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Show Chrome Accessories trunk rack removal tips


Ed, thanks for providing a link to the Show Chrome Star Washer. This is perfect whether I decide to keep the rack (for added protection of the mounting surface) or to plug up the holes if I decide to remove it. And, they're cheaper with free shipping from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Show-Chrome-...r=8-7&keywords=star+washer+with+rubber+washer

4-231R-4_1_Starwasher%20with%20Rubber%20Washer%204%20Pack.jpg
 
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250000843, 250300039, 708300383, and 708300384 Are the part #s to order. For all the nuts bolts and strut you'll need.

Well, I ordered these and finally received them today. Any final words of advice before I try to figure out how to remove the passenger back rest?
 
Easy with the starwashers..........

I tossed mine because the bottom two holes for the rack are on a curved surface. Even with the rubber washer you can stress the trunk lid and no telling when a crack will appear. I got some fender washers and fit them to the underside of the lid's curve for extra support. We carry only items on the rack that don't weigh much. Clothing, bike cover, gloves and so on. As for the support arm giving out, I used finless Bob's idea of a spring from Ace Hardware to go around the lower shaft of the arm. Works great.
 
250000843, 250300039, 708300383, and 708300384 Are the part #s to order. For all the nuts bolts and strut you'll need.

Your solution interests me because my wife's new-to-her RT Limited came with the same trunk rack. I like to contribute to her happiness, so . . . I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.

Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required

So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either. :)
 
So, before I tear into it, does anyone have any advice on removing the passenger back rest on the RT to get at the trunk lid struts?

I'll wager there's a You Tube video that shows how to do just that. Thought I haven't looked, there's a high probability that there will be - it seems there's a video about how to do almost anything to a Spyder.
 
Your solution interests me because my wife's new-to-her RT Limited came with the same trunk rack. I like to contribute to her happiness, so . . . I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.

Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required

So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either. :)

That looks about right. The original parts list left out the two nuts (item 12 and 33) so I'm going to have to source those locally before completing the install.
 
I'll wager there's a You Tube video that shows how to do just that. Thought I haven't looked, there's a high probability that there will be - it seems there's a video about how to do almost anything to a Spyder.

I didn't find a video but found this earlier post from Firefly;

Remove 3 Torx from inside the rear trunk, then 2 smaller torx up above holding the plastic 'top' in place just need to be loosened.. then the whole thing will just slide up and out....
 
Do you remember which spring it is?

After you remove the strut, unscrew the end off the rod and take it all down to your local ACE Hardware store. In the fastener department there will be a bunch of drawers with coil springs. Go through them and pick one that will go over the rod but not over the not the large portion of the strut. When I found one I had to adjust it a little by stretching it a bit so it would apply a little more pressure to hold the lid up. It's a hand fit process, but it works very well when you get it all together. A new strut is kind of expensive.
 
After you remove the strut, unscrew the end off the rod and take it all down to your local ACE Hardware store. In the fastener department there will be a bunch of drawers with coil springs. Go through them and pick one that will go over the rod but not over the not the large portion of the strut. When I found one I had to adjust it a little by stretching it a bit so it would apply a little more pressure to hold the lid up. It's a hand fit process, but it works very well when you get it all together. A new strut is kind of expensive.

Thanks. Sounds like a great alternative to the new / additional strut.
 
Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required

Here's what it looks like with the passenger seat back removed (3 large and 2 small torx screws on the face of the trunk)
trunk lid strut-crop.jpg
 

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    trunk lid strut.jpg
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I didn't find a video but found this earlier post from Firefly;

Remove 3 Torx from inside the rear trunk, then 2 smaller torx up above holding the plastic 'top' in place just need to be loosened.. then the whole thing will just slide up and out....

Well rats! I was virtually certain there would be a video. Just goes to show how wrong I can be (very rarely however). :pray:
 
Well rats! I was virtually certain there would be a video. Just goes to show how wrong I can be (very rarely however). :pray:

Not saying there isn't one ... I just didn't look any more once I got the info I was looking for. It really is very simple - 5 torx screws accessible from the trunk and you're done.
 
After you remove the strut, unscrew the end off the rod and take it all down to your local ACE Hardware store. In the fastener department there will be a bunch of drawers with coil springs. Go through them and pick one that will go over the rod but not over the not the large portion of the strut. When I found one I had to adjust it a little by stretching it a bit so it would apply a little more pressure to hold the lid up. It's a hand fit process, but it works very well when you get it all together. A new strut is kind of expensive.

This worked really well. See adjacent pic.Trunk lid strut spring-2.jpg $1.00 fix for my less-than-spry trunk lid lift strut.
 
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