• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Spyder Blocks

K

kranslav

New member
I am looking for ideas on what I could put under my Spyder RTS tires for support ,so I can remove the motorcycle lift for easier oil changes? I would also like to warm it up while its up in the air for the service? Thanks
 
Not tellin ya what to do, but it'll heat up the oil and get it all circulated better if you take it out for a spin, rather than just let it sit and idle prior to oil change. I really like using my jack stands. They're cheap and easy, and available most anywhere that sells anything "automotive"
 
+1 for Jack Stands, though the ones I use I bought for my Pickup Truck, so they're the 6Ton with a 23in Max Height. Many Jack stands only lift 16=17inches, so I had to look around for some with the taller height. I also use the Add-on rubber jack stand pads that protect the paint on my A-arms and have four of them for the truck so I use three under the Spyder when doing maintenance, removing the Frunk, etc.
They're solid enough I've sat on the Spyder on the Jack Stands.
 
I'm with Mazo on this! ;) Running your Spyder while it's in the air (so only the rear wheel turns) is likely to upset the Nanny & bring on a Limp Mode condition. And touching the brake while it's up there won't help either! Any codes should go away after putting it back down & ryding for a bit (10-30metres maybe?) but it'll still be recorded as occurring & if it happens often enough, might create more issues. :dontknow:
 
Not too sure, but if you have a low enough oil drain pan, couldn't an oil change be done with the bike on the floor?
Yeah, I'm with the others - drain the oil after returning from a longish ride so it will be at max temp and holding the crud you want to drain out in suspension.
Starting and engine with the Spyder in the air....what can go wrong??
 
Lets see....

I do my oil changes on the ground after a Ryde. Hot oil is very thin and slashes all over so don't like to have the unit higher up. Now if you must the ATV/motorcycle lift and Jack stands are a good way to go.:thumbup:
 
Take one of the 5 gallon oil containers and cut a section out of the side. Use it as your drain pan. Really low to fit under the Spyder.
You can empty it into a larger container using the screw off lid.
 
Heck yeah, if you can fit a catch pan underneath, and then reach both of the plugs without lifting the Spyder, go for it. I've always had other things to do at the same time, so I lifted it onto jack stands.
 
I had some left-over "Link Levelers" from RV days. (Works the same as a piece of 2X6) and you can build them up if you want it higher than the first level. One level is just enough height to slide the jack underneath.

Levelers.JPG
 
My rhino ramps on a sloped driveway entrance give just the right clearance to get the front of the Spyder up about 4-6 inches and still have the bike level so everything is stable and the oil drains well. I usually drain when the oil is warm, (but preferably not too hot), so a shady evening after a ride gives things a chance to cool down a bit, and I can get the tools, pan, an old square of cardboard and a rug scrap to lay on. Get comfortable, take your time, let it drain a spell while you snake out the filter, and have a break with a cold drink while you clean up and reinstall the panels. Refill with the right amount oil as per your manual, and REMEMBER to REMOVE the OIL CATCH PAN BEFORE backing down off the ramps... It can catch on the front lip of the Spyder and make a **#? of a mess, not that I might know:mad:
 
Wildrice said:
$$ Expensive $$ plus you need 2 sets for 3 wheels--
Click to expand...

Yeah, well it is what it is. They are very light and easy to carry with built-in straps. They are a cradle so nothing's gonna roll anywhere with or without the PB on or if you are working on an unlevel surface (to a degree). I only needed 2 cuz I have ramps already and use one of them for the rear. If you think about it, if you bought 2 sets you could use them on your 4 wheelers too!
 
Hi AeroPilot,

Re: not that I might know

Anyone who has spent time working on their cars, motorcycles, airplanes, or whatevers have no idea what you are talking about.

:banghead::banghead::banghead:

Jerry Baumchen
 
Jacked it up with two old scissor type car jacks, two ton capacity. Slid the concrete blocks under the tires and let it down on them. I don't run it with it up like that. It is just not stabilized enough to work on it with it up in the air on just the jacks.

spyderjacks.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
In search of an Ultimate Trailer OHT3 designed for hauling Spyders - any input?
Replies
7
Views
390
Albec
Albec
BadMonk
What's the Best Way to jack/stand & Remove All Three Wheels at once?
Replies
14
Views
2K
BadMonk
BadMonk
J
How often should I apply grease to the drive belt?
Replies
17
Views
1K
Snoking1127
Snoking1127
B
2008 SM5 Hard shifting when warm - any ideas?
Replies
3
Views
157
Brianbreuk
B
V
Thinking of getting a floor jack - how hard is it to find the right place to lift?
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
vito1943
V
Back
Top