Spyder Down Hard

[ElkSpyder]

Had the front sprocket blow off the bike this morning. :gaah:

Found the bolt that holds it in place and it has sheared off with part of the bolt still inside the drive shaft. Yamaha of Millington has the bike, as I was on my charity ride for St. Jude and 25 miles north of Millington. :gaah::gaah:

Their telling me over two weeks to get the :spyder2: fixed and right now I'm thinking about renting a u-haul and taking her home to Rob's in Johnson Creek to have the work done there.

No SITS for me this year. No BBQ:gaah:.

This has not been a great trip this year. Yesterday had a Harley rider not stop in time and he hit the right rear BRP bag, bending that bracket. Least of it as he dumped his wife onto the roadway and then fish tailed his rear end into the bike that was in front of me. He and she are both having surgury done, have not heard on what or why yet.

 

[ARtraveler]

Ouch! Sorry to hear about the bad luck. Glad you are all right. Keep us posted. opcorn:

 

[Lamonster]

Sorry to hear this. If the shaft and the sprocket are okay you can fix it in two hours or less I would say.

 

[Raptor]

Sorry to hear this. If the shaft and the sprocket are okay you can fix it in two hours or less I would say.

This makes sense as the real issue here is the remaining piece of bolt that is in the shaft. If they can get it out with out damaging the shaft and the sprocket didn't get dinged (and the belt is good) then dress the threads on the shaft, replace the bolt, set the belt tension and you are down the road! I know there are a few "ifs" there but let's hope for the best. Sorry to hear of your troubles man. Sending good energy yoour way. :ani29:

 

[ElkSpyder]

This makes sense as the real issue here is the remaining piece of bolt that is in the shaft. If they can get it out with out damaging the shaft and the sprocket didn't get dinged (and the belt is good) then dress the threads on the shaft, replace the bolt, set the belt tension and you are down the road! I know there are a few "ifs" there but let's hope for the best. Sorry to hear of your troubles man. Sending good energy yoour way. :ani29:

Thanks could use some good energy.
- but right now it looks like pulling the motor out and replacing the shaft. Plus the dealer is thinking warrenty as the bolt, which we found, looks like it just sheared off. So both the front and rear sprockets are dinged up and so is the belt. The dealer here and back home are both talking to BRP.

Plan for tomorrow, put her into the back of a uhaul and haul home to Wisconsin.

Will post updates as time goes on.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Wow, that is a serious bad break for you. I hope your dealer back home is able to get things sorted out much sooner for you, and the repairs go well.

What are you going to have to do about the damage to the bag? Are you sure he didn't damage anything else when he hit you?

 

[Freddy]

Given prior reports of pulleys being chewed out and the odd bolt breaking, I'm inclined to think that the bolt breaks because the pulley came loose because the bolt has not been tight. If this one needs a new shaft, that would seem to indicate that the pulley has been loose for some distance, not just snapped the bolt - which I would think would cause minimal damage to the shaft spline.

 

[Raptor]

Man, that is tough. If it were me I think I would get her on a trailer too and take her back home for the required repairs. This sounds like a warranty job to me for sure. Freddy had a good point there. Makes me want to check my sprocket bolts later this morning!

I wish you all the best and hope you are back on the road soon.

 

[NancysToy]

Given prior reports of pulleys being chewed out and the odd bolt breaking, I'm inclined to think that the bolt breaks because the pulley came loose because the bolt has not been tight. If this one needs a new shaft, that would seem to indicate that the pulley has been loose for some distance, not just snapped the bolt - which I would think would cause minimal damage to the shaft spline.

Could actually go either way...or both. Be sure you have loosened and retorqued the bolt at 6,000 miles, as described in a Service Bulletin. Also make sure the belt is adjusted to the new, lower tension. Those should help prevent this. I'm not so sure there is an absolute cure, though. There have been a lot of blown output shafts and sprockets...with or without broken bolts.

 

[Freddy]

Very interesting observation on what the service manual says, Nancy - hadn't seen that bit. Do you have a page ref? I just bought a new OEM bolt, it comes with yellow threadlocker already on it.

