Stripped out handlebar bolt :(

[PMK]

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.

FWIW, there are some of us here well versed, actually extremely experienced in working on stuff like this. If I had a nickel for every screw I have drilled out on an aircraft, and most stripped by other techs, I would have a lot of nickels.

Bummer it happened, but it can be correctly repaired.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.

I just looked at the handlebar casting from my 2014 RT. I replaced it with the Tri-Axis bar. There is almost 3/4" of thickness between the bolt head and the plate the handlebar mounts to. There is no need take anything more apart than the handlebar off the plate. Tell the dealer to drill the head off as he suggests. Then when the handlebar is off there is plenty of length of bolt sticking up to get a good grip with a pair of vise grips on it to screw it out just like PMK says. He should be able to do all this easily within one hour. That should be more like a $100, not $500. If he resists tell him to call one of us.

If you have a good machine shop close by go there and talk to them. They can do it just as well or better than the dealer. If you need a picture of what the handlebar looks like to see how much bolt sticks up above the plate, let me know. I can get you a couple easy.

 

[RICZ]

Yup....I'd do exactly what IdahoMtnSpyder suggests. Easy peasy and all you need is a drill bit slightly larger than the bolt head and a ViseGrip.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Drill off the head of that bolt, remove the rest of that cap. Use the torch to heat the 'stud' that's sticking up, that should break down the locktite. This will also cause the stud to expand and once it's cool, it will contract very slightly from the walls of the threads making removal much easier.

 

[MONK]

I'm a little confused. (Well, a LOT confused.) If I remove all (4) bolts (whether by drilling the heads off of them or removing them the "right" way), I can remove the handlebars? If I drill the head off the jacked up bolt and remove the others the right way will there be enough clearance to get a pair of vise grips on the remaining POS bolt or will I need to disassemble other things? Honestly, my concern is that 1) I really don't know what I'm doing, 2) that I don't have the right tools, 3) I don't have a garage/carport so if I have to stop in the middle of the job (storm rolls in, I'm missing a critical tool, I get stumped), I can't just stop and 4) I don't have an confidence. (it is what it is. I've jacked up more projects than I've successfully completed. Ask me about my Kawasaki Nomaglide sometime. )

If all of the above is true, what bolt(s) do I need to replace what I have? Technically, I still have the (2) bolts that came with the Lamonster phone mount plate (which is where all this started) and could mount that but I'd like to have (4) of the correct bolts on hand, just in case. (I went a different direction with the phone mount.)

I don't supposed there's anyone in my area who knows what they're doing and has the correct tools who'd like to come over for a Saturday and at least advise. I don't mind doing the work.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

MONK, I just reviewed the process of changing the handlebar to the Tri-Axis. You are looking at a more complicated procedure than I was thinking and what I remembered. To get a good idea of getting the handlebar loose look at the first several steps of this instruction. https://instructions.brp.com/conten...Handlebar&rel_part_number=219400344,219400414. The first thing they say to do is remove the entire front module with the dash and headlights. Now that I think back on it will be a few hours of labor. Your dealer's estimate of $500 may not be to far out of line after all.

At this point your best next step to check out is to go to a machine or muffler shop and ask about welding a bolt to the buggered up bolt head and use that to turn it loose. That will be a LOT cheaper than drilling and using vise grips. Your other affordable choice is to get a different mount and some plastic caps to cover the bolt heads so the buggered up one isn't visible.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

And to think that this was going to be my next mod.

Sounds like something that's too much trouble to me. Think I'm going to do the driver's backrest next.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll eventually get that bolt out, MONK. These things may take a few tries. Have patience, take a break, don't get too flustered. If you feel that you're at the end of your rope (or talent or ability), perhaps it's time to swallow your pride and ask for professional help. They say that "time is money", and that it'll be worth paying someone to do it instead of spending hours filled with aggravation and stress.

Good luck, and let us know how it went....

