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Seat release tool

Zip

New member
After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.

seat latch C.jpg seat latch A.jpg seat latch B.jpg

Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.
 
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DIY TOOL FOR SEAT

:yes::yes:.....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.

View attachment 160897 View attachment 160899 View attachment 160900

Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.
:2thumbs::doorag: Push or pull? Looks like a pull system:dontknow: never had to fool with yet, key has worked fine:yes: but always handy to know. SS wire say from a wire welder? If so great I have some from my dads don't know the diameter, what about bailing wire? Been recommended by bunch of 2wheel buds.
 
:2thumbs::doorag: Push or pull? Looks like a pull system:dontknow: never had to fool with yet, key has worked fine:yes: but always handy to know. SS wire say from a wire welder? If so great I have some from my dads don't know the diameter, what about bailing wire? Been recommended by bunch of 2wheel buds.

Bailing wired old coat hanger
 
:yes::yes:.....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike :thumbup:

That's what I did put it on the seat and the front trunk
 
:yes::yes:.....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike :thumbup:


X2 on what Mike said.
 
After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.

View attachment 160897 View attachment 160899 View attachment 160900

Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.
Zip, great simple idea, MAN that is one well worn beadrider.
 
I just took a tie strap to the cable and hold the latch catch over and don't have to unlock anything. Took all of two minutes to do. Not the least bit worried about anybody stealing my gas or putting something in the tank. Do people even do that type thing anymore? They just rob you or carjack you.
 
BRP paid lots of people big bucks to engineer this machine. There is more signs of intelligence on this forum than anywhere else! Love this idea. I’ll be working on this tomorrow. Thanks for posting!
 
Great..!

Have seen mostly the permanent hidden pulls. Have seen folks take the pin out and have a non-locking seat. But always nice to have a tool that way you can help your fellow ryder. I just carry two keys...:thumbup: will make one up cause not many do..
 
I just took a tie strap to the cable and hold the latch catch over and don't have to unlock anything. Took all of two minutes to do. Not the least bit worried about anybody stealing my gas or putting something in the tank. Do people even do that type thing anymore? They just rob you or carjack you.

I went one step further and just removed the stud from the seat altogether. I think I'll make one of these releases for the frunk though. Thanks for the post
 
seat issue

I went one step further and just removed the stud from the seat altogether. I think I'll make one of these releases for the frunk though. Thanks for the post
Actually that " STUD " serves another function .... and this I learned from someone else's Bad experience ..... that Stud is a locator for EXACTLY where the seat pan will Position ... when it is down. Since the for and aft movement of the seat can be adjusted .... without that STUD, the seat can actually slide forward .....if this occurs ( and I know it can ) your seat will rub on your gas tank ( on an RT ) .....this can and will damage the paint ....... just a heads - up ........... Mike ......PS what I did on mine was , I wired the LATCH mechanism so it wasn't fully closed ..... It will catch when I close he seat and it stays down ....however a slight upward tug on the seat flap will release it ........ Mike :thumbup:
 
Made a permanent release on our RT for the seat and the frunk. One of the first things I did was make a release for the frunk on the F3L.
 
BRP should be embarrassed........

BRP paid lots of people big bucks to engineer this machine. There is more signs of intelligence on this forum than anywhere else! Love this idea. I’ll be working on this tomorrow. Thanks for posting!

But they're not. nojoke
 
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