 

[Rockytime]

This has not been a great trip this year. Yesterday had a Harley rider not stop in time and he hit the right rear BRP bag, bending that bracket. Least of it as he dumped his wife onto the roadway and then fish tailed his rear end into the bike that was in front of me. He and she are both having surgury done, have not heard on what or why yet.[/QUOTE]

Bummer, I hope you are OK. Only 1800 miles on my New RT-S and I rear-ended a car. Running gear OK, I'm OK but tore up about $2800 worth of plastic. Full coverage on the trike. I'll be getting it back this Thursday and am having the new DPS installed while at the dealer, RPM in Denver. Great, great dealer.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Bummer, I hope you are OK. Only 1800 miles on my New RT-S and I rear-ended a car. Running gear OK, I'm OK but tore up about $2800 worth of plastic. Full coverage on the trike. I'll be getting it back this Thursday and am having the new DPS installed while at the dealer, RPM in Denver. Great, great dealer.

Sorry to hear about your mishap as well, and glad you are alright. Best of luck with the repairs on your Spyder, and ryde safe when you get it back.

 

[memphisdan]

I am sorry to hear of the problems you are having. I understand wanting to get home an not hang around Millington but Yamaha of Millington is a good dealer. They seem to be very committed to the spyder, and have done a good job of servicing my bike. The limiting factor will be how quickly they can get parts.

Dan

 

[NancysToy]

Very interesting observation on what the service manual says, Nancy - hadn't seen that bit. Do you have a page ref? I just bought a new OEM bolt, it comes with yellow threadlocker already on it.

Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18252&highlight=sprocket+torque

BTW, Nancy is my wife...I am Scotty, aka Nancy's Toy...as was our first Spyder.

 

[Freddy]

Thanks ToyBoy aka Scotty.

Now the question remains as someone there alluded to - does the threadlocker on the factory fitted bolt cause a torquewrench to give and incorrect reading? I think the answer is: maybe.

 

[dave01]

Thanks ToyBoy aka Scotty.

Now the question remains as someone there alluded to - does the threadlocker on the factory fitted bolt cause a torquewrench to give and incorrect reading? I think the answer is: maybe.

Nope, the yellow red or blue threadlocker wont change what the torque wrench reads. I am not a fan of the factory locker and use blue on all metal to metal threaded connections. I have personally seen the red threadlocker fail and the only cure was to drill and safety-wire the bolt. That seemed to do the trick.

 

[dave01]

When I first saw the title of this post, all I could think of was a Spyder and its owner DOWN because of an accident. :yikes::yikes::yikes:

It was good to hear it was a mechanical failure and not a real accident though.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

[Firefly]

Sorry for your troubles. The bolts come with the yellow on them--- BRP's lock coating.

You shouldn't have a problem getting the bolt and sprocket quickly--- but if you do-- lemme know as I have both......

 

[NancysToy]

Nope, the yellow red or blue threadlocker wont change what the torque wrench reads. I am not a fan of the factory locker and use blue on all metal to metal threaded connections. I have personally seen the red threadlocker fail and the only cure was to drill and safety-wire the bolt. That seemed to do the trick.

Dave is right on the money about the torque. In actuality, torque readings are for lubricated fasteners, unless otherwise specified...dry fasteners require increased torque. Threadlockers provide that lubrication, then cure to hold the fastener in place. They usually fail due to dirty or oily threads.

The yellow material on the factory screws is 3-M Scotch-Lock Retaining Compound, as far as I can determine. This works a little differently from most threadlockers. The material can be applied, and allowed to dry, which is how you see it when you buy a bolt. When torqued, tiny micro-capsules of epoxy burst, and cure to hold the fastener tight, requiring about 15 N-m (11 lbf-ft) additional torque to break them loose. Enough microcapsules remain that these fasteners can usually be reused with little loss of holding power...up to a point.

The only sure cure is safety wire, but it is difficult to use on a rotating part.

 

[Freddy]

THANK YOU Scotty, brilliant explantion and clarification.