• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Survey : who has had the newest (recall) front sprocket fail?

I am getting it done on 2015 F3 Thursday at 25,000 miles and do to lowering my tension to 145 Cricket 3 years ago I am still OK but told my dealer I will pick it up the day after so it cures at least 20-24 hours. They indicated they were letting them go the same day they are in stalled BUT I told them I didn't wait 3 years to not do it right.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I remember when I changed the tire that I just raised the swing arm and the belt peeled off pretty easy so they shouldn't have to mess with any tension changes?
 
I am getting it done on 2015 F3 Thursday at 25,000 miles and do to lowering my tension to 145 Cricket 3 years ago I am still OK but told my dealer I will pick it up the day after so it cures at least 20-24 hours. They indicated they were letting them go the same day they are in stalled BUT I told them I didn't wait 3 years to not do it right.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I remember when I changed the tire that I just raised the swing arm and the belt peeled off pretty easy so they shouldn't have to mess with any tension changes?

Sarge, you might be out of luck there. The BRP recall instructions tell the wrench to remove belt tension as per “belt adjustment” in the BRP manual, and after install, to set belt alignment and belt tension as per the “belt adjustment” section in the BRP manual. A couple of other riders have said they asked their dealer to set the tension to 140, but they refused, as the Spyder has to leave the dealer set to the mandated, much higher, tension shown in the manual.:spyder:

Pete
 
When I Took my wife '19 F3L in for the last an finale sprocket fix. I ask them if it needs to sit over night for loctite to cure. Nope they said. Takes about an hour to change sprocket an your ready to go. No need to let it sit an cure.
 
If one reads the data for Loctite 648, the cure is dependent on material (in this case steel), gap between fitted parts, and temperature. 50% cure strength is achieved in 1 hour @ 22C (72F) with a gap of 0.05mm (0.002"), with 90% strength @ 24 hours. [https://docs.rs-online.com/5d25/0900766b800b9992.pdf]. If the shaft was worn, creating a larger gap (0.25mm/0.010"), the material will only achieve 65-70% of design strength.

Of the 3 F3 models we had done at our local dealer, all came back with the lower range belt tension and 2 of the 3 had the belt properly aligned. One failed at ~20K miles, which I replaced. One had over 35K miles with no issues. The third only had 4K miles at the time of the recall completion. We don't have enough data on longevity of the fix, with only about 5K miles on the fix.
 
I posted this question for ALL the folks who need to get theirs replaced because of RED DUST etc. .... I don't / won't have this issue because my 2014 ( early RT ) doesn't have the problem ( # 77,000 mi. no red dust )
Funny that you should mention that. I had the recall done on mine, but had a conversation with the repair shop during the process. Although they have done some repairs because of the red dust, most of their repairs and failures in their shop were from the older RSS and RT models with the V-twin. He tends to think that it is the luck of the draw as to whether there is a failure or not. Mainly caused by incorrect assembly in the manufacturing process.
 
Funny that you should mention that. I had the recall done on mine, but had a conversation with the repair shop during the process. Although they have done some repairs because of the red dust, most of their repairs and failures in their shop were from the older RSS and RT models with the V-twin. He tends to think that it is the luck of the draw as to whether there is a failure or not. Mainly caused by incorrect assembly in the manufacturing process.

Interesting ...... You've been here almost as long as I, but I don't recall the " V-Twin " Spyder's as having SPROCKET issues. ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
If one reads the data for Loctite 648, the cure is dependent on material (in this case steel), gap between fitted parts, and temperature. 50% cure strength is achieved in 1 hour @ 22C (72F) with a gap of 0.05mm (0.002"), with 90% strength @ 24 hours. [https://docs.rs-online.com/5d25/0900766b800b9992.pdf]. If the shaft was worn, creating a larger gap (0.25mm/0.010"), the material will only achieve 65-70% of design strength.

