The Krikit...what should it read?

[BajaRon]

Went out for a spin today to take advantage of what could be the last nice week....got home and decided to check the belt tension with the new KrikitII I got from Ron. Might be a silly question, but I'm gonna ask it. Can I measure tension on the underside of the belt, or is it necessary to remove tupperware and other stuff to check it on the top side? Seems when it's just sitting there, it shouldn't matter. I can easily access the underside of the belt at the footpeg, so that's where I checked it. Got a reading of 240lbs with wheel on the ground. That seems pretty high to me, but the bike rides nice and smooth without any vibrations. I'd sure hate to wreck any bearings being too tight. Should I back it down to 180?

Rick

The reading must be taken on the top, flat side of the belt. As close to the middle of the span between the sprockets and in the middle of the belt. A tighter tension will usually reduce vibration but you don't want to trade a smooth belt for destroyed bearings.

 

[spydermanstever]

Went out for a spin today to take advantage of what could be the last nice week....got home and decided to check the belt tension with the new KrikitII I got from Ron. Might be a silly question, but I'm gonna ask it. Can I measure tension on the underside of the belt, or is it necessary to remove tupperware and other stuff to check it on the top side? Seems when it's just sitting there, it shouldn't matter. I can easily access the underside of the belt at the footpeg, so that's where I checked it. Got a reading of 240lbs with wheel on the ground. That seems pretty high to me, but the bike rides nice and smooth without any vibrations. I'd sure hate to wreck any bearings being too tight. Should I back it down to 180?

Rick

Hi Rick. I always measure mine from the underside of the belt to get the readings. As for the setting, at 240 lbs you are at 1075 Newtons by the conversion so you are probably at the old settings that have been updated. Whether you leave it like that or change it to the revised settings of the June 2015 BRP TST Bulletin is your call. Why not ask your dealer for his opinion and see what he says? The opinions on this subject vary between using the old (previous to June 2015 TST Bulletin) settings or the new settings as per the June 2015 TST Bulletin. It is almost like asking about tires - lol!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I just now came across this discussion. My take? If 1050 N is OK, and if 650 N is OK, then anything in between is OK. So, to my way of looking at it adjust the belt tension between the the two numbers until you are satisfied with the vibration level at whatever your normal ryding speed is.

 

[rwc]

Newton to lbs

Spydermanstever I get 60.69 for the conversion of 270 newton to lbs How do you come up with 47?

 

[spydermanstever]

Spydermanstever I get 60.69 for the conversion of 270 newton to lbs How do you come up with 47?

RWC, you are quite correct, my error, sorry. 270 x 0.2248 (conversion factor) does give you 60.69. Thank you for pointing out the error in calculation. Safe riding!

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

First of all, make sure you get the Krikit II because the scale on that one is suited for the measurements required for the Spyder. The Krikit II will give you measurements in pounds (lb).

UPDATE : BRP put out a TST (Technical Service Tips) bulletin in June 2015 to all dealers that revises the specs for all Spyders for belt tension. I am fortunate to have a good dealer that provided me with a copy of this bulletin as I do my own minor repairs and adjustments on my Spyder. Here is what that TST recommended :

2008-2012 Models GS/RS/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 270 N +/- 100
2013-2015 Models RS/ST/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 630 N +/- 100
2015 Model F3 > Recommended Belt Tension > 300 N +/- 100

Now since your Krikit II measures only in pounds (lbs) and not Newtons (N) like the Gates Sonic Tension Meter that the dealers use, you need to know the conversion, which is :

Newtons (N) x 0.2248 = Pounds (lbs)
Pounds (lbs) x 4.4482 = Newtons (N)

The first conversion above is what you will use for the Krikit. So for example, on your 2010 RT, the recommended belt tension is 270 N x 0.2248 = 47.208 lbs tension ideal, or 170 N x 0.2248 = 38 lbs minimum tension, or 370 N x 0.2248 = 83 lbs maximum tension. You will probably never get it spot on, but as long as you are in the range between min 38 lbs and max 83 lbs, you will be ok. Also, very important, as per the BRP Shop Manual, these readings are to be taken with the back wheel OFF the ground, at room temperature, and measured on the position of the belt in line with the bolt for the passenger floorboard or as close as possible thereto.

