PMK
Active member
Of those listed, go with the assembly lube
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Rust dust
- Thread starter billybovine
- Start date
Of those listed, go with the assembly lube
Bottomline2000
New member
the shop charged me 6.5 hours to replace my pulley. It took them about 3 working days to get my old pulley off. We more than had a discussion about that bolt being properly torqued which is why i marked the bolt. I had no intentions of breaking the tension on it to check the torque. My repair was so involved they had to have a 3rd party create a jig to get the old pulley off. It was a complete *****show which all started with them installing my tire incorrectly. They reduced my charge to 4hrs, but I won't let them touch my spyder again. You can even see the threads in my new pulley which was used to mock up the tool to remove the old one. Can't make this kind of stuff up.
Bottomline2000
New member
The purpose of the lube is to reduce the chance of the metals fretting. I'm not sure how freely it installs. The constant pressure from the output shaft against the pulley will eventually wear down the pulley(softer metal). The moly paste is there to act as a protective barrier between the metals and reduce the chance of the pulley breaking down and creating the red dust.
PMK
Active member
Flat rate charges never anticipate anything more than typical repair with no side issues or hidden damages. Additional time gets charged when issues arise. Thing is did the charge at time and materials or offer up an estimate / quote and flat rate off of that? If costs exceeded that estimate, they would likely have revised it up.
PMK
Active member
Pulley is a slip fit with clean splines on pulley and on gearbox shaft. Simple almost no effort slides on once aligned.
billybovine
Active member
I am not happy that I have this issue. But not really that upset, Just a pain in the butt inconvenient. I will trailer it to the dealer. 1 1/2 hours one way. Wait for it to be fixed and then take it home. That is if everything goes alright. If they decide that a new pulley is not needed. I will buy a pulley and swap it out next year when the next service is needed. It's like a couple months ago I needed new rear wheel. They should have machined the wheel correctly to start with. But they did not. So fixed under warranty. But that was worse because they would not order a new wheel under my say so. That made for a double trip. One to drop it off. Then they decided I needed a new wheel. Second trip to pick it up.
troop
Well-known member
Hell .. If they decide that a new pulley is not needed, why not buy it on your dime and have them install it why it's apart?
PMK
Active member
Do not use Moly Grease. Use Moly Paste. As for the bolt, the reason for not reusing it is on account of the pre applied threadlocker which is considered one time use. The bolts are not torque to yield so structurally they are fine. Be aware that on line suppliers are still selling the old style bolt / washer setup. Last week on the FB group a person showed his recently replaced bolt that he purchased on line and it was the older type.
PinkRosePetal
New member
The official line is that the bolt is one use only but if it hasn't been overtightened it can be used again. The original locking compound will be damaged so you'll need to replace that if you feel it's important.
Most importantly you must torque the bolt to at least the updated torque, preferably a little more imho. You need to know your torque wrench is accurate, if it's old or of questionable origin it could easily be inaccurate by 10% - not good.
PMK
Active member
Sure, if cost is no object that is a good plan. If there is no wear, replacement seems unwarranted but whatever works.
Taking that idea a step further, better to not wait until failure has begun by witnessing red dust, which is indicative the pulley has worn and should not be reinstalled, why not remove the pulley prior to experiencing any concerns, inspect, lube, reinstall and worry less. Just repeat again for inspection and lube at the interval you deem applicable.
PinkRosePetal
New member
To the original poster... If your sprocket is only lightly worn, ie. after cleaning up is slips back onto the shaft nicely with little play then imho it's better to use it rather than fit a replacement. The reason is that the contact surface of the sprocket against the flange of the shaft is small (marginal imo and part of the original issue.). These contact surfaces will be worn because of their movement against each other but on the plus side they are worn into each other and have good contact so will fit well upon tightening.
If using a new sprocket the contact surface with the shaft flange will be smaller because the slightly worn part of the shaft will not make contact with the new sprocket. The new contact area will be smaller diameter and consequently have less surface area to carry the end load. I'm sure BRP have taken this into account because the updated sprocket is machined with a wider contact surface so as to be better usable on a worn shaft and also provide a larger contact area on a new shaft.
Important! Be sure when the sprocket is refitted that the shaft end is sufficiently recessed in the sprocket that the bolt flange cannot come into contact with it when fully tightened.
If using a new sprocket the contact surface with the shaft flange will be smaller because the slightly worn part of the shaft will not make contact with the new sprocket. The new contact area will be smaller diameter and consequently have less surface area to carry the end load. I'm sure BRP have taken this into account because the updated sprocket is machined with a wider contact surface so as to be better usable on a worn shaft and also provide a larger contact area on a new shaft.
Important! Be sure when the sprocket is refitted that the shaft end is sufficiently recessed in the sprocket that the bolt flange cannot come into contact with it when fully tightened.
RICZ
New member
Sorry, I did mean paste and not grease. From what I'm reading here, the bolts CAN be reused if it hadn't been over torqued. Would it be good to take the bolt to a wire wheel and remove the old thread locker? Is a thread locker recommended when re-assembling. And finally, is the new torque 110 ft-lbs
jcthorne
Well-known member
The specified torque values are for a new bolt with the thread lock compound already applied. Reusing a bolt with liquid thread lock will result in an over torque situation if you use the specified torque value. Bolts break when this is done and hence the requirement to replace the bolt as a one time use item. There is no specified torque value for a reused bolt with liquid lock compound applied.
PinkRosePetal
New member
Yes but I think you'll find that the thread lock compound addition to the torque is negligible. I don't know the lubrication properties of the dried lock compound comparative to a wet compound so can't comment on that.
The bolt is well up to withstanding the tension. If you look up tables for a bolt of that rating using that thread you'll find there's plenty of safety margin.
As I've mention before, I use a lubricated bolt and pull it to 115. Works for me but everyone needs to make there own decisions based on what they are comfortable with. Bearing in mind, of course, that they have a failure based on BRP recommendations therefore if it's not to be a repeat failure something other is required as a solution.
I've pulled a lubricated sprocket bolt until I felt it yield so I know where I am safe torque wise.
PMK
Active member
FWIW, if run down torque is measured then subtracted from specified torque, you arrive at free running torque. Downside though is liquid threadlocker can act as a lubricant in some instances which can alter true force applied vs torque applied.
On fasteners I often use, not on Spyders, run down must be measured on locknuts, then added to specified torques.
Similar threads
