Screen lit up with Ign, then went blank with start - HELP PLEASE?!

[ChrisW]

The wife's 2014 RT, I turned on the bike, the power came on the screen, I pushed the button to get to the start mode. And then the screen went BLANK!!! Nothing happened. So I plugged the trickle charger back in and the green light just blinks green, not a solid green as it normally does. What do I need to do and where on the bike to start???? Oh, please help, she does NOT look happy...

 

[bikerchris1270]

The wife's 2014 RT, I turned on the bike, the power came on the screen, I pushed the button to get to the start mode. And then the screen went BLANK!!! Nothing happened. So I plugged the trickle charger back in and the green light just blinks green, not a solid green as it normally does. What do I need to do and where on the bike to start???? Oh, please help, she does NOT look happy...

I’m thinking checking the battery connections are tight and clean.
Check Condition and age of battery.

 

[FrogmanDave]

Sounds like to me the battery is too low for the trickle charger to start charging it. You are going to have to use some other form of charge to get it back high enough for the trickle to do it's thing. Testing the voltage would be your best option so you know what is going on.

 

[ChrisW]

OK the battery is the one that came with the bike. I connected a battery charger to it, and it showed RED, it then went to full charge and so I turned on the key, oh **** everything started to blink rapidly, so I turned it off. I can't pull the battery out.

What battery should I get???

 

[Knizar]

My $.02 is to find that EXACT replacement battery, if you got 9 years out of it! :2thumbs: Bill

 

[ChrisW]

Where do you find the DATE on the battery so I can buy a new one with a good date.

My $.02 is to find that EXACT replacement battery, if you got 9 years out of it! :2thumbs: Bill

Looking for this one, "Yuasa AGM Motorcycle Battery 12V 22.1Ah 350A" where and how do I find a date on the battery?

 

[Isopedella]

Have you completed the remove terminals, clean and refit suggestion?

I’m thinking checking the battery connections are tight and clean.
Condition and age of battery.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Looking for this one, "Yuasa AGM Motorcycle Battery 12V 22.1Ah 350A" where and how do I find a date on the battery?

Get a battery with -BS on the end of the part #. That means it comes with the electrolyte in a separate bottle which you add yourself. Follow instructions closely and charge the battery at only 2 or 3 amps for several hours, even overnight. Is your trickle charger actually a maintainer? If not, pitch it in the trash and buy a 2 or 3 amp charger/maintainer. By adding the electrolyte yourself the battery will have been dry from time of manufacture so no deterioration will have taken place. That means the manufacture date is immaterial so don't worry about it. Actually, what really matters is how long it has been since the initial charge. If the battery supplier just now charged it, and charged it correctly, you'll be OK.

 

[Knizar]

Get a battery with -BS on the end of the part #. That means it comes with the electrolyte in a separate bottle which you add yourself. Follow instructions closely and charge the battery at only 2 or 3 amps for several hours, even overnight. Is your trickle charger actually a maintainer? If not, pitch it in the trash and buy a 2 or 3 amp charger/maintainer. By adding the electrolyte yourself the battery will have been dry from time of manufacture so no deterioration will have taken place. That means the manufacture date is immaterial so don't worry about it. Actually, what really matters is how long it has been since the initial charge. If the battery supplier just now charged it, and charged it correctly, you'll be OK.

IMS, your talking lead-acid and Chris is thinking AGM (gell)

 

[ChrisW]

This is what is in the bike now, Yuasa YTX24HL (M7250H) I want an AGM (gel) type

 

[Bfromla]

Some places might put a sticker on the battery, (maybe some permanent marker type)**MAYBE**& that’s point of sale at that; but nothing stamped on- that I’m aware of.

 

[DGoebel]

Lamonster (our host and founder) Garage carries a good battery.

https://www.lamonstergarage.com/battery-1/

Several actually.

 

[Peter Aawen]

IMS, your talking lead-acid and Chris is thinking AGM (gell)

No he's not, Knizar.

Those Yuasa AGM batteries that fit our Spyders come either with the electrolyte already added, in which case you have no idea how long it's been in there &/or how long the battery has been sitting around deteriorating, probably with little or no charge in it - something that's not good for any battery; or if you get a replacement Yuasa AGM battery that fits/matches the part number only with that 'BS' on the end of it, then that signifies that it has a bottle of electrolyte with it, in which case you (or your retailer, IF you trust them! ) can add the electrolyte when you're ready to use the battery and not before; then you let it do it's 'settle the electrolyte' time; follow that with 8 hours on the charger/maintainer to charge the battery properly (they need AT LEAST 8 hours on a proper charger/maintainer to get a full, deep charge - anything less means a shorter battery life expectancy!) and then you can install it, KNOWING that the Yuasa battery you just installed is fresh, freshly charged properly, and ready to go for a long and healthy battery working life!! hyea:

This is what is in the bike now, Yuasa YTX24HL (M7250H) I want an AGM (gel) type

That battery in the bike now IS an AGM battery Chris, it's just old & flat; and you've probably been hiding its gradual death/failure by not regularly riding it for 30 plus minutes, preferably at Hwy speeds; and leaving it on a trickle charger for too long between rides instead of only occasionally putting it on a proper charger/maintainer! :lecturef_smilie:

