Spyder Down Hard

[pierrelogic]

Thought I knew what torque was...wrong. At least I learned something new today!

" A properly tightened bolt is one that is stretched such that it acts like a very ridged spring pulling mating surfaces together. The rotation of a bolt (torque) at some point causes it to stretch (tension)."

The basic formula T = K x D x P provides users with a starting point for establishing an initial target tightening torque.

• T Target tighten torque (the result of this formula is in inch pounds, dividing by 12 yields foot pounds
• K Coefficient of friction (nut factor), always an estimation in this formula
• D Bolts nominal diameter in inches
• P Bolt's desired tensile load in pounds (generally 75% of yield strength)

 

[Raptor]

We have a bunch of pretty smart cookies around here!

Scotty, whenever we get a big blade server encosure in the Data Center the mounting hardware always comes with the yellow locker on them. Gosh knows you don't want a 500-plus pound piece of gear falling down on you because a mounting fastener came loose! :yikes:

 

[NancysToy]

I'll add another lesson regarding the sprocket bolt re-torquing...

Be sure to loosen the bolt (or any fastener) before retorquing. The cured Scotch-Lock on the fastener (or any threadlocker on a fastener) will increase the torque needed to move the bolt, and you will falsely think that it is torqued to spec, when it is basically sticking a little bit. Back it off, then retighten to spec. If using an alternate threadlocker, remove it completely, clean, and re-apply the threadlocker before tightening.

 

[Raptor]

I'll add another lesson regarding the sprocket bolt re-torquing...

Be sure to loosen the bolt (or any fastener) before retorquing. The cured Scotch-Lock on the fastener (or any threadlocker on a fastener) will increase the torque needed to move the bolt, and you will falsely think that it is torqued to spec, when it is basically sticking a little bit. Back it off, then retighten to spec. If using an alternate threadlocker, remove it completely, clean, and re-apply the threadlocker before tightening.

Another great point. You know, I had to replace a front fender bracket bolt just the other day because it had vibrated itself OUT, not just loose! It was a M8 x 1.25 x 20mm btw, for those of you with the dress kits.

As a result of all this activity with bolts and things working themselves loose, snapping and such I think it's time I came up with a check list of critical fasteners and other things that should be checked, topped off, re-tightened and/or re-torqued at a regular interval, not just at oil change time. That interval will probably be every 3 weeks for me, but will probably vary for everyone depending on how you ride and so on.

Input is encouraged, of course! I just think that being proactive is the preferred way of thinking. So let's get those brain cells working! This is a smart group; we can do this!

 

[ElkSpyder]

I am sorry to hear of the problems you are having. I understand wanting to get home an not hang around Millington but Yamaha of Millington is a good dealer. They seem to be very committed to the spyder, and have done a good job of servicing my bike. The limiting factor will be how quickly they can get parts.

Dan

No real issue with Yamaha of Millington, or their owner Don. Just what am I going to do - drive home in a rental car, then take that back when the Spyder is done, and then drive the Spyder home? Also if BRP wants to question if this is warrenty work I want to be near the dealer and the bike, not 700 miles away.

 

[ElkSpyder]

Thanks ToyBoy aka Scotty.

Now the question remains as someone there alluded to - does the threadlocker on the factory fitted bolt cause a torquewrench to give and incorrect reading? I think the answer is: maybe.

That is what the dealer in Millington is thinking also.

 

[ElkSpyder]

Thanks for the thoughts everyone. Made it home to WI Saturday night after 12 hours of driving that uhaul. Taking the Spyder to Rob's Performance tomorrow. Now I'm not totally useless with a wrench in my hands but frankly I've had ALL service done at Rob's, including a 12,000 mile type service 1 week before this trip. So everything should have been ready for this ride. We found the front sprocket and the bolt along the roadway and I'm taking both of them to the dealer. Someone else on the ride asked me if I thought the accident on Thursday might have caused an issue that resulted in the bolt snapping. Not that I know and the bike road great for an additional 250 miles after the accident.

Will post an update as I get more info from Rob's and BRP.

Just an FYI this ride for St. Jude is one of the most emotional things I have ever done. The reception by the staff, and patients and their parents will ripe your heart open. The folks in Peoria who organise this ride have raised over 800,000 dollars for St. Jude in 4 years. Over 310,000, this year alone. So as bad as my trip turned out for me I'm damn glad I rode again this year, and will do so again next year.

 

[1-up]

Threadlocking liquids

Nope, the yellow red or blue threadlocker wo't change what the torque wrench reads. I am not a fan of the factory locker and use blue on all metal to metal threaded connections. I have personally seen the red threadlocker fail and the only cure was to drill and safety-wire the bolt. That seemed to do the trick.

On other items have always been wary using thread lock solutions.
Red threadlocker is not a permanent lock, a little bit of heat applied ditto for yellow, and blue and the bolt will be able to be loosened.
Drilling and safety wiring a bolt, is the best way.
Now you know why bolts on racing machines are always safety wired, esepcially bolts which retain lubricants.

 

[ElkSpyder]

Rob's has completed the repairs and I have the :spyder2: home.
Almost $2,000.00 dollars of damage from the accident. The rest was covered by warranty - my deductible. Alot faster than the 2 weeks quoted in TN.

 

[bruiser]

Thread locker

One thing you have to be cognizant of, thread lockers have an expiration date. As a service rep on specialized industrial equipment, I never rely on fasteners that come with thread locker since you never know how long that parts been on the shelf. You should never use lubricants on fasteners to be torqed unless it specifically calls for it. Reusing fasteners, nuts, bolts etc. is not a good idea either especially in vibration prone applications. And never ever reuse engine head bolts. Just my input...