 

[merlot]

its likely a $20 fix at the muffler shop Monk.....cover everything to avoid tears from splatter,espec the cluster

russ

 

[bikerbillone]

My apologies Monk. I know you have enough aggravation.

 

[carbonation]

And to think that this was going to be my next mod.

Sounds like something that's too much trouble to me. Think I'm going to do the driver's backrest next.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll eventually get that bolt out, MONK. These things may take a few tries. Have patience, take a break, don't get too flustered. If you feel that you're at the end of your rope (or talent or ability), perhaps it's time to swallow your pride and ask for professional help. They say that "time is money", and that it'll be worth paying someone to do it instead of spending hours filled with aggravation and stress.

Good luck, and let us know how it went....

It went bad for him, unfortunately. Most of us don't have the trouble he had.

Took about 20 minutes, start to finish. No snark intended here. I feel for him. But I know that bolt is NOT impossible to get out, he just hasn't found the key for the lock yet.

 

[FastOldGuy]

I'm a little confused. (Well, a LOT confused.) If I remove all (4) bolts (whether by drilling the heads off of them or removing them the "right" way), I can remove the handlebars? If I drill the head off the jacked up bolt and remove the others the right way will there be enough clearance to get a pair of vise grips on the remaining POS bolt or will I need to disassemble other things? Honestly, my concern is that 1) I really don't know what I'm doing, 2) that I don't have the right tools, 3) I don't have a garage/carport so if I have to stop in the middle of the job (storm rolls in, I'm missing a critical tool, I get stumped), I can't just stop and 4) I don't have an confidence. (it is what it is. I've jacked up more projects than I've successfully completed. Ask me about my Kawasaki Nomaglide sometime. )

If all of the above is true, what bolt(s) do I need to replace what I have? Technically, I still have the (2) bolts that came with the Lamonster phone mount plate (which is where all this started) and could mount that but I'd like to have (4) of the correct bolts on hand, just in case. (I went a different direction with the phone mount.)

I don't supposed there's anyone in my area who knows what they're doing and has the correct tools who'd like to come over for a Saturday and at least advise. I don't mind doing the work.

I just pulled one of my Bolts out to mount a magnetic phone mount. As you know at this point, it's a 7mm allen. Like you said, I'd Drill the Head off the Stripped one (and remove the other 3). Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out. Heat it up a little first to break the LocTite. Or after the bars are out of the way get someone with a Tig Welder to weld a Nut to the remaining Bolt and back it out. Don't over think this, it's not huge, make a good plan and Attack It. If I was Closer, I'd gladly come help or Drive it to the Beach and I'll help you get it out. (Yes, I have Taps and a Tig Welder.)

 

[FastOldGuy]

its likely a $20 fix at the muffler shop Monk.....cover everything to avoid tears from splatter,espec the cluster

russ

Hang on a minute! The Original Bolt is Stainless Steel. You Can Not MIG a SS Bolt. Secondly, the Mig is going to Pop Slag everywhere and damage stuff. A TIG welder for Stainless Steel will Work "IF" you decide to Weld It.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out.

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. Take a look at the instruction sheet I link to above. The big hangup is the plastic trim under the handlebar. It hides the big gap between the steering column and the dash. It's kind of like a hat with a brim that extends below the mounting plate. In order to get that piece out you have to have to remove the dash. It is fastened with screws and you have to reach up under and inside the hat to get to them. You can't get up under there with the dash in place which is why the console module has to come off.

Hang on a minute! The Original Bolt is Stainless Steel. You Can Not MIG a SS Bolt. Secondly, the Mig is going to Pop Slag everywhere and damage stuff. A TIG welder for Stainless Steel will Work "IF" you decide to Weld It.

As for welding an experienced welder will know what precautions to take to avoid spatter damage. As for the welder it's just easier to refer to it as a wire feed welder! The bolt is probably not the stainless steel you're thinking about. They are magnetic so I'm guessing they are just stainless enough to minimize rusting, like car exhaust components, but steel enough to be easily welded. That's why I keep suggesting going to a muffler shop. Those guys are welding on that type of steel all the time.

