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Temp and fuel gauge inop & no dash lights - any ideas?

Bumble_B

Member
Anyone been down this path before? Both analog gauges stopped working at the same time while riding. Also lost the dash lights in the instrument cluster. Both of the fuses for the cluster and the gauges were not blown. Replaced them any way with no luck. Hoping to avoid dealer visit during the holiday's week. I do have an extended BRP warranty on my 2014 RTS.
 
Anyone been down this path before? Both analog gauges stopped working at the same time while riding. Also lost the dash lights in the instrument cluster. Both of the fuses for the cluster and the gauges were not blown. Replaced them any way with no luck. Hoping to avoid dealer visit during the holiday's week. I do have an extended BRP warranty on my 2014 RTS.



DISCONNECT THEM SO THE DIGITAL GAUGES COME UP ON THE DISPLAY THE ANALOG GAUGES ARE NOT ACCURATE
 
If both gauges and the dash lights died at the same time my slow brain says that points to a loose connection, a short to ground or a loose ground connection. I've never bothered to disconnect my analog gauges to see how much more accurate the digital bars are but that's because I have a pretty good estimate of how many miles I have left when the low fuel light comes on. Checking ground connections would be my first effort, but I'd have to dive into the wiring diagrams to determine where to begin.
 
Would start with what add ons you have if any. Like led lights, power outlets etc that may have caused the fuses to blow. The fact that the two fuses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem. It would also seem to be more in the instrument panel area. What work has been done lately? You may have to backtrack if any changes were made. :dontknow:
 
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.... The fact that the two fuses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem....

He said they were NOT blown.

Checking for voltage at the fuses might be a good place to start tracing though.

A meter will be required.
And a wiring diagram probably.
 
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Would start with what add ons you have if any. Like led lights, power outlets etc that may have caused the fuses to blow. The fact that the two fuses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem. It would also seem to be more in the instrument panel area. What work has been done lately? You may have to backtrack if any changes were made. :dontknow:

No changes at all. Fuses were not blown.
 
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He said they were NOT blown.

Checking for voltage at the fuses might be a good place to start tracing though.

A meter will be required.
And a wiring diagram probably.

Pretty sure the bike would be better off with me not rippin and tearin without the proper tools or diagrams:sour:
 
Pretty sure the bike would be better off with me not rippin and tearin without the proper tools or diagrams:sour:

Well there you go, the decision has been mad, take it to the dealer and let them trouble shoot it under warranty.

Merry Christmas to all


Al
 
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Another card for the let the dealer figure it out--under warranty.

Disconnecting the analog gauges to let the digitals operate was a common thing in the pre-2014 RT models. The gas gauges were "wonky" and moved all over the place--making them very inaccurate. The heat gauge was always ok for me.

I ended up doing it on my 2010 RT and the 2011 RT. Have not needed to do that on the 2014 which for me, has a rock solid gas gauge. I still keep track of miles on the tank by setting a trip meter to zero at each and every fill. :yes::yes:
 
The dealer cannot work me in to his schedule until the second week of January. Can someone tell me exactly how to unplug the two analog gauges so I get a readout for the 350 mile end of year ride this Saturday?:sour:
 
The dealer cannot work me in to his schedule until the second week of January.

It appears that there are about 7 dealers not too far from you.
Surely one of them should be able to tell you how to disconnect the gauges........and maybe even do it for you.......if they understand what it takes to make new customers.
 
Good news. Dealer service mgr. called back to let me know he will try to get me in tomorrow. Unfortunately, I told him we cannot have the bike tied up waiting for a part? He walked me through the very easy steps to unplug the gauges and I am good for now.:D
 
Good news and thanks for letting us know how this issue is going. We seldom get the steps and many time never hear if they fixed it or not. :bowdown:
 
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One more question. The coolant bar graph is functioning. It reads in a yellow color. The fuel bar graph registers in what color? I saw a blue graph in an old you tube video. I know my fuel is low, 175miles on tank, but all I see is a light gray shade. What should I see on a 2014 when I fill up??
 
One more question. The coolant bar graph is functioning. It reads in a yellow color. The fuel bar graph registers in what color? I saw a blue graph in an old you tube video. I know my fuel is low, 175miles on tank, but all I see is a light gray shade. What should I see on a 2014 when I fill up??

When you re-fill the tank, it should show in blue on the bar graph. :thumbup:
 
OK. Thanks. Hope it works. Just realized there is no low fuel light on either.

On your 2014, the low fuel light should kick in at about 200 miles--if--you filled the tank to the brim last go around. It is sounding like you have some electronic issues though.

I would get a full tank as quick as possible and see how it goes from there. Zero a trip meter so you know how many miles on the current tank.

Let us know how its going. :yes:
 
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