Loctite 609 is what is stated to use.
 
askitee

Quote Originally Posted by T.P. View Post
HEY ASKITEE, I think you could clear this up in your mind and ours by posting all of the part numbers off of your dealers paperwork.
Your making claims for sprocket repair 4 times is unheard of and confusing.

I have posted the correct sprocket numbers in an above post and below for the sprocket recall.

COPY OF RECALL SERVICE BULLETIN, https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/202...2V352-1338.pdf

T.P.
I don't have the paperwork. I know the 2nd last sprocket replaced was the recall version, the one prior was the white one, and was told by the dealer the sprocket was done again this visit.

While ASKITEE posted this about his sprocket recall work, He has no paperwork from his dealer to prove what was done.
T.P.

The question was asked on the forum and I replied, and there is no confusion in my mind. Once I've had a chance to read the paperwork I don't keep it.

  • The original was replaced with the White Painted Sprocket
  • The next was the recall, the then service manager indicated he'd get it done while in for the service (cant recall if it was 60K or 75K).
  • The last was while it was in for some insurance work + Wheel alignment a month or so ago (84k Kms). The Wheel alignment didn't get done because they had to redo the sprocket.
Additionally I have just received another recall letter from BRP. I might email the workshop and see if they can offer come details.
 
Interesting ...... You've been here almost as long as I, but I don't recall the " V-Twin " Spyder's as having SPROCKET issues. ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
I mentioned that to them also. Saying that I thought it was a sprocket on the 1330's issue. But he assured me that he had done more repairs on the older models. But this was also when I was having the repairs done on my 2016 F3T, which is when they were using the white sprocket. I know that another has come out since then, and is the one that they used on my 2016 F3L. Not making it up, just sharing the information that was provided to me.
 
It was May last year that you replied to and acknowledged those earlier threads. :coffee:

Thanks for this also .... I APOLOGIZE for any and all errors I make due to age related memory loss :bowdown: .... One of the wonderful things that a few members here do is monitor posts and threads by other members and correct any errors they find ....... again Thank you for your diligence :clap::clap::clap:..... Mike :thumbup:
 
I was planning on getting the recall done while it is in there for a Spark plug change. But I have the white sprocket that I had put on 2 years ago. And the white sprocket has no red dust. Maybe I need to not get the sprocket replaced.
 
I was planning on getting the recall done while it is in there for a Spark plug change. But I have the white sprocket that I had put on 2 years ago. And the white sprocket has no red dust. Maybe I need to not get the sprocket replaced.

Did you get a recall notice, acdc? If not, then there is definitely no need. But if you did, you really should take it in for the mandatory recall, otherwise you may find it declared “not roadworthy” at some point.

Pete
 
Did you get a recall notice, acdc? If not, then there is definitely no need. But if you did, you really should take it in for the mandatory recall, otherwise you may find it declared “not roadworthy” at some point.

Pete

I did get the recall notice. But since that time, I just check it once a month and no red dust at all. Nice and clean. That was why maybe I shouldn't let them screw it up possibly when I have a perfectly good working sprocket as it is. :-)
 
I did get the recall notice. But since that time, I just check it once a month and no red dust at all. Nice and clean. That was why maybe I shouldn't let them screw it up possibly when I have a perfectly good working sprocket as it is. :-)

Yeah, I completely understand that very understandable logic, acdc. But not having a mandatory safety recall done may bite you on the bum a little later on.;)

Pete
 
So is the correct Loctite 609 or the 648? Does it come with the recall sprocket ? Can we conform for all to read ... and the correct cure time is 24 hours to achieve the correct bond?

Lastly, should we be insisting that the dealer/ installer leave it set over night as per the BRP instructions, not just the vague NHTSA recall one?

OT but it seems to me that we should also be insisting that pics of the removal and install including bolt and spacer be taken to ensure they actually do it correctly...

What do you guys think?
 
Also,is responsibility of tech to check the expiration date of the Loctite before use. Things like that and cure times is not on job plans or bulletins cause is common sense of a real tech to read instructions of the chemical products they work on.
 
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