 

[MONK]

Assuming I let the dealer tech resolve this (if it ends up being covered under warranty, which I doubt), is there any more work involved in replacing the stock handlebars with the Tri Axis bars? Just trying to think outside the box, I guess.

 

[AeroPilot]

Monk, if your original intent was to use the center mount phone mount you purchased and now have another phone mount and the rest of the original 4 bolts are still intact, my choice would be just to live with the one wallowed out bolt. I may not have the whole story, but if every thing else is good - just ride it.

I probably have cosmetic issues with every mechanical device I own, but if they operate as intended, I can live with it... Your choice.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Assuming I let the dealer tech resolve this (if it ends up being covered under warranty, which I doubt), is there any more work involved in replacing the stock handlebars with the Tri Axis bars? Just trying to think outside the box, I guess.

Once he's got the handlebar loose there is a little bit more to do the switch. He'll have to change the grips from one to the other and also the ignition module. To just do the repair he may not need to do those if he can get the handlebar out of the way with the wires and cables attached. If you buy the Tri-Axis from him, installed, he shouldn't charge very much extra, if any, to get the buggered up bolt out. There is a little bit more to mounting the Tri-Axis than the stock, but not much.

The Tri-Axis handlebar is pricey, but if the stock handlebar just doesn't fit your body and sitting position quite right, and if you plan on taking long trips, it definitely would be worth considering going that route. I like mine, with one exception. When you pull the grips back toward you the left and right bars pivot at the center. That means the angle of the grips becomes more acute with respect to the centerline of the bike, and so you turn your wrists outward more to grip. I also found that once I found a comfortable position for the bar I almost never change it again. On long trips I'll change it just to give my arms and wrists a rest from being stuck in one position. The Tri-Axis is the only option for the pre-2020 RT for adjustability. All things considered it is a great option.

Yeah, considering your situation I say give it some serious consideration. The cost difference between the fix that leaves you with the stock configuration and the T-A option makes the T-A look very much worth it!

 

[MONK]

Just realized the Tri Axis bars are $700. I don't need them that badly.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Monk, take it to the dealer. There's so much misinformation in this thread you'll likely make it worse if you follow it.

Even with all the bolts out you can't just remove the bars.
Given the amount of force you've applied, there's no way a vise grip pliers is going to remove that stud, you need a stud extractor.
Stainless steel can be Mig or Tig welded.
Attempting to weld a bolt on will almost certainly damage the bars because the bolt head is fairly recessed and access is limited.
Welding a nut on is possible but difficult because welding current will preferentially jump to the nut threads rather than down the hole to the bolt head and the nut will fill with weld with little fusion to the bolt head.
The bars are aluminium and just powder coated so very easily damaged.

Take it to the dealer! If you're fancying the Triaxis they should only charge you a little for drilling off the bolt head. Any decent mechanics workshop will have a stud extractor. The bolt heads are particularly shallow in the first place and that is part of the initial problem.

Take it to the dealer!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Just realized the Tri Axis bars are $700. I don't need them that badly.

Perfectly understandable! :thumbup: I was fortunate when I got mine and got a good deal on eBay from a warehouse salvage operator.

 

[PMK]

I just pulled one of my Bolts out to mount a magnetic phone mount. As you know at this point, it's a 7mm allen. Like you said, I'd Drill the Head off the Stripped one (and remove the other 3). Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out. Heat it up a little first to break the LocTite. Or after the bars are out of the way get someone with a Tig Welder to weld a Nut to the remaining Bolt and back it out. Don't over think this, it's not huge, make a good plan and Attack It. If I was Closer, I'd gladly come help or Drive it to the Beach and I'll help you get it out. (Yes, I have Taps and a Tig Welder.)

Similar to how I would first approach this. After drilling the head off, raise the bars slightly. With the tension relieved by removing the bolt head this should ease the turning effort needed to get the remains turning.

Is there enough working room to fit Vice Grips into the gap if the bars are raised, that is the big question.