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the new shock position - Pro,s and Con,s

chris56

Active member
no Chance to ryde here (cold and snow) - so would be enough time to play around with some Mods - it Looks like the easiest way to get a better handling for my "old" RT is to change the mounting Position of my front-Shocks (2011-modell) to the 2013 Version.. Whats your Ideas about that - who made a testryde ???? Spyder Shock Relocation v2 003.jpgSpyder Shock Relocation v2 004.jpgSpyder Shock Relocation v2 006.jpg pics from drewDJ thank
 
No but I was allowed to test the german "Wilbers" shocks on an RS - much to "hard" for touring here in the alps..I have the (2011) Shocks on "three" because my Girl found the harder positions too uncomfortable. If nobody is offering a Version with (push-button) adjustment of the shocks I would not spend that money ...
 
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Did forget to show this pic where you see the whole for the shock if the Job is finished ..
 

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Did forget to show this pic where you see the whole for the shock if the Job is finished ..

Nice work, should make a difference.

Have you considered a performance sway bar? Gives you a much flatter cornering ability without making the ride stiffer.
 
HANDLING OPTION

Nice work, should make a difference.

Have you considered a performance sway bar? Gives you a much flatter cornering ability without making the ride stiffer.

Chris diffinately consider Ron's sway bar....IMHO...it"ll make a bigger improvement than performance shocks when you consider the price point......Mike...:thumbup:
 
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Been working closely with elka and a few other people to build and design a bracket that does not have to require to remove your front trunk and drill your frame out, and will add strength and be a very simple install. We finally got it done and currently have them equipped on 2 Spyders being rode and approved by spyderlovers members now. It's taken a while since my original idea to relocation the front shocks but we finally have it. Made of 6061 alloy aluminum, it looks sharp and takes less than 15 minutes to install, with no front truck removal and no drilling out of your frame.
 
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Been working closely with elka and a few other people to build and design a bracket that does not have to require to remove your front trunk and drill your frame out, and will add strength and be a very simple install. We finally got it done and currently have them equipped on 2 Spyders being rode and approved by spyderlovers members now. It's taken a while since my original idea to relocation the front shocks but we finally have it. Made of 6061 alloy aluminum, it looks sharp and takes less than 15 minutes to install, with no front truck removal and no drilling out of your frame.
... sounds great - when will it be available ??
 
. We finally got it done and currently have them equipped on 2 Spyders being rode and approved by spyderlovers members now. It's taken a while since my original idea to relocation the front shocks but we finally have it. Made of 6061 alloy aluminum, it looks sharp and takes less than 15 minutes to install, with no front truck removal and no drilling out of your frame.

:bowdown:
:bowdown::bowdown:
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown: :2thumbs: Now you've got my impatience running in overdrive... :roflblack: :bbq::bbq::bbq:
 
Been working closely with elka and a few other people to build and design a bracket that does not have to require to remove your front trunk and drill your frame out, and will add strength and be a very simple install. We finally got it done and currently have them equipped on 2 Spyders being rode and approved by spyderlovers members now. It's taken a while since my original idea to relocation the front shocks but we finally have it. Made of 6061 alloy aluminum, it looks sharp and takes less than 15 minutes to install, with no front truck removal and no drilling out of your frame.

:yes: No Drilling AND No Trunk Removal-- You certainly know what makes people Happy!!!!nojoke:yes::yes:
 
Another option guys is to reposition the shocks at the bottom, moving them inward to change the angle. We ran like that for a little while but personally I thought the handling was a bit better keeping the bottoms outboard closer to the wheel. The differences are subtle, but noticeable and totally personal preference....;)
Your not moving them very much...
 
Geometry isn't one of my strongest games... :opps:
Moving the shock mount inboard and away from the wheel might have a much different effect on how the suspension feels because you're now creating basically a "see-saw"... depending on how much distance there is between the new pivot point and the wheel hub will affect how much it affects the spring during inputs... (I think that it'd increase the force imparted to the spring...)
This would make the bike more sensitive to the spring rate and preload settings.
 
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