My 2015 Spyder RT Limited had an initial spec for belt tension of 1050 N +/- 100. I always felt some vibration at certain speeds/rpms and was starting to learn to accept and live with them. Now with the revised spec that I changed to, the 630 N +/- 100, there is hardly any vibration at all speeds, as I have tested the machine up to 100 mi/hr (briefly & safely of course). You should know that you will never get rid of all vibrations because it is the nature of the machine, with the long drive belt, but if you go with these revised specs put out by BRP, you can reduce the vibrations substantially and see an improvement like I did. I am sure BRP must have listened to all the complaints about belt vibration to warrant putting out this bulletin to all dealers.

Hope this helps. :spyder2:

on the F3, 300 Newtons? That's only 67 lbs. That can't be right.

 

[h0gr1der]

opcorn:

It helps. Was hoping that someone would have set the tension to (X) with the wheel off the ground... then checked it again with the wheel on the ground. Wondering what that second tension would read. Would it still be (X), or would it be different. If it's correct with the wheel off the ground, why would it be wrong with the wheel on the ground, if no other adjustments had been made. Not saying that it would remain (X), but why would it be right, then wrong....:yikes: opcorn:

To add to this I did exactly this on my 2018 RTL in my quest for the least vibration. I found a few truths (for my specific Spyder). The lower you go on tension, the less belt vibration is and the lower speed it will manifest. I am running 110 Lbs with the wheel off the ground, full suspension droop, which comes to 130 Lbs on the ground, and builds to 140 when I drop the Roadster Renovations vibration dampener on the belt. Runs smooth and quiet, I'm very satisfied with the setup. Lower tension should maximize the drive line bearing life, and possibly belt life as long as you don't run it so low the cogs ride up out of the grooves.

Please note these numbers are approximate, the Krikit II has 10 Lb hash marks so it's hard to see individual pounds of tension.

 

[2dogs]

I've noticed that riding two up as apposed to one up the vibration level changes places as far as where it comes in and goes away, according to speed and up hill and down hill and on the flat. Does a person weighing 150 lbs. have to adjust belt tension differently than say a 200 lb. person? If you have self adjusting ride height then one shouldn't have to be concerned, correct, or not? Just like tire psi changing itself when the tires heat up; if your cold belt is say set at 180 lbs. will it be too lose or to tight after it warms up to operating temps? Also when one adjusts the belt tension should you check top side with the parking brake on/off. Should it also be adjusted in gear or in neutral with the wheel off the ground?

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

Here is the conversion chart that I send out with the Krikit belt tension gauge. I have found this to be very accurate.

If you would like a copy of this chart. Email me at [email protected] and I will email you a copy.

It is true that taking tension with the wheel on the ground is not as accurate as lifting the Spyder and letting the rear wheel hang on the suspension. But in practice, it is more than accurate enough. My recommendation is to set tension between the middle spec and the high spec.

Gates Krikit II Conversion Table - Can-Am Spyder Drive Belt Tension (As of 06/15 BRP Specs.)
Tension Conversion from BRP Newton's to Pound Force
Gates Krikit II gauge must be in the middle of the belt (Left/Right) and equal distance from the Front Pulley and Rear Pulley (centered length wise). The Krikit II must be placed on top of the upper belt.
Use Steady, Even Pressure as you press STRAIGHT DOWN on the Krikit II Gauge. Release pressure as soon as the Krikit II Clicks. Reset Krickit II Gauge before each reading.
Repeat process until you get the same reading 3 times in a row.
Done properly the Krikit II is very accurate and more than accurate enough for this drive belt.



[TABLE="width: 619"]
[TR]
[TD]998cc All Models (2008 - 2012)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]300n[/TD]
[TD]450n[/TD]
[TD]600n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]67 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]101 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]135 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel on the Ground - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]130 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]160 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]190 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[TABLE="width: 619"]
[TR]
[TD]998cc All Models (2013-2015)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]900n[/TD]
[TD]1050n[/TD]
[TD]1200n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]202 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]236 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]270 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[TABLE="width: 619"]
[TR]
[TD]1330cc All Models (2014-2015)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]900n[/TD]
[TD]1050n[/TD]
[TD]1200n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]202 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]236 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]270 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE][/QU

The setting for the F3 seems to work best on my 2017 F3-S. (200lbs., wheel off the ground)