Leaving any battery on a trickle charger beyond it reaching full charge IS NOT A GOOD THING!!! :gaah: . It'll kill them pretty quickly, but it might leave a 'surface charge' with no real depth of charge to back it up, in which case it'll generally do exactly what you've described; or worse, the surface charge might be juuust enough charge to let you start your vehicle and leave home.... but then the vehicle's charging system won't be able to recharge what is essentially a 'dead battery', so if you stop anywhere, that's it, no further starts, and you're stuck away from home with a dead flat battery, one that it's likely even a jump start won't help! :banghead:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

IMS, your talking lead-acid and Chris is thinking AGM (gell)

From the Yuasa web site. https://www.yuasabatteries.com/batteries/powersports-batteries/agm-maintenance-free-batteries/

Long Lifespan
Because of its lead calcium design, the AGM battery will hold its specific gravity more than three times longer than conventional lead antimony types. And to remain factory-fresh the AGM battery is shipped dry along with its own pack of high-gravity acid that’s added at the time of installation.

(Highlight added)

In case you were thinking otherwise the 'G' means glass, not gel. AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat

Also from Yuasa website. https://www.yuasabatteries.com/batteries/powersports-batteries/agm-maintenance-free-batteries/

How Batteries Leave the Factory

Factory Activated (FA) – the battery is filled with electrolyte, sealed and charged at the factory. These batteries if not used within a month must be maintained. If the voltage drops below 12.4 these batteries must be boosted up to full charge.

Bottle Supplied (BS) – dry AGM batteries are shipped with the electrolyte stored in a plastic container. The battery is filled with electrolyte from the container when it’s ready to be activated. AGM dry batteries have a shelf life of 5 years from the manufacturer as long as they remain sealed. A proper seal for AGM batteries means a foil sealing strip is in place on the battery without damage or flaw. Once a battery is unsealed, it should be activated, charged, and installed. If the battery is unsealed, the plates will begin to oxidize, making it more difficult to charge later.


Activating an AGM battery (BS) is simple and differs from the activation of a Conventional battery. Non-activated AGM batteries can be stored for long periods of time as long as they are kept in a cool, dry place and out of direct sunlight.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

In case your worried about " filling the battery with ACID " ..... don't worry .... they make doing it FOOL-PROOF , you CAN'T spill any etc. ......follow Peter's / IMF's advice .....Mike ......And add Star washers to the terminals .....

 

[vulkus]

What you describe, right down to the flashing lights/switches is exactly what happened to me. Battery showed 12 odd volts at rest, but when I switched the ignition on it showed 6 volts.
I bought a new battery, installed it and it fired up right away with no issues. My battery was slowly degrading, as I'd go to start it and the screen would reboot during start up. My old battery was 8 years old.

 

[Knizar]

From the Yuasa web site. https://www.yuasabatteries.com/batteries/powersports-batteries/agm-maintenance-free-batteries/



(Highlight added)

In case you were thinking otherwise the 'G' means glass, not gel. AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat

Also from Yuasa website. https://www.yuasabatteries.com/batteries/powersports-batteries/agm-maintenance-free-batteries/

I stand corrected, thank you IMS, still learning. :read: Bill:thumbup:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I stand corrected, thank you IMS, still learning. :read: Bill:thumbup:

You're welcome. Quite OK to still be learning! I have no idea how long AGM batteries existed before I finally learned what their difference was.

 

[GrayRyder]

No he's not, Knizar.

Those Yuasa AGM batteries that fit our Spyders come either with the electrolyte already added, in which case you have no idea how long it's been in there &/or how long the battery has been sitting around deteriorating, probably with little or no charge in it - something that's not good for any battery; or if you get a replacement Yuasa AGM battery that fits/matches the part number only with that 'BS' on the end of it, then that signifies that it has a bottle of electrolyte with it, in which case you (or your retailer, IF you trust them! ) can add the electrolyte when you're ready to use the battery and not before; then you let it do it's 'settle the electrolyte' time; follow that with 8 hours on the charger/maintainer to charge the battery properly (they need AT LEAST 8 hours on a proper charger/maintainer to get a full, deep charge - anything less means a shorter battery life expectancy!) and then you can install it, KNOWING that the Yuasa battery you just installed is fresh, freshly charged properly, and ready to go for a long and healthy battery working life!! hyea:



That battery in the bike now IS an AGM battery Chris, it's just old & flat; and you've probably been hiding its gradual death/failure by not regularly riding it for 30 plus minutes, preferably at Hwy speeds; and leaving it on a trickle charger for too long between rides instead of only occasionally putting it on a proper charger/maintainer! :lecturef_smilie:

Leaving any battery on a trickle charger beyond it reaching full charge IS NOT A GOOD THING!!! :gaah: . It'll kill them pretty quickly, but it might leave a 'surface charge' with no real depth of charge to back it up, in which case it'll generally do exactly what you've described; or worse, the surface charge might be juuust enough charge to let you start your vehicle and leave home.... but then the vehicle's charging system won't be able to recharge what is essentially a 'dead battery', so if you stop anywhere, that's it, no further starts, and you're stuck away from home with a dead flat battery, one that it's likely even a jump start won't help! :banghead:

So, just to be clear, a Battery Tender is a "proper" charger/maintainer as opposed to one that doesn't stop charging when the battery is fully charged?

 

[ChrisW]

OK all, what SIZE battery do I have and what should I be looking for? and where? HELP as I can't find one, Walmart may have one but there is no CCA info on their batteries.