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Front Sprocket BRP Bulletin

docdoru

Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).
 
Isn't there locktite or soms other thread locker already on, or should I pull mine out and add the thread locker and retighten just to be safe?
 
Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).

:2thumbs:
When i first seen your post i went right down to my garage, I put the torque wrench on 85 and the bolt [16mm] turned a half turn, their seams to be a rubber washer in front of a medal one, when i tighten the bolt it compressed the rubber a little. I guess it was a little lose.
Thanks for the heads up.
 
Is it the large bolt that holds the front sprocket on? Will the whole sprocket try to turn when you tighten it, if so how do you keep it from turning?
 
Is it the large bolt that holds the front sprocket on? Will the whole sprocket try to turn when you tighten it, if so how do you keep it from turning?


Yes large and only bolt 16mm. Left it in 1st gear. The only thing that
moved was the bolt [half turn] :thumbup:
 
Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).



Doc - THANKS for posting. Where did you find this, as I did not see it on the brp spyder site, anywhere, even in the Dec.2009 archives.:dontknow:


Quick Question: Since, the bulletin states to tighten this front sprocket screw at 10,000km, is there any harm in tightening it (or at least checking it well before that mileage) to be sure it is at between recommended torque settings of beteween 10 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft)??


PS if anyone has the official link to this information, please feel free to post it.
Thank you again Doc for posting this. This is key for all those who do their own maintenance.

Thanks again!
 
Yes large and only bolt 16mm. Left it in 1st gear. The only thing that
moved was the bolt [half turn] :thumbup:


Just to be sure to clarify, this is the 16mm bolt that needs to be torqued, correct? - Pointed to by the red arrow?

(original picture taken by Lamont - borrowed from his awesome tech gallery album to help clarify)
 
wow- 2 bulletins

I finally get my Spyder back on the road after 13 weeks in the shop and 2 bulletins appear right after (front sprocket and belt tension) I leave the shop.
Now I need to take it back?!:yikes:
Why is it I have a feeling that the service dept I had to take it to knows nothing about these bulletins?:dontknow:

:banghead:
 
I finally get my Spyder back on the road after 13 weeks in the shop and 2 bulletins appear right after (front sprocket and belt tension) I leave the shop.
Now I need to take it back?!:yikes:
Why is it I have a feeling that the service dept I had to take it to knows nothing about these bulletins?:dontknow:

:banghead:




Could you provide a link to the information (or the information inself) regarding the belt tension (or both bulletins?)? Is it for all models, etc...?

Thanks
PS Glad you have your spyder back though!
 
I checked the manual...

after seeing the front sprocket problems saw the torque was only 77 ft lbs I thought that wasn't very much torque. I have a mower with only 1/3 the horse power and the blade torque on it is 90 ft lbs. Granted it is two different machines... but when you consider the Spyder has about a 100 HP... 77 ft lbs isn't much on a bolt that is delivering all the power to the wheel.

Thanks Doc for the update on this issue. /Ken
 
after seeing the front sprocket problems saw the torque was only 77 ft lbs I thought that wasn't very much torque. I have a mower with only 1/3 the horse power and the blade torque on it is 90 ft lbs. Granted it is two different machines... but when you consider the Spyder has about a 100 HP... 77 ft lbs isn't much on a bolt that is delivering all the power to the wheel.

Thanks Doc for the update on this issue. /Ken
Bolt torque values are based on the size and grade of the bolt, and whether or not they are lubed. The torque of the shaft has nothing to do with it. To deal with the stresses imparted on the fastener by the machine, the engineer has to design it with the right size and quality of shaft, splines, pulley, and fastener.
 
Isn't there locktite or soms other thread locker already on, or should I pull mine out and add the thread locker and retighten just to be safe?
When using a high strength loctite (Red) when you go to remove a bolt you have to apply some heat this bolt is in a high heat area.Just my 2 cents :ani29: I would just re tourqe at oil changes :doorag:They are probaley using a anti seizing compound there such as never seize in case you have to remove it someday.
 
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