Stripped oil drain bolt head

[yfx4]

2010 RT SE5. I took the side panels off and the splash pan off to change the oil and filters. It is a 1 year change, not yet 3k miles. Had the 600 mile service done at the dealer.

Drained the oil tank fine. When I went to loosen the engine drain plug the wrench just spun. The friggin dealer stripped the head of the bolt. :cus:

I put the oil back in rather than ruin new filters and waste the new oil on a partial change.

Any ideas on how to get that stinking plug out??

Other than the dealer, are there any sources for a new drain plug??

 

[Big Arm]

Best way to remove the old plug, is to use an easy-out.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?27881-Oil-drain-plugs&highlight=drain+plugs

 

[flybuddy]

Magnetic replacements

http://magneticdrainplug.com/motorcycle.html

 

[yfx4]

Cool. Looked online for easy out kits. Sears has a short one that should be less.likely to break. I'll get a kit and order a HEX drain plug. Thanks for the links!!!

 

[MarkLawson]

The metal of the plug is pretty soft & a number of us have had the same problem. I stripped mine myself. Hex head replacement is the way to go.

Oh, and leave that bottom panel off. You really don't need it and makes oil changes much easier.

 

[yfx4]

Thanks. I left the panel off when I put it back together. I also found that the plastic around the bolt hole holding the black deflector below the oil tank access panel is broken. I will make a bigger washer to hold it on. Not worth buying a whole new panel for.......


Update:
Ordered new drain plugs. I'll get an easy out kit, or borrow one, so I can get this done. PITA oil change.......

Any tips to tease the main filter past the shift linkage???

 

[neelbert]

Thanks. I left the panel off when I put it back together. I also found that the plastic around the bolt hole holding the black deflector below the oil tank access panel is broken. I will make a bigger washer to hold it on. Not worth buying a whole new panel for.......


Update:
Ordered new drain plugs. I'll get an easy out kit, or borrow one, so I can get this done. PITA oil change.......

Any tips to tease the main filter past the shift linkage???

I took a small chisle and hammer to break it loose replaced with new plug going to look in to hex plug

 

[NancysToy]

I have never had this issue, so I can't speak directly to the problem, but I do have some tips that can prevent such damage:

First, use a good hex socket and ratchet to remove the drain plugs. Use two hands, one to keep the socket fully seated, and one to work the ratchet. Pulling on the handle of the ratchet (or an allen wrench)without holding the wrench in the recess in the plug can cause the wrench to pull at an angle and pull out part way, possibly stripping the plug.

Use a torque wrench to reinstall the plug. Overtorqued drain plugs are easily stripped the next time around, as you struggle to break them free.

Inspect the copper washers, and replace them periodically. After a while they harden and become compressed. They can be annealed and reused, but few people bother...including myself. The washer compressed slightly unr torque, making the drain plug harder to remove that it was to install. A hardened or damaged washer can magnify this problem, making removal more difficult.

The oil drain plugs are take hex (allen) wrenches, not torx. A torx may feel like it fits, and may even work, but it has poor contact, and will eventually spin and strip the indentation. Use the right tool for the job!

 

[ameobe]

Yeah, been there done that.

I think the consensus of the forum (based on about 1000 threads on the subject) is the hammer/chisel/punch method of removal is best.

Although my vote for the most creative is the JBWeld & allen wrench method.
good luck.

The JB Weld wasn't something I am proud of but it got me out of a ugly situation fairly easy.:thumbup:

 

[CyncySpyder]

You can add Teddy & I to this Motley list of Frustrated DIY'ers

Had the same problem and have switched to the hex head bolts. As the stock plugs are rater soft metal I was able to get a pair of vice grips to lock onto the shoulder of the bolt and break it loose. Engine is easy compared to the oil tank (my problem) but if you are careful it will come out.

Yeah, been there done that.

I think the consensus of the forum (based on about 1000 threads on the subject) is the hammer/chisel/punch method of removal is best.

Although my vote for the most creative is the JBWeld & allen wrench method.
good luck.

:lecturef_smilie::banghead: But thanks to the Great Info from this Site, we're not much happier with our new Magnetic Plugs, makes lyfe so much easier:bowdown::thumbup::firstplace:

 

[yfx4]

Hammer/cold chisel worked.fine. replaced both drain plugs with GoldPlugs. All is well in our Spyderville. Thank you all.

 

[boborgera]

Hammer/cold chisel worked.fine. replaced both drain plugs with GoldPlugs. All is well in our Spyderville. Thank you all.

:thumbup:
:thumbup: That's the way to go, And now your a official street mechanic.:yes:

I always carried a hammer and chisel in my tool box just for those occasions.pps: