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Switched power on 2018?

MONK

New member
I'm planning on hooking up a 12V power outlet this weekend (in the glovebox) for an XM receiver. I'd like it to be on switched power so I don't run down the battery. The power outlet only has positive and negative wires ending in ring connectors. Any suggestions other than pulling the XM plug @ the outlet every time I park the bike?
 
On my 2018 RT, I used the gps2 connector on the right side, behind the gas tank to provide power for USB connectors. I can't say whether it would provide sufficient power for your XM receiver though. There are several threads regarding this connector.

Hope this helps.
 
I'm planning on hooking up a 12V power outlet this weekend (in the glovebox) for an XM receiver. I'd like it to be on switched power so I don't run down the battery. The power outlet only has positive and negative wires ending in ring connectors. Any suggestions other than pulling the XM plug @ the outlet every time I park the bike?

You can check my albums to see what I did …. note : even the smallest 12v plug I've found is HUGH, it will take up a lot of room … I have the XM receiver in my glove box and the 12v power plug into the 12v receptacle I have instead of any gauges ….. just a thought …. Mike :ohyea:
 
You can check my albums to see what I did …. note : even the smallest 12v plug I've found is HUGH, it will take up a lot of room … I have the XM receiver in my glove box and the 12v power plug into the 12v receptacle I have instead of any gauges ….. just a thought …. Mike :ohyea:

I use Hella BMW type receptacles and plug-ins, they're smaller and tight. Do the newer models have the same fuse blocks in the frunk?
 
On my 2018 RT, I used the gps2 connector on the right side, behind the gas tank to provide power for USB connectors. I can't say whether it would provide sufficient power for your XM receiver though. There are several threads regarding this connector.

Hope this helps.

When I was installing my GPS the fuse got toasted when I was doing my power checks. Seems like the accessory fuse in the frunk is a small 5 amp, so that is all you can provide for all the accessories hooked to that circuit.
 
The only accessory I currently have (or will have) is the XM. Good to know I shouldn't hook anything else up to it. It was suggested I cut the plug off the XM power cord and use that but, good grief, the cord is tiny! I'll attach a pic of it if I can figure it out. I'm not sure if there's enough wire to connect to anything. The wires have to be thinner than spaghetti. I'm also not sure what happens if I cut that filter off.
 

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There's a number of places you can pick up switched power in the vicinity of the glove box - by glove box I presume you are referring to the storage area at the front of the seat. There is power at the rear of the switch panel Infront of the glove box, there is power at the rear of the fuel and temp guages and there is power from the always on lighting circuit.
 
The only accessory I currently have (or will have) is the XM. Good to know I shouldn't hook anything else up to it. It was suggested I cut the plug off the XM power cord and use that but, good grief, the cord is tiny! I'll attach a pic of it if I can figure it out. I'm not sure if there's enough wire to connect to anything. The wires have to be thinner than spaghetti. I'm also not sure what happens if I cut that filter off.

What do you guys think? Do you think the wires are big enough to cut off and connect or should I try to mount the 12V socket and just plug it in?
 
I needed more power, I added a power block in the frunk. I have it so it is on with the ignition, but you can switch a fuse to have it hot all the time, and it bypasses the nanny Here is a how to link: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?116532-Fused-electrical-distribution-block

I have a coax 12v coax connector under the rear handhold, a dual usb rocker switch insert and a cigarette lighter style power port on a Spyder Cuff on the left side. in the pics you can see the cig outlet behind a RAM ball and the rocker style dual USB on the panel. The other pic is the coax 12v outlet for heated gear with the cover being held up. I also have a coax outlet under the seat loose that I pull out when I need to plug in the heated gear.
 

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BLUEKNIGHT911 alluded to the large size of the plug and outlet usually provided for motorcycle use. For a smaller 12v DC outlet and plug, you can use coax units like most of the heated gear uses. They are small, robust and less prone to failure than the cigarette lighter style. The biggest drawback is they are not used on much more than heated gear, so you'd have to do your own wiring, and whatever you plug into it would have to be straight 12v DC - a lot of electronics that have a cigarette plug have circuitry that stpes down the voltage, as does USB outlets and the cig plug in adapters for phones. If you're good with electronics you could add the circuitry upstream of the outlet, but that ain't me. Shown below are a panel mount coax jack, and cables with a coax jack and plug.
 

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What do you guys think? Do you think the wires are big enough to cut off and connect or should I try to mount the 12V socket and just plug it in?
Your call, we don't know your expertise. Me? I'd cut it.

Does the antenna need a clear view or can it be hidden? If you pop out the speaker grill there is a reasonable space under the plastic where a smallish antenna could fit. If you picked up power from above at the rear of the dash guage or from the back of the switches you could fit it and forget it.

Power in the cubby... I've got USB power in the wee cubby by wiring a couple of tails directly into a cigarette lighter type USB adapter. There is space on the left side of the cubby to drill a hole that the adapter can push through so only its top protrudes into the cubby. You need to remove the left side panel to identify the position, from under the panel you will see a small, square recess along the edge of the cubby. I drilled centrally in the recess for the hole and the adapter pushes through from within the cubby.
 
UPDATE: The "vehicle kit" I got wasn't meant to be hardwired. I ordered the hardwired kit which should be here Sunday. This should make things pretty easy.
 
My suggestion to anyone wanting to run accessory power is to set up a separate power distribution module or fuse block. Modern bikes can be somewhat finicky when you start robbing power form a dedicated circuit. I typically use Rowe Electronics Amplink PDMs. It has 6 programmable circuits that are digital circuit breakers and the unit will handle 60 amps. This means that you connect directly to the battery once and then you have 6 additional circuits that you can decide how much power to apply to. The circuits are programmed via bluetooth on your smart phone. Another good thing is that you don't have to worry about blown fuses. If something happens to trip a circuit you simply turn off the key, correct the problem, and the circuit breaker is reset when the key is turned back on. Here is a pic of the one I installed funder the seat on my wife's '18 RTL
 

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