hog can find an acorn once in a while! hyea:

 

[DrewNJ]

I actually like your idea here. Have you actually done this to an RS? If so, how?

Somewhat and very limited.....haha. I've relocated the shocks at the upper mount in two positions and the lower mount at the arm in two positions. Haven't had a ton of time to play with all the different combinations possible and it's only been 20 degrees here recently.
-I had the shocks mounted at the arms inward with some brackets (upper mount in the stock location) and didn't like it much. Haven't had a chance to try them out past the original mounts/closer to the wheel but would like to see if it is even possible??
-I had (and currently have) the shocks mounted more upright at the upper mount (stock lower arm mount) and I like this better.
One thing to note: Different shock positions don't seem to affect (that I could tell) high speed highway cruising much, if any.....
I wouldn't mind trying some other positions (especially closer toward the wheel) but just have to get the time. It would be really cool to have maybe 3 or 4 positions at both the upper and lower mounts...:thumbup:

 

[DrewNJ]

:shocked: I got one right??? Living proof that even this blind hog can find an acorn once in a while! hyea:

Haha....Bob, you are my hero!

 

[Bob Denman]

3 or 4 positions at both ends?? :shocked: That's a set of brackets worth seeing! :2thumbs: