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SE6 engine hesitation while upshifting

I've noticed in the roughly 700 miles on my new Spyder that when I upshift (+) there is a 1/2 second loss of engine power. This loss causes my head slightly lean forward then flip back. This does not occur when downshifting (-). Not sounding prissy but I'm new to Spyders and don't have much experience with this and want to know if its normal.

Low RPM most likely..my 2012 RS will do the same thing. I called it "taking a breath" instead because that's what it feels like. Some days it's like art shifting a spyder...mostly when shifting to 2nd or 3rd for me. Try adjusting your approach to the shifting gears.

This is just the way my spyder rides to me guys, not saying they all do. IMHO.

Rickp


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Your 998 isn't designed for low-rpm operation. Most of the shifting for the Vee-Twins seems to start at 5,000 rpm.
The 1330s will happily shift at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm ranges. nojoke

If the oil level is fine, and you're not letting go of the throttle on the upshifts: you might have a problem with either the shifting mechanism itself, or perhaps the gear position sensor... :dontknow:

I'd let a dealer look at it! :thumbup:
 
AND THE WINNER IS......

4000 RPMs :yes:

I just took my bike out in 32* weather and shifted (SE6) only at 4000 RPMs and the engine/tranny shifted smoothly with little engine retarding noticed! I then tested my previous shifting pattern and noticed I must have been shifting at 2500-3500 because the engine/tranny was causing my head to flip from the engine retarding to allow the trannny (SE6) to do its thing.

On another note I noticed my frunk was not locking so I adjusted the bolt and realized the bolt needed an SAE and not metric wrench. I thought those north of civilization used metric? Do they not understand the utter confusion this causes us south of the border?:banghead:
 
SHIFTING AND HESITATION

4000 RPMs :yes:

I just took my bike out in 32* weather and shifted (SE6) only at 4000 RPMs and the engine/tranny shifted smoothly with little engine retarding noticed! I then tested my previous shifting pattern and noticed I must have been shifting at 2500-3500 because the engine/tranny was causing my head to flip from the engine retarding to allow the trannny (SE6) to do its thing.

On another note I noticed my frunk was not locking so I adjusted the bolt and realized the bolt needed an SAE and not metric wrench. I thought those north of civilization used metric? Do they not understand the utter confusion this causes us south of the border?:banghead:
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: .....Imho ..... you need a lot more miles to get this figured out ..... I have the same engine and trans as you, and mine shifts the same at 2500 rpm's as it does at 4000 rpm's and other rpm's ...... the engine retarding thing ...occurs whenever you shift ..... at whatever rpm's you shift at ...... not just certain rpm's...... If you are concerned about every little burp ..... sell the Spyder now before you go crazy .... because Spyders burp a lot,............seriously - just enjoy it , and save the worries for the ORANGE SCREEN OF DEATH :gaah:....which I hope you never encounter .................. Mike :thumbup:
 
Boy, you guys are awesome. I am a newbie on a motorcycle. Thank you. I realize that I shift from 3000 to 3500 rpms. I was taking it as a consideration of driving a stick shift on a car. I definitely will test it at the 4000rpms. I will make sure that I will shift "+" when I hit around the 3500 to 4000 rpms. Besides, it actually does run smooth when I do this. When I release my throttle and then shift "+" I did felt the hesitation.

Anyways, thank you gentleman. Let me know if I am right or not. Guidance from the wise is greatly appreciated.
 
Just wondering, do you hold the paddle in until it shifts or give it a quick tap? I had an RSS SE5 that
used to "stumble" if you held the paddle in a little too long, this happened after I mastered not throttling off
to change gear lolol
 
Just wondering, do you hold the paddle in until it shifts or give it a quick tap? I had an RSS SE5 that
used to "stumble" if you held the paddle in a little too long, this happened after I mastered not throttling off
to change gear lolol

A quick "snap". Tested my theory again today, 2500-3500 vs 4000. 4000 was again the winner:yes:. My thoughts
 
I've noticed in the roughly 700 miles on my new Spyder that when I upshift (+) there is a 1/2 second loss of engine power. This loss causes my head slightly lean forward then flip back. This does not occur when downshifting (-). Not sounding prissy but I'm new to Spyders and don't have much experience with this and want to know if its normal.

I've had this identical problem shifting into 2nd gear (only) on my 2015 F3's SE6. I can't explain it but since I've had the ECM update from Monster Fuel the problem has disappeared. It is an annoying problem causing the rider to lurch forward & then snapped back again after the power returns. Might wanna try the ECM upgrade--I really like it performance wise plus my 2nd gear shift delay has disappeared.
Darrell
 
I've noticed in the roughly 700 miles on my new Spyder that when I upshift (+) there is a 1/2 second loss of engine power. This loss causes my head slightly lean forward then flip back. This does not occur when downshifting (-). Not sounding prissy but I'm new to Spyders and don't have much experience with this and want to know if its normal.

I had this same delay shifting into 2nd gear 2015 F3's SE6. At the same time I upgraded the ECM & a few other things. problem was solved. then I wanted to see if my oil & trans magnetic oil drain plugs had any metal filings allowing 2 quarts of oil to drain by in the process--both drain plugs were clean--free of any metal filings.. After I replaced 1 quart of Oil I used the recommended oil level procedure of letting it idle for 2 fan cycles after a warm up ride & checked the oil level 2 min later to compensate for the dry sump oil return & had the dipstick show full.
Upon completing this recommended oil level check procedure my 2nd gear delay returned. Then I went back to my old procedure of filling the oil to the full level after the engine cooled down a bit. This required me to add one (1) more quart of oil to reach the full dot level. Retesting the 2nd gear shift delay disappeared again. I'm not blowing oil out of the exhaust or dipstick tube. My initial oil change/filter required a full 6 quarts of oil.
This is not the procedure most spyder owners would recommend but it really did solve my 2nd gear shift delay problem. At 1st I thought it was the ECM reflash upgrade but it was just the result of performing 2 procedures at the same time. The higher level oil solved the shift delay problem on my F3's.
Darrell
 
I had this same delay shifting into 2nd gear 2015 F3's SE6. At the same time I upgraded the ECM & a few other things. problem was solved. then I wanted to see if my oil & trans magnetic oil drain plugs had any metal filings allowing 2 quarts of oil to drain by in the process--both drain plugs were clean--free of any metal filings.. After I replaced 1 quart of Oil I used the recommended oil level procedure of letting it idle for 2 fan cycles after a warm up ride & checked the oil level 2 min later to compensate for the dry sump oil return & had the dipstick show full.
Upon completing this recommended oil level check procedure my 2nd gear delay returned. Then I went back to my old procedure of filling the oil to the full level after the engine cooled down a bit. This required me to add one (1) more quart of oil to reach the full dot level. Retesting the 2nd gear shift delay disappeared again. I'm not blowing oil out of the exhaust or dipstick tube. My initial oil change/filter required a full 6 quarts of oil.
This is not the procedure most spyder owners would recommend but it really did solve my 2nd gear shift delay problem. At 1st I thought it was the ECM reflash upgrade but it was just the result of performing 2 procedures at the same time. The higher level oil solved the shift delay problem on my F3's.
Darrell

In the last 9 months of buying my new F3s and completing 18,000 miles this is what I found.
Shifting from 1st to 2nd around 2500 RPM while "slowing" accelerating is the best way to shift. (out of 1st)
Oil level can not be "topped off" because as I found out it will flow up and out of the filler tube and smoke.
I "think" its just the bikes personality and unsolvable but since I have had no other issues I'm happy.
Thanks for the PM.....your knowledge is noted. nojoke
 
Oil level can not be "topped off" because as I found out it will flow up and out of the filler tube and smoke.
I "think" its just the bikes personality and unsolvable but since I have had no other issues I'm happy.
Thanks for the PM.....your knowledge is noted. nojoke

I'm beginning to believe that several Spyders do have their own personality. Everyone on this forum does an oil change/filter using 5 quarts of oil. I need 6 quarts of oil & that doesn't even bring the oil level near the very top bubble on the oil dipstick:yikes:. But as you've said--as long as it works-I'm happy.
Darrell
 
2013 RTL vs 2013 F3T Shifting

Since we're discussing shifting, I'm still trying to find the sweet rpm shift point. I've got a little over 2K miles on it and I think I'm getting there. However is it common to hear it when it makes the shift? Sometimes I can a clunk sound when I am either up or down shifting. It almost sounds like when shifting from neutral to 1st on the RTL only not as bad. Maybe it's more pronounced because I don't have all the tupperware. Oil level is OK by the way.
 
SHIFTING

Since we're discussing shifting, I'm still trying to find the sweet rpm shift point. I've got a little over 2K miles on it and I think I'm getting there. However is it common to hear it when it makes the shift? Sometimes I can a clunk sound when I am either up or down shifting. It almost sounds like when shifting from neutral to 1st on the RTL only not as bad. Maybe it's more pronounced because I don't have all the tupperware. Oil level is OK by the way.
Friend , I have Drag Raced with an SE - trans 1330 - Spyder .... Full throttle & shift at 6500 rpm ..... ANNNNNNNNND don't back off the throttle until you pass the finish line :yes::yes::yes:........... I have not experienced any hesitation .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Friend , I have Drag Raced with an SE - trans 1330 - Spyder .... Full throttle & shift at 6500 rpm ..... ANNNNNNNNND don't back off the throttle until you pass the finish line :yes::yes::yes:........... I have not experienced any hesitation .... Mike :thumbup:

Drag racing? :bowdown:

Damn....We are talking about normal every day riding.nojoke
 
HUH !

Drag racing? :bowdown:

Damn....We are talking about normal every day riding.nojoke
YOU are talking about " normal everyday riding " ....... my reference to " Drag Racing " was for informational purposes , I believe that " Knowledge " is important. Annnnnnnnd the question about " how fast are Spyders " has been asked about a Gazillion times here ..... PS my Drag Racing was done on certified sanctioned Racing tracks ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
That is a good question. I notice that when I held the throttle and punch the (+) than the transmission is smooth. Since, I have a Semi-automatic should I just let up the throttle than shift or should I just hold the throttle and punch the (+)?

If you are not aware of this "sticky" on the "Spyder General Discussion Thread" you might want to check it out. It would have told you not to roll off the throttle when shifting.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
 
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