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Seat release tool

After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.

View attachment 160897 View attachment 160899 View attachment 160900

Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.
How long is that? About 6"?
 
Actually that " STUD " serves another function .... and this I learned from someone else's Bad experience ..... that Stud is a locator for EXACTLY where the seat pan will Position ... when it is down. Since the for and aft movement of the seat can be adjusted .... without that STUD, the seat can actually slide forward .....if this occurs ( and I know it can ) your seat will rub on your gas tank ( on an RT ) .....this can and will damage the paint ....... just a heads - up ........... Mike ......PS what I did on mine was , I wired the LATCH mechanism so it wasn't fully closed ..... It will catch when I close he seat and it stays down ....however a slight upward tug on the seat flap will release it ........ Mike :thumbup:

I changed my thinking based on your advice Mike:thumbup: I put the stud back in and just tied the latch mechanism back. Never even considered that gthe stud holds the alignment of the seat.:bowdown:
 
Same idea but more permanent.
Ditto. I had some 14 gauge solid house wire so I used that. Works well, but doesn't need to be that heavy. I had to drill a hole in that metal piece where the OEM cable terminates, because the existing hole wasn't big enough for that large a wire.

Emerg seat release.jpg
 
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l don't remember the part # off hand but I replaced the gas strut on my seat with a stronger one. I believe Mike, BlueKnight911, was the one who gave us the part # one time. It works great and can lift the seat with my helmet and jacket on it.

It can be a pain to find just the right spot but I would strongly suggest you all go through the process of getting the stud positioned just right so it goes in and out of the latch smoothly. When it's in the right spot, and with the stronger strut, as soon as I turn the key to unlock the seat it rises up on its own! :thumbup:
 
WIRE TOO FAT

Ditto. I had some 14 gauge solid house wire so I used that. Works well, but doesn't need to be that heavy. I had to drill a hole in that metal piece where the OEM cable terminates, because the existing hole wasn't big enough for that large a wire.

View attachment 161751
I'm betting it would have fit without the insulation :dontknow: ....... Mike
 
:yes::yes:.....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike :thumbup:

X 3 on what Mike says, and adding that Zip's idea is also excellent. Whatever works :thumbup:
 
I went one step further and just removed the stud from the seat altogether. I think I'll make one of these releases for the frunk though. Thanks for the post

Does your seat stay in the down position when you aren't on it with the locking stud missing ..? I like the idea but was just curious...
Thanks
 
After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.

View attachment 160897 View attachment 160899 View attachment 160900

Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.

I suppose it would be easier on the Spyder than a .45 slug. :joke:

Thanks for the tip!
 
Stud

Actually that " STUD " serves another function .... and this I learned from someone else's Bad experience ..... that Stud is a locator for EXACTLY where the seat pan will Position ... when it is down. Since the for and aft movement of the seat can be adjusted .... without that STUD, the seat can actually slide forward .....if this occurs ( and I know it can ) your seat will rub on your gas tank ( on an RT ) .....this can and will damage the paint ....... just a heads - up ........... Mike ......PS what I did on mine was , I wired the LATCH mechanism so it wasn't fully closed ..... It will catch when I close he seat and it stays down ....however a slight upward tug on the seat flap will release it ........ Mike :thumbup:
I just ground the nub off of the end of the stud. The stud stays there to keep the seat positioned, but doesn't require a pull wire or key cable. Just lift the seat.
 
My Cable Release

Was inspired by Zip, and had a look in my junk drawers. I found this steel cable that had an end on it already, so I cut and crimped it to come up with this:
Cable Seat Release.jpg
Works like a charm!;)

Neil
 
Does your seat stay in the down position when you aren't on it with the locking stud missing ..? I like the idea but was just curious...
Thanks
Not if you use one of these! Sachs SG359011 gas strut.

31xZMhBLOHL.jpg
This strut holds my seat up even when my helmet and jacket are on it, or if my back seat luggage on it! When there's nothing on the seat and I turn the key, a little jiggle and the seat flies up! :clap:
 
PAST INFO POST

I just ground the nub off of the end of the stud. The stud stays there to keep the seat positioned, but doesn't require a pull wire or key cable. Just lift the seat.
:yes::yes:....I'm glad you found that old post ...that OEM POST has more than one reason for being there :